Neverfinished2005

Our County has a population of 266,000+, and our makerspace has been in business since 2015, although she posted her first blog post December 2014, so this husband and wife dynamic duo look like (to me) that they have hit the 3 year mark. It think a population of 1.5 million in a city would easily support a MAKE OZ Destination. I believe The Dallas Fort Worth (TX) makerspace has the largest membership and the most successful of our makerspaces in the USA. If I remember the model correctly at our makerspace, it is about a $4,000 laser. For the non-engineering miniaturists, Programming a Laser should be as simple as programming an inkjet printer or a Cri-Cut machine to cut, but substitute a laser for the printhead or the drag knife. Here is a post about software options. https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/07/11/top-8-software-for-laser-cutting/ Good Luck with your decision!

I love tools... I would only order a laser if I am going to get software support. If you already know how to program to cut, then you should be good, but without software you have a $1000 tool that you can't use. Here in the US, we have makerspaces popping up all over in our communities... I would guess in our 2 county area of our home we have half million population, the larger population, the more likely you will have a makerspace. There is a robotics type techie group in my neighboring county, and a makerspace in my home county. My local makerspace has a Bosslaser, 3D printer, they have a pottery kiln, sewing machines, and woodworking equipment, although I have never seen the woodworking equipment. I recommend investigating the online community for software support before I made a purchasing decision. Chinese manuals translated to English can be very challenging to use. You also want to confirm that the laser you purchase will work with software that you can use. It is my opinion you have to make decisions about your software first before the acquisition of the laser, especially important in the $1000 range. You should also understand the replacement cost of your Laser tube, and the ability to get a replacement. Finding a vendor in your country who has been in the business for a long time, is the best way to understand your ongoing maintenance and replacement parts of your Laser Tube, even if you don't buy from them. Our club's local laser cutter uses Epilog lasers, and they sell at the Chicago International Bishop Show... so I have done some research, but purchasing an Epilog is like buying a used car, and if I wanted to cut something on a laser, I would go to my local makerