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1:1 Scale TAB and SLOT KITS LIST
1:1 Scale Tab-and-Slot HOUSE and selected 1:48 VILLAGE KITS
and other Greenleaf/Corona Concepts Products
Adams --Greenleaf
Alexandria --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Allison --Artply
Alpine --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
and also CLICK HERE, and the interior, CLICK HERE
Annie Dream Dollhouse --Arrow
Arthur --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Ashley --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Aster Cottage --Corona Concepts
Barrington --Artply
Bayberry Cottage --Dura-craft
The front CLICK HERE
and the interior CLICK HERE
and see CLICK HERE
Beacon Hill --Greenleaf
Beaumont --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Bellingham Farm House --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Big Dream House -- Arrow
Black Forest (bird feeder) --Greenleaf
Bobbi --Artply
Brimbles Mercantile --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Brittany --Houseworks shell
Brookfield --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Brookwood --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
and see CLICK HERE
Buttercup --Corona Concepts
Cambridge --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Cambridge --Whitney
Canterbury --Greenleaf
Cape Cod --Arrow
Cape Cod --G. Pierce Toys/Kozbro
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
Cape Cod --Skilcraft
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE and see CLICK HERE
Carlson's Old Time Store --American Craft Products
Chantilly --Greenleaf
Charleston --Greenleaf
Chateau --Dura-craft
Chatham --Corona Concepts
photograph search in progress
Chelsea --Dura-craft
Cheltenham --Corona
Colonial --Skilcraft
Colonial 300 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Colonial Dream House --Arrow
Columbian --Dura-craft
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
Cottonwood (bird house) --Greenleaf
Country Estate --G. Pierce Toys/Kozbro
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Country Estate --LeeWards
Country Home --Arrow
Country House ("My Doll House") --Skilcraft
Country House --Greenleaf
Country Manor --Skilcraft
Country Manor Dream House --Arrow
Coventry Cottage --Greenleaf
Craftsman Bungalow --Fantasy Craft, rare
Creekside Cabin --Corona Concepts
Crestview --Dura-craft
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE and see CLICK HERE
Deluxe Tudor Dream House --Arrow
Diana --Greenleaf
Dream House --Arrow
Edison --Corona Concepts
Eight Room House --Arrow
Emerson Row --Greenleaf
Fairfield -- Greenleaf 1:24 scale
Farmhouse 500 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Farmhouse 505 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Fernbrook --Artply (thumbnail photo)
Firehouse & Bandstand --Greenleaf 1/4 scale
Four-in-One --Artply
Franklin --Artply/Greenleaf
Garfield --Greenleaf
General Store --Woodline Products
Glencroft --Greenleaf
Gloucester --Corona Concepts, front-opening
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
Granville --Artply
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Greenhouse --Greenleaf
Greenleaf Town --Greenleaf 1/4 scale town
Greenleaf Village --Greenleaf 1/4 scale town
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Harrison --Greenleaf
Haunted House --Dura-craft
Haunted House --Greenleaf
Haunted House --Whitney
Heart Arbor --Greenleaf
Heritage --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Hickory Ridge Cabin --Dura-craft
Highland --Artply
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Hillsdale --Dura-craft
Honeymoon Cottage --Petite Dreams
Houseboat --Corona Concepts
Imperial Dream House --Arrow
photograph search in progress
Jefferson --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Lafayette --Dura-craft
Laurel --Corona Concepts
Lily --Corona Concepts
Linfield --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Lodge (bird house) --Greenleaf
Lodgepole (bird feeder) --Greenleaf
Madison --Dura-craft
Madison --Greenleaf
Magnolia --Corona Concepts
CLICK HERE and see the building blog CLICK HERE
Manchester Country House --Dura-craft
Marquam Hill Mansion --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
McKinley --Greenleaf wall house
Miniature Travel Trailer --Greenleaf
Missouri Farmhouse --South/West Crafts
Monroe --Greenleaf
My Doll House --Skilcraft
Newberg --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Newport Cape --Dura-craft
Nob Hill --Skilcraft
Ol' Merchantile -- American Craft Products
Old Time Store (Carlson's) -- American Craft Products
CLICK HERE extension kit available
Old Towne --Dura-craft 1/4 scale town
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Old Towne Enginehouse and Trestle -- Dura-craft 1/4 scale
Old West --Dura-craft 1/4 scale town
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Orchid --Corona Concepts
Oregon Trail --Dura-craft
Outdoor Playground --Wood Craft Construction
Petite Dreams Deluxe Dollhouse --XL Machine Ltd.
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Pierce, formerly Annabelle --Greenleaf
and the Annabelle CLICK HERE
Pine Mountain Village --Corona Concepts 1/4 scale town
Pioneer --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Ponderosa -- Dura-craft
Primrose --Corona Concepts
Princess --Greenleaf 1/6 scale
Queen Anne --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Roadside Market Stand --from Dollhouse Junction
Robin's Roost (bird house) --Greenleaf
Rosedale --Greenleaf
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
Royal Dream House --Arrow
Rustic Manor --Dollhouse Manufacturing Company
Rutherford --Artply
San Franciscan 550 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
San Franciscan 555 --Dura-craft
San Franciscan 557 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Santa's Cottage --Whitney/Greenleaf
Shadybrook Cabin -Corona Concepts
Shenandoah --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
The Shops -- Skilcraft
Sierra --Dura-craft
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
Somerset --Artply
Southern Mansion 700 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Station and Store --Greenleaf 1/4 scale
Storybook Cottage --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
formerly, The Little Cottage Shop CLICK HERE
Sugarplum --Greenleaf
Sunrise Arbor --Greenleaf
Sweet Shop & Library --Greenleaf 1/4 scale
Sweetheart --Dura-craft
Swiss Inn (bird house) --Greenleaf
Taft General Store --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Ten Room House -- Arrow
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Tennyson --Artply
Tennyson --Greenleaf
Tennyson --Whitney
CLICK HERE the interior CLICK HERE
Theresa --Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Tiffani --Artply
Tiffani --Falls/Greenleaf
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Tiffani --Whitney
Townhouse --Arrow
Townhouse ("My Doll House") --Skilcraft
Tudor --Dura-craft
Tudor 200 --Dura-craft
Van Buren --Greenleaf
Victoria Cottage --Beechwood, Ltd.
Victorian --Guidecraft
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
Victorian --Skilcraft
Victorian Mansion --Arrow
Victorian Mansion 600 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Victorian Mansion 800 --Dura-craft
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Victorianna --Greenleaf, 1:24 scale, Limited Edition
Vineyard Cottage --Greenleaf
Washington --Greenleaf The Original
CLICK HERE and CLICK HERE
Westville --Greenleaf
White Orchid --Greenleaf Limited Edition
Whitney --IICC/Artply
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
and also see the This End Up dollhouse CLICK HERE
Willow --Corona Concepts
Willowcrest --Greenleaf
Wildwood Stable --Corona Concepts
Winston Cottage --Dura-craft
The front CLICK HERE and the interior CLICK HERE
and CLICK HERE
Woodsman --Dura-craft CLICK HERE
Worthington --Artply
Ye Cozy Cottage --Artply
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MANY THANKS to the people who have contributed their creativity, time and photographs to this project!! They are: jeninky, Dean (Mini Man), Tracy (Minis on the Edge), blondie, calamari, CatColorado, chesterfieldzoo, CJEP, Deb, havanaholly, heidiiiii, ilovecats, jeffrey, KathieB, LPCullen, minime, missymew, ms. mini, nuttiwebgal, prariegurl, shakyshaky, tams, wenlaine, whippetgal, and numerous sellers of dollhouse kits. Supervision and interference provided by the Katz.
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The major tab-and-slot brands included here are:
Arrow
Artply
Corona Concepts
Dura-Craft ***
Greenleaf
Kozbro
Radmark/Whitney
Skilcraft
Wood Craft Construction
*** some Dura-Craft kits are not T &S and some come in both T&S and glue/nails versions.
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Get your motor running....
A friend of mine has recently been pushing me to finally get out all the fimo I bought last year, and finally sculpt for Tilly, my baker, and Nettle, who is not specifically food oriented but will definitely need plants, and the occasional Tudor meal.
I will crumble as soon as I find the time. And of course Nettle is in need of that Glencroft.. or rather is in need of it not being in a flat box...
Consider this a warning.
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Moving!
This blog has been moved to http://dollhouseladysblog.blogspot.com/
Drop on by y'all!
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Reception Room
Reception room is pretty much complete. Still have to do a desk chair -- but I have to locate one of those little pizza tables since I live rurally and definitely non-delivery
The workroom is still underway. The cabinetry is complete, the tattoo chair and the artist's desk. Also made a cool autoclave, power source and a tiny little tattoo needle. This room is still needing shelving, a roll-around stool for the artist, a movable armrest and rolling tray table. A lot of work still to complete.
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Lighting a Front Opening Dollhouse Step 1
How to Light a Front Opening Dollhouse using Roundwire
INTRODUCTION
If you have a front-opening dollhouse and want to learn how to add lights to the front panel, this tutorial is for you! I'm sure you're thinking that it may be difficult if you wanted to add a porch light or lights to the outside of the house. You're probably wondering how you attach the wires to the main wire, right? The answer lies in the hinges!
Think of the hinges acting as a bridge, carrying the electricity across the opening. It is safe to have the hinges carry the electricity. You can even paint the hinges and touch them when the lights are on!
This tutorial will show you how light your front opening dollhouse step by step.
Important Notes Before Starting!
- here to show you how to light a dollhouse.
It is important that you know the basics of lighting a dollhouse before proceeding with this tutorial. There is a tutorialThis tutorial is for round wire only. The procedure for wiring with hinges using tapewire is slightly different.
Make sure you are using brass hinges and screws! If your hinges and screws are not brass, they will not conduct electricity. You can pick up small brass screws at your local hardware store.
- Make sure you are using two separate hinges for the front panel. If you are using one long hinge, this method will not work. It is recommended that you get two separate hinges.
- It is recommended that you only use one light on the front panel for each set of hinges. Using more then one light may short out the lights .
- It is recommended that you finish the panel to the point where you will not need to remove the hinges or panel once the lights are installed.
Step 1 - Run the Wires from the light to the hinges
It is recommended that you save the lights for the front of the house until last. This means you should plan and wire all the other lights in the house first before working on the lights for the front panel. The reason for this is you will need to have your junction splice and main wire installed and working before you install the front panel lights.
With pencil, lightly make an X marking where each light will be attached to the front panel. Then carefully look at the other side of the wall and determine where you will want to run the wires to connect to the hinges.Determine where on the front panel you want to put the light(s)
Lightly draw a line (or use masking tape) to indicate where the wires will be run to connect to the hinges. If the wires are to go through the wall, make a mark (like a circle) to indicate a hole to be drilled and continue the line on the other side. These lines will be your guidelines for making grooves where the wires will lay.
Mark where the wires will go
During the initial planning stages where you make the lines for the wires for each light, determine if the wires that come with the lights are long enough or if they will need to be lengthened. Note this on a separate piece of paper so you can work on lengthening the lights (this step is discussed in the Hybrid Lighting Tutorial found here.
Determine what wires will need to be lengthened.
Remove the plug from the light and attach the light to the front of the house using glue or the sticky pad on the light. Feed the wire through the hole you drilled. Save the plug. If you are using a socket strip, you will need the plug later.Attach the light to the front of house and feed the wire through to the other side.
In the picture above, a coach light is attached to the wall on the other side. A hole was drilled to run the wire through the front panel. Grooves were made and the wires were placed in the grooves.
Make sure you do NOT screw the screws into the wire!
[*]
Separate the wire and run it to the hinges
After feeding the wire through the hole, run it along the inside panel until you get near the hinges. At that point, separate the two strands of the wire and run each strand to a hinge as shown in the image above. Use tape to hold the separate wires in place.
Skip the next part and proceed to step 2 if you are using tapewire.
[*]
Strip the insulation to expose the bare wires
Take one strand of wire from the light and using your thumb fingernail, pinch the white insulation over one of the strands of wire and pull. This will pull the insulation off without breaking the wires. You don't need to strip a lot of insulation from the wires, just enough for the bare wire to go under the hinge. About 1/4" to 1/2" of bare is sufficient. You will have to do this on both strands of one end of the wire from the light. With your tweezers, twist each end to make sure the fine wires are gathered up together.
[*]
Place the bare wire under the hinge
Take each end of the bare wire and place it under each hinge. If the hinges are already screwed into the panel, unscrew them enough to loosen the hinge and stick the wire under it. Tighten the screws. Make sure the bare wire touches the bare hinge. Repeat for the other hinge.
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Easy Stucco Treatment
A cheap and extremely easy method for applying a stucco look to your miniature exteriors.
This method works well on Greenleaf and other plywood surfaces as well as the pine used for by Houseworks such as the facades on the street of shops. It has not been tested on MDF or other surfaces. It may be beneficial to rough up smoother surfaces with a utility knife or some high grit sandpaper.
I used the Simple Fix brand Premixed Adhesive & Grout. A quart runs you about 8$ at Home Depot and depending on the size of the area you are covering it should last a long time. It comes in a few colors, White, alabaster (off white) and gray. Be sure that the grout you get is the same as pictured below--BOTH Adhesive AND Grout!
First thing to do is cover your workstation! Put down newspapers, an old sheet or tablecloth because it makes cleanup really easy! For plywood houses like Greenleaf, Corona, Artply, Duracraft, etc... you will not need to prepare the surface in any way. Working in small sections, start by spreading some of the grout onto the surface with a pallet knife, your fingers or whatever you have on hand. Spread it around like you were icing a cake or buttering bread with about 1/4" thickness. Once the grout is in place you can use a stiff brush or even your finger to pounce the grout, giving it texture as desired. Once you're finished spray your creation with clear sealer. I like a matte finish but you can choose the gloss you prefer best.
I used the alabaster colored grout on my Pizzeria because I didnt want the final effect to look stark white.
If it's necessary to color your stucco, the grout can be painted with a brush after it is dried and sprayed with a clear sealer or you can spray paint it. If you paint it with a brush you might wish to respray it with the sealer.
For my Loganberry Mill I used a sponge brush to work blue paint into all the nooks and crannies. Once it was done I felt the blue was too solid looking so I went back with some cream colored paint and swirled it around with a regular small bristle brush using a dry brush effect.
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Curtains, curtains, and more curtains!
Making mini curtains is such fussy work. It's time consuming and requires a lot of attention to detail, but in the end the results are SO worth the time and effort. I've spent a couple weeks working on curtains for the Tennyson and I think I tossed more in the trash than I ended up using, but I'm finally content with these.
I'd intended on using some color for the windows but the house had completely different plans and thwarted ever attempt at using colors or prints. It insisted on white silk and lace for every room and steadfastly refused everything except clean, crisp lines with touches of lace. Miss Tennyson is dedicated to remaining as light and airy as a house can be! I have to agree with her that it's a softly elegant country look that's in keeping with my vision so I'm glad she's being so insistent. Unlike some houses, she's not demanding or diva-ish about it. She's more like a gracious, kindly aunt whispering, "No dear, that's just not the way it's done. It's not proper to be so bold. Remain quietly dignified." And since I never argue with a house (well, not much anyway), I've followed her direction and came up with the following.
This is the attic dormer window. I don't have this one attached to the frame yet since it's a close fit and I don't want to take a chance on getting wood glue on the fabric when I assemble the house. But it's all one unit so once the house is assembled I can simply glue it in place and put a few drops of glue on the side to hold them down straight. I chose a cascading ruffle for this window because it'll have a rocking chair and small table holding needlework and a sewing basket sitting in the dormer alcove. This allows light to come thru and would be the perfect place to sit and embroider.
On the second floor left side bedroom (the room with the screen door leading out to the balcony), I made a simple straight curtain to show off the fabulous lace valance. That lace will be used on the bedskirt which is why I kept the design simple so it won't fight with the bed for dominance in the room. I made some drapery pulls with tassels from white embroidery thread that I'll add later. The valance draws the eye towards the tin hearts on the wallpaper border to create a very soft, demurely romantic look.
