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About this blog

Six different views on building the Glencroft

Entries in this blog

Are we there yet?

I have a picture! <_< blog-241-1126387760_thumb.jpgThere is some minor work to be done, like permanently attaching the windows and door, adding the door knocker and handles, chimney stuff, etc. I am assembling the garden/yard separately, it just seemed easier that way. I hope to finish the yard by this evening <cross fingers>.Compliments of CatColorado

Not really "finished", but the construction is DONE!!!

The front yard did not want to fit levelly across the fron t of the house, so I got insistent.

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The short fence sections take the seven pickets nicely at 1/2" intervals (center of one picket to the next); however, to continue this spacing on the longer (left front) fence sections takes only NINE pickets, not the ten suggested in the instructions. I used seven pickets on the gate. The whole fence got two coats of paint.

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The gate hinges I got look very good, but you can't see them because I hinged the gate to open inward, as on the box photo, and then installed the fence before I realized I hadn't taken a picture of the hinged gate (since I had already installed the handle on the front of the gate there was no way to get a good picture of the hinge anyway).

I installed the windowbox under the kitchen window & as soon as the left fence glue dries enough to remove the clamp holding the side of the fence to the yard I can plant my flowers.

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I ordered the little sign kit from HBS and whilst the glue dried on & in the windowbox I painted "The Sprig of Holly" sign & installed it.

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I have begun tracing furniture patterns.

complements of havanaholly

September 7, 2005

I popped out the yard pieces and began prepping them yesterday. I applied the edge pieces and step piece WRONG,

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I discovered today when I was able to collect all the scraps into the box bottom & study the picture on the box top. All the pieces have been popped off & glued back on.

The gate went together really well, although the instructions tell you there are 12 gate pickets and you actually only use seven of them. I found the gate hinges in the first place I looked for them, they'll go on when everything's painted.

The yard needed a bit of cosmetic surgery to accommodate the fenceposts, very minor. The fence has gone together nicely. The post pieces that get glued over the frame pieces aren't quite as wide, so needed very careful sanding to get it better. I'm considering pulling out the spackle tub before I paint, which will be after I get all the little pickets glued on.

Since, as Linda mentioned, there are many, many pickets to apply, I figured I'd go ahead & blog whilst waiting for the glue to dry. I have most of the right fence done & the left end of the left fence has a picket on it. I measured to place the center picket on the fence sections taking 7 pickets, then eyeballed between them, and shall eyeball for the last four pickets on each fence section. I am measuring the 1/8" up from the bottom to get the edge even.

The walk and step turned out well and I've glued down the grass paper on the right side of the yard. I'm only gluing the perimeter of the yard area "grass".

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complements of havanaholly

Days 37 08-29-05

Well, we have a little problem. I looked and looked and looked for the top to the chimney, and it is nowhere to be found. We even cleaned up the construction area, and it is still nowhere to be found. So, either the minutemen or Chloe took off with it, along with the rails to the staircase. So, the house will not have either one of those, unless they are found hidden somewhere at a later date.Now, I have gotten the fence painted, and the house is mostly finished, I am just waiting on Jimmy to put the doorknobs on for me. The doorknobs I want to use for the interior have to be cut, and I haven't the hand strength to cut them!Compliments of LPCullen

Days 35 & 36 08-20 & 8-21-05

Not too much exciting going on today. I have finished staining the interior doors, and have put them together with the hinges inside of them. Jimmy had to trim down both interior doors and the exterior door so that it would fit, and he has hung them on the house. I have also been doing so touch up painting here and there.Jimmy has been building the little picket fence. Way too many pieces to that fence, and I now know why most everyone else has elected to leave it off.blog-241-1125976301_thumb.jpgCompliments of LPCullen

Days 30 & 31 - 08-13 & 08-14-05

Poor Jimmy, he's still shingling ... It's kind of interesting how he has to tape down the shingles on that one side. Here's that picture:blog-241-1125974322_thumb.jpgHe is almost done though. In this picture, you can see most of the roof done. But, pay close attention to that double window behind the house. Next time you see that area (see the Westville blog), that window will not be there.blog-241-1125974420_thumb.jpgCompliments of LPCullen

Labor Day

It took all of an eighth sheet plus one row of shingles from a ninth 9"x12" sheet of paper to complete the roof; for you math-impaired (like me) that is more than 800 sq in of roof.On top if that the first coat of lacquer sort of dissolved the pastel chalk pigments; they're there if the light is just right. After I touch up the roof seams with black paint & it dries I'll hit the roof with a second coat of lacquer and then go over the slate "lines" with colored pencils. Or maybe just leave well enough alone.I masked off the section of yard in front of the exterior door to prime & then paint a grout color. When it's dry I'll spackle it and carve "paving stones".blog-241-1126380140_thumb.jpgSomewhere I have some railroad landscaping "grass" from the Cambridge front yard that I'll use for the rest of the yard.complements of havanaholly

September 4, 2005

The "slates" look more like asphalt shingles according to DH today, I have shingled the right & left ends of the roof and the rear and begun the front, and it does look as though the lacquer layer was not sufficient to keep them stuck down without rippling and rippling makes them look like wimpy asphalt rather than sturdy slate.

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I did try going back and regluing the edges down and where it worked they look better, so this is what I'll try before the last coat(s) of lacquer. It also looks as though I shall need more than seven sheets of construction paper "slates". If I were mathematically inclined (instead of arithmetically challenged) I would have figured the square inchage (miniaturist's version of square footage) area of the roof and figured out that way how many 9"x12" sheets of black construction paper I'd need to prepare. Mumble, mumble... If I don't have to make more sheets I ought to be finished roofing tomorrow & can start fitting the yard. If not, we all know what I'll be doing for a couple of more days :o :blink: <_<

complements of havanaholly

September 3, 2005

I "guesstimated" that seven sheets of 9"x12" black construction paper would be sufficient to make roofing "slates" 1"x1", knowing I can make more if I must.

I had bought a pack of all black construction paper on sale at Michael's a while back. First I pulled out seven sheets of paper and painted one side with lacquer and let it dry.

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On the other side I drew 1" grid lines with a #2 pencil, the graphite shows up really well & by using a bit of pressure to draw the lines the coarse construction paper scores nicely along the pencil lines. THis comes in REALLY handy for the dimensional part of making paper "slate".

On each of seven more sheets of construction paper I used combinations of no more than two of the following pastel chalk colors: red, violet, dark green, dark blue, brown & white. I rubbed them across the sheets as I did the sandpaper for the "bricks"; because the paper is coarser than brown kraft paper it picked up the colors, and because it is much finer than the 240-grit sandpaper I used for "bricks" the effect is much subtler. I sprayed the colored sheets with my ever-trusty acrylic matte sealer and on the reverse sides I drew 1"x3/4" grids; I lay each sheet of construction paper down on a sheet of waxed paper both to protect the chalk surface & to protect the work surface.

The next stage was to crease the colored sheets along the 3/4" lines and tear them carefully into strips, then crease & tear at the 3/4" lines into individual "slate" layers. Then I glued them randomly onto the unlacquered side of the 1" grid sheets.

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Once they were nicely dry I took the white pastel chalk crayon & drew bits of random squiggles on the colored paper bits & when I'd done one sheet I cut out a strip

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and laid it on the right bay roof and cut it to length. I then cut between the "slates" on the vertical 1" lines approximately 3/4"-7/8" and ran glue beads across the back (I'm using Elmer's white glue on the construction paper)and stuck them down. As I finished gluing on the second strip DH walked in & said, "It looks like slates".

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As most of the day was spent dealing with DS#3's breaking his arm at 4 AM & not getting out of hospital ER until 11 AM, I'm going to be working on this part for a while. One of the advantages to construction paper shingles/ "slates" is that I have not had to use the first piece of masking tape to hold them in place. When the glue dries I shall paint the whole section of shingles with another coat (or two) of lacquer.

complements of havanaholly

September 2, 2005

I got the trim & kitchen door off in one, trimmed the door to FIT and rehung it.The stair "carpet" was a wee bit wide, but turned out not too bad; wish I'd found the ribbon before I had to install the left wall, it would have made the carpeting easier, but then I'd have gotten spackle on it & THAT wouldn't have come off! The red leather will work nicely. I had to piece the snug's windowseat, but it doesn't show. Somewhere I have some narrow braid to hide the jaggedy edge of the leather, even with a steel straight-edge & Stanley knife the leather stretches a tad while being cut.I prepped the roof for shingling by taking spackle on my finger & smoothing it all around the rough plywood edges of the roof. When it was dry I painted it black.blog-241-1126378756_thumb.jpgIt will take me a couple of days to make the "slates", I'll blog how I did it when I see how/ if they turn out.complements of havanaholly

shingles, shingles, shingles

Although I haven't blogged in quite a while due to losing my password (as well as being entirely too busy to remain sane), I have been working on the Glencroft. I'm at the truly tedious part of the house, the shingling. The windows are hung and the doors in place. This turned out to be a very handsome house and I am very happy that I was given the opportunity to build it. B) I even have the perfect rug for it, or more accurately, part of a rug. I'm still stitching it and I have misplaced my chart (why me?). How I lost an eleven page chart remains a mystery. :blink: I really look forward to the garden part of the house which I will complete after the shingles are on.Compliments of CatColorado

Septemer 1, 2005

The windows are hung!I readjusted the door to the bathroom and rehung it; I'm still trying to prise off the trim around the kitchen door to fix it. I've masked around the inside of the right bay to finish spackling "stucco" in there and when it's dry I'm going to cut a piece of the wallpaper I used on the floor to do the window ledge. I need to make a pattern for shelves for under the right front window in the kitchen.If the woven red ribbon I bought isn't too wide I'll carpet the stairs tonight. I found a red leather ball cap at the Goodwill that will upholster the two window seats and however far it will go after that.Last night I touched up the chimney with more drybrushing white with a touch of black; DH said, "Oh, now it looks like stone." Hurrah! B) complements of havanaholly

August 31, 2005

I began by hanging the front door

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and then the windows.

Remember the care I suggested taking with the window frame pieces, because it goes double for the window surround trim. In order to remove the trim sheets from the plywood there is a minimum width the pieces can be die-cut. In order for the windows to hang and be able to open & close the surround trim must be cut down by 1/3 (3/8" to 1/4") from the inner edge. For me this involves combined whittling and sanding.

The front doorway also required some minor surgery, as did the door, but the fit is good & the door works. I'll have to go back and try to take out the interior doors and trim them and rehang them; difficult, if not impossible because I did such a bang-up job hanging them the first time (but they don't quite fit because I hadn't fought the front-door fight).

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One of the challenges to shaving that 1/8" is that the frame pieces are die-cut, and that means that for two elements that go with the grain, there is one element that goes across the grain of the plywood (there are three plies to 1/8" plywood and both the top & bottom pieces' grains run the same way). While it wasn't a huge problem with the vertically-oriented windows, that poor little horizontal window in the right front gable that I had to rehinge has the trim cut the same direction as all the other window trims. While this looks nice on the schematics sheet and I'm sure laid out well for the die-cutters, when it needs to be trimmed down so much there is obviously a risk of breakage, and mine broke as I was whittling the last little bit. Fortunately plywood also mends easily, especially when the breakage is offset (in my case by nearly a half-inch B) ) so I will probably be able to sand off the remaining protrusion where I was whittling when it broke.

I would suggest making all the trim pieces the correct internal dimensions and not having to trim any excess, or at least have it trim off the outer edges (and I could've done it on the belt-sander...).

I have installed the left wall windows and they look pretty good. Instead of the little brass handles I used on all the other casements I made knobs on these, using 1/2'" nails and brass beads. I also hung the windows in the upper right wall & in the right bay.

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I suspect this part is going to take the longest, especially if I can coax the interior door surrounding trim off to shave the doors a bit more and rehang them.

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I thought I was adding to the blog & I'm into a possible thriller (well, maybe not to the reader...).

comlements of havanaholly

August 30, 2005

Yesterday I made the windows from F-6 (the triple that goes in the left front window opening downstairs. Today I made the rest of them.

I took the four frame pices and stacked them together keeping the inner edges as even as possible, spring-clamped them on the sides and clamped them into the benchtop vise and sanded the inner edges smooth with an emeryboard sanding stick and the outer edges with the Dremel drum until they fit.

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I also had to perform corrective surgery on each window opening to get the windows to fit AND work B)

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Then I used the emeryboard to remove any "whiskers" from the edge corners and lay one pair of frames facedown and glued the acetate pieces to the backs.

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The frames are numbered from the upper right wall window through the two left wall windows, F-1 through F-7; the corresponding acetate "glazing" is identified on the schematic sheet W-1 through W-7. I use regular white Elmer's glue because it dries clear & doesn't damage the acetate sheet in case of an "oopsie" (guess how I figured that one out? not on THIS house). I covered the glued frames with a piece of waxed paper and weighted them down and let the glue set for about an hour.

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I cut a strip of chamois from one edge, 1/4" wide, and cut "hinges" from the strip; 1/2" lengths for windows hung vertically and 1" long for the F-3s that hang horizontally and were almost an "oopsie" because I was on a roll of gluing the "hinges" on the long edges of the frames and I was about to butcher the right gable window opening when I had the "DUH" moment and took the windows back apart (VERY carefully, I make those puppies to last forever!) and hinged them correctly. I glued a set of three "hinges" evenly spaced along the edge I want the window to open from and then I glued the other pair of frames on top and clamped them all around with spring clamps so that no gaps showed between the adjacent frame pieces.

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After the glue had set (another hour or so) I glued on the window handles; after a half hour I took my fine-point awl and punched holes through the handle nail holes into the wood and attached the little 1/4' brass nails/ brads we love so well... I have a pair of fine-pointed tweezers I use to hold the little devils over the nailholes and an elderly dull flat chisel to coax the brad down into the hole. then I exchange the tweezers for the chisel and grab a hammer and hammer the chisel to set the nail.