In the other bedroom, the bay window presented itself for what I thought would be some fancy curtains with overlays of lilac silk. <shaking head> Nope. Miss Tennyson nixed that idea immediately and said that the room needed a little more light and a minimum of fussy fabric. I've always liked cafe curtains so I tried it and luckily Miss Tennyson agreed. I may add some silk ribbon bows or cascades to them later but for now, the clean lines and slight billows as if they're moving in the breeze works just right.
The downstairs bay windows in the family parlor came together nicely. I was a little afraid that when I put them together they might be overpowering for the space, but they don't crowd each other at all. They're a little fancier than the bedrooms, but since it's a common area where the family might entertain, that's okay. They still look light and airy.
I wasn't sure about going so monochromatic with the white silk and lace in every window, but with the house back in dry fit, I was pleasantly surprised at how it pulls the rooms together in a subtle way. I'm also surprised at how frilly and romantic this house is becoming when that wasn't really my intention. But since all the lacy curtains, frills and curly ques in the furniture are monochromatic, it keeps it from being overwhelming.
I must admit that I'm tired of playing with fabric for now and can't wait to start building again. This morning I put all the furniture back in its box and double checked my pencil marks for wiring and the placement of outlets. I'm going to add a couple of extra outlets just in case I want to add some more lamps to it later. I need to make paper templates of the floors and then it'll be time to take it out of dry fit and start work again. I'm going thru a few days of inhibited body movement so it may be a couple of days before my joints are cooperative but as soon as they loosen up, I'll be cranking up that dremel and getting my hands dirty again!
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First coat of paint done
This is the cave/cavern in the rough state before painting.
This is after it's first coat of paint - I just used some old white emulsion (latex) paint & used acrylics to get the base colour I wanted.
It now needs a few washes to bring it to life.
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Progress as of April 10 '09
Well, progress has slowed somewhat, but that's to be expected, especially since I'm using popsickle sticks for tongue-and-groove siding . . . which means I have to cut off the ends. My hand aches, my back aches and I'm just about up-to-here with popsickle sticks. I will, however, perservere as I like the way it's turning out.
I cut two windows out on the sides to match up with the sides of the original house. They won't exactly match all the other windows on the house, but at least I was able to make new trim with my handy Dremel.
I also closed in a doorway on the main level. This is where I will build a false wall and add a curved staircase. I have it all figured out in my head . . . if it actually works will be a miracle!
My biggest challenge so far has been figuring out the turet which hangs over the front porch. I was originally going to use the roof off of a bird house I found at Micheal's, but it just didn't cut it. The height and angles were all wrong.
That's when I brought in the BIG GUNS . . . BRIAN!! He helped me figure out all the angles, et cetera. When he started talking the square root of this equals the length of that . . . I threw up my hands in horror and begged him just to give me the final tally. Math, my dears, is not my strong point . . . it frightens me!
So, in the end, this is what it looks like . . . keep in mind . . . it's nowhere near complete. This is a mockup made out of foam core.
So progress is slow . . . that and the fact that the Beacon Hill was bellowing for it's doors! Enough, she said!! How come THAT house is getting all the attention when I'm not even finished yet! What nerve! I cowered my head in shame (what else could I do?) and spent the day today putting in doors. They turned out pretty fabulous! I'll post pictures in my Beacon Hill gallery later.
I also had to go and buy new pink paint. I started painting the trim, but the pink I had just wasn't right. I think I've finally got the right color and tone. At least I think I do . . . .
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The Beginning of the Van Buren
I was lucky enough a couple of years ago to purchase a Van Buren kit. Even more lucky that the kit was unopened and apparently had been stored real well. Everything is there, the instructions, the schematics and all the pieces. The wood is in great shape. My oldest Granddaughter, Lindsey, picked this house to be hers. Her original idea was to have a Taikwondo studio on the bottom level and living quarters in the 2nd and 3rd floors. Being a good grandmother, I said sure, it is doable.
A little while back, someone posted on the ebay eye candy forum line a picture of a beautiful Van Buren that they had built and had used block siding on, extended the balcony porch and added columns to the front. Wanting to make this special for DGD, I showed her the picture and she wants that house. (Now, I think I may have bitten off more than I can chew, I mean this house is beautiful and fancy)
So in preparation to try and make DGD happy and to do a good job, I ordered the plastic stencils to make block and bricks and also the stencil to make quoins. Also ordered upgrades for the front and french doors.
This weekend we broke out the kit, and DGD was asked again, if she still wanted a studio--no, no, she says, I want a old fashion candy shop and I want it to be blue--that is my favorite color she says. This child is almost 13, so as I see my grand plans go down the drain, her dear Mother steps up and says you want a fancy shop--let Nana brick it. Well, after looking at the brick and the block stencils, she has decided that her shop/home wants to be red brick--not fire engine red but a darker red with hints of black in it (hard to explain, but our rl fireplace is her model I believe).
We didn't make a lot of progress, but part of the shell is glued together, the door openings have been widen and experiment in brick material have begun.
The doors are not glued in, just placed to give you an idea of what it will look like. She wants this house electrified, so I'm thinking my next step is to install the interior doors (thinking cloth hinge) because the access to these will be hard after the side walls go up.
The rooms are large and the finished house should be 30 x14 x 30. A big house and roomy.
Please feel free to follow along on my (our?) journey of building this beautiful kit.
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Molly's host homes.
;) Molly has been in Australia, Scotland, Sweden, Delta BC Canada, Edmonton Alberta Canada, Bratford Onterio Canada, California, Texas, Ohio, Mass (2)., Maine (2), New York, New Jersey, Maryland, South Carolina, and was lost on her way to Arkansa. Molly had many adventures and they are not all recorded here in this journal, most are though. I was waiting for her to get back with her journal to see what else she had done. She has done way more traveling then I'll ever do in my life time. LOL
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Willows - master bedroom
And this is the master bedroom with all the trim now installed! Still need to make the bed up, and some cushions for the sofa/chair, and also install the carpet.
Notice the sweet lamp on the bedside table? Well turns out it isn't staying as I decided not to electrify But got a lovely bunch of flowers there now.
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Moving Right Along
August 12, 2013
I’ve been trying to get my hands to cooperate with me so I can cut the hay bales on the mini saw and finish off the coop. Unfortunately carpel tunnel is relentless and my hands are just too weak and shaky to confidently power up that saw. The CP is bad enough, cutting off a finger – not in the game plan, so I’ve set that aside for now and moved on to something more manageable – building a needlepoint stand and creating a mini needlepoint piece for the Bronte House. I was so excited when I got the little kit in the mail that I couldn’t wait to put it together and in my haste I forgot to take pictures of the unassembled kit. So, Yankee ingenuity in tow I scanned photos from the instruction sheet to give you an idea of what it looked like before. So here are pictures of the notched bottom, the decorative stand, and the frame. Simple pieces that were quickly done.
And here are the pictures of the completed assembly.
This is the pattern for the needlepoint piece.
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Step 6: Placing tree in it`s stand
Once you have completed your Layers of branches (I did 7) you will want to place your tree into a container. The instructions call for a box but I used a small terra cotta pot. I want to figure out another alternative to a stand but it has to have stability. The tree is on the heavy side and will topple over if it does not have a stable base.
I warmed some Green Sculpy in my hand and formed a ball. I glued the inside of the pot and pushed the clay inside smoothing out the top. I put glue on the stem of the tree and pushed it into the clay. It is in there for good. LOL
I have started to decorate. I am making little ornaments with seed beads, beads from that package I showed in the top of the tutorial, miniature lights, and miniature candy canes.
I have a ways to go but I thought I would show the progress so far.
This is my first attempt at this tutorial and I like some things and do not like others. I have followed the directions to the T, but the tree just does not form like I want it to. I will soldier on though. I want to make some modifications for the next tree that I make. I want a better stand that is more realistic, branches that lay better, branches that tier better, and find ways to make nicer ornaments.
You all can see what the results are and can do your own modifications also. That is why I am leaving the instructions as is. You may want to add more layers or delete the layers. Your choice! ;)
Soon I will make a skirt for the tree and lay out the presents.