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Finally everything got a final coat of stain.

complements of havanaholly

August 28, 2005

Short entry today because most of it was spent running errands. I located all the window frame pieces. I want all "working" windows, but the left front downstairs window is a triple so think I'll hinge the two side windows and leave the center panel "fixed".

Note: Use extreme care prepping the window frames, they are only 1/8" thick & 3/8" wide and the plywood sometimes has brittle spots (note one of the F-6 frames in the vise).

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I also cut a 1/4" wide strip of chamois to make hinges.

I also got all the brackets installed, they are still drying.

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complements of havanaholly

August 27, 2005

I played with spackle most of the day. I spackled the roof seams inside and out and spackled some of the upstairs ceiling. Right now I like the way it looks, but I may come back later & spackle the whole thing...

I spackled the chimney and carved the "stones.

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When it dried I pounced a base layer of color on it, mostly white with touches of blue & green. When it dried I came back with a whole lot more white & a tiny bit of black & dry-brushed over it to give it a bluish-granite look to complement the burnt sienna stucco wash. It pops.

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I went ahead and punched out all the brackets and glued them together. The Mrs found out about the flowerbox and informed the proprietor HE could clean up after his houseplant in the snug if he wanted to, if she had to spend all day in the kitchen slaving over a hot stove she'd have a bit of pretty to look out on; so the flowerbox's second coat is drying. I'll give the brackets a sanding with the Dremel drum later, when they're dryer.

Ooh, this house is FUN to build!

August 25, 2005

It didn't seem like much until I got going, but I have installed all the half-timbering & spackled/ filled the "stucco" areas on the second floor and have washed it all with burnt sienna.

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Then I assembled the tapered upper chimney, chimney top edge & flue. I masked the flue, spread a smooth coat of spackle over it & painted it terra cotta. I'll install after the rest of the chimney's done. I attached the chimney top to the tapered part and then I spackled the top edge and carved "stones" in the damp spackle with a pointed toothpick.

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I attached the tapered part of the chimney to the top of the rest of the chimney, so I guess for my NEXT trick with the chimney I'll spackle & carve stones.

I began assembling the windowbox, although I'll use it on another house, I don't think the pub proprietor wants a windowbox, the Mrs will probably put houseplants on the snug's window seat. Also I read over the instructions twice and glued it together the way the instructions read. I have since pulled it apart, sanded the mess off and reglued it the way everything will fit...

The interior trim is next on the instructions, HOWEVER, seeing what a masochist I am I decided to make all the windows "working" windows, so I shall be assembling windows and cutting more chamois hinges; wheeee!

I also installed the right bay roof. The right front roof once again needed gentle coaxing, I found my BIG hammer and coaxed the heck out of it! The shingles will cover the dings. I shall take my trusty spackle tub & go over all the seams in & on the roof, it worked really well to cover up the scores I cut to get the roof to curve where it was supposed to.

complements of havanaholly

August 25, 2005

I actually accomplished a lot of twiddly little things. I finished the roof, had to beat the right front roof back into submission.I began to glue on the half timbering, found several spots needing either stucco or brick infill, I think I have all the brickwork done but there are several more spackling spots.There are a few additions or corrections I'd make to the instructions/ schematics sheet. I installed Wall O upsidedown and discovered it when I was ready to intall the roof, and when I used the triangular piece to fill in where it went, I learned it wouldn't have gone there anyway (may be why I installed it upside down, it didn't fit the other way).That's the only place I won't be able to use the half-timber piece that goes there.With an invite to eat out I stopped with a few more pieces of trim to install, and then a burnt sienna "wash" to the new spackle, and then find the right bay roof and mask and spackle under the bays, the roof seams (especially inside) & finish the exterior cosmetic work (except the chimney, I'll spackle & carve "stones" when the chimney is pretty much finished).complements of havanaholly

August 24, 2005

The roof additions are holding so I began "bricklaying" at 0830; it took 5 1/2 hours to glue the individual "brick" faces to the card templates & the finished product POPS! So much so I painted a dirty wash of 5 parts white to one part each black & burnt umber and LOTS of water, applied it wet & patted with a tissue and it looked much better. When dry I cut out the infill areas of the bricked card and glued them to the house.

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I also "washed" the parget.

I washed the stucco with dilute burnt sienna. It was good.

While things were drying I installed the right gable roof and it gave me no problems. I also discovered where the spackle didn't stucco and one area of downstairs infill I missed tracing from the half timbering onto the card, so I'll hunt down that piece later & get 'er done.

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complements of havanaholly