To be continued....
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Scratch build castle inside first section
Fitting for fireplace to set in the wall. And starting to glue down floor tile. This part of the tile is grouted now and ready for the next part to finish this floor area.
Nothing new will be up untill next week,around march 5th. The castle is dismanteled right now. Putting in the beams on ceilings and cutting out for the staircases. And the outside walls are being painted,while waiting on the stone for the outside, and rest of the stone for the floors to be delivered.
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March
The tips this month were submitted by Margaret.
Tips for applying paint: Use dollar store eyeshadow applicators-they come in a pack of 25 sometimes. Instead of having to wash your paintbrush-just toss the applicator.
Free mini item: Look in the section where the bottled water is sold in your grocery store. The little inserts in the caps look like mixing bowls or with a cardboard lid they can become mini canisters.
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Hating Stairs!!
Have I ever said how much I hate building stairs. I have been working on these for what feels like forever!
For some reason there are two pics of the stair post??? OH well.
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Electrician at Work
Sunday, June 23, 2013
I do wish RL would stay out of my way! I had a little time yesterday to work on minis, but spent much of it packing up the little room box I had made for my sister. I've learned a few things from the big companies that mail miniatures to me - pack them with LOTS of padding! I now have a cigar box cushioned in the center of a 17" square box. And my own copy of the same room box isn't quite finished, so I worked on that for awhile, too. Then, when that was clamped and the glue was drying, I got out my micro house. The paint was all dry, of course, so I did another dry-fit, putting more of it together this time. Sorry I forgot to put a penny or a Hershey's kiss in the picture, but it's setting on a cutting mat with one-inch grids.
I think this will work just fine to take out the one wall so I can have a larger Parlor, or Entertainment Room, as they were called.
Then I took the micro LED lights out of their packages, dismantled the house again, and did some experimenting with light placement. I think maybe the hallways will be left without lights - the maid forgot to turn them on! That will reduce the lights from nine to only six. So if I can fasten the lights to the ceilings first, then cover the ceiling with paper, then try to hide the wires down the sides of the chimneys …
I worked for hours on Sunday afternoon and evening, but don't feel like I made much progress! The wires are on two of the floor/ceilings, but not on the top floor yet.
I think I should paint the top side of it first but not sure if it will be seen or not. I made a paper pattern of the second floor, which is the first-level ceiling, carefully tracing around the stairwell and the slots for the lower walls to fit into. Since I am leaving out a wall on the second floor, I didn't cut slots for it, just covered them over. Not needed, right? WRONG! Half of each slot is for the notches on top of the lower wall. Two walls fit into one notch. I used a pale yellow scrapbooking paper for the ceiling, which I cut out using my scratch-paper pattern. Carefully measured and cut holes for the light bulbs to poke through, and glued it all down. Then I did another dry-fit, placing the first-level walls and the second flooring together. That's when I realized my mistake in covering the slots!
Why does glue grab quickly when you don't want it to??? I was barely able to get the paper off again! I fleetingly considered trying to cut the paper through the slots, since it was already glued, but the slots are so tiny I wasn't sure I could do it without cutting the wood also. So now I'm back to Square One with the ceiling papers. Well, maybe Square Two, since I still have the pattern.
I also painted the red "carpet" on the stairways, and painted the banisters and top landing in gold.
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New Project
Well, I guess it isn't actually "new", but It hasn't been posted here yet- I'm working on a 2D art piece, currently.
About 18 months ago, I started to plan a new pen and ink/stipple piece. My little ones do so much damage to my minis, thanks to the lack of a separate workroom, that I have had to leave it dormant for at least another year or so. A drawing, on the other hand, I can lock in a closet or someplace else that the kids shouldn't get into. So, I started planning on the new piece. During the first week of April, 2017, I spent the week in the hospital for a scan to detect seizures (I don't have them, it turns out), and I knew I would have endless hours of nothing to do and not many distractions, so I started plotting and inking in a massive 30 inch by 40 inch drawing of a Union Pacific Railroad Big Boy. At 120 ft long, over 1.2 million pounds and with sixteen drive wheels and a firebox bigger than my first two apartments combined, they were the largest steam locomotives ever built. I worked on the picture the entire week I was there, but did little after I returned home. After my motorcycle accident this past February, I had time again to work on it in the rehab hospital, so I did. I have been working on it at least a few hours a week since then. If I can get some free time, I hope to have it done by early 2019.
I'm also posting a few more photos of the accident. After a couple of near-death experiences from it, I'm finally riding again, but not as much. While I was still on a lot of pain meds, I was able to borrow a sharpie marker from one of the nurses and marked up my cast. I was really out of it, but I think it turned out well.
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Porch in Progress
I've finally managed to work on the entry steps. It's fairly close to the original design but I decided not to baluster the entire way down. The lower steps are now finished (though not in the photo). So far so good.
I put my maid with her mop on the steps for scale. And if you look closely you can see the old grumpy man through the window as he dines.
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Met Today's Goal
I had just about given up hope that I would be able to stain the doors, windows, beams, and timber framing today, as I didn't think I would have enough time to finish all of the fussy sanding needed in preparation for the staining. As it turned out, I was able to finish the sanding yesterday so it was staining day! For the exterior timber framing, I mixed an earthy green, brown, and sienna oil paints and thinned them down with turpentine to make a mossy green. For the beams and mantle I made up a batch of walnut colored stain using my oils and turp. I wanted something that looked like stain but moving toward a purply mahogany for the interior window framing and was very pleased with the color I mixed using brown, red, blue, yellow, and white with the turp. I plan to make curtains using medical gauze that I dye with mulberries which should look good with the framing color.
Now I just have to wait for the stain to dry and I can put the windows together. I can't wait!
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Foam Core Townhouse
This is a Townhouse made of Foam Core, I have not yet started rehabbing it... I have ideas but Have not done anything to it yet.!
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Rosedale Shingle Pattern (step 1)
My Rosedale Shingle Pattern Tutorial
I tried to mimic the pattern shown on the dollhouse kit box, but mine was modified a little.
I should start with the supplies I used. I purchased from DollhousesandMore.com the Diamond Shaped Cedar Shingles. Currently they are priced $19.99 for 1000 pk bag. They were not that much when I bought mine. I did use hot glue. Hot glue is not recommended for building, but I do use it for applying shingles. I glued the shingles right on the roof, I did not use a template of the roof sections in heavy card stock. I painted my shingles black and medium gray. I tried to do the wash, but it wouldn't take on the cedar shingles. There are approximately 370 gray and 330 black shingles on my Rosedale. I believe this pattern works best on the mansard roof.
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catching up
Having had a very full year. I wanted to do something totally for me for total enjoyment.
so I got my Arthur down from the shelf...gave it a good cleaning. I was going to paperclay the base of the porch but since most of it would be hid I decided to just sponge it. but of course I was glueing down the finishing touches when I realised ''''nope''''
the picture patrol forgot to take a before photo...but its there!
what makes this house so special to me is that I didnt want to build it really...but as I worked on it I fell in love with what it could become...not that I had any idea one day I would fill it with wonderful gifts and swaps from my friends all over the world! and that is what I have done.
I was soooo very low the day I recieved my get well box...those of you who have had major surgery and complications know how emotional you can feel and vunrable. but I was sooooo excited. I cried and my daughter was crying with me...see mom you have lots of people who care. I was so touched and am so blessed. that although the inside still needs a few finishing touches I want to dedicate my Arthur to Greenleaf who gave us this forum so we could grow as miniaturist but to also make friends and to all of those friends who I look forward to hearing from every day.
I hope you enjoy the photos....also if you dont see something dont worry...some of these items have been boxed up for awhile and Im just finding stuff...more will be added as it is found!
tytytytytytytytytytytytytytyty
my house is so wonderful because of all of you!
nutti :whistle:
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Sugar Plum on the way!
I started painting and staining the floor today. I gave up on the idea of stucco since Fairies probably don't want to be bothered with it either. I painted the outside and the ceiling of the first floor. Starting to get ideas already.
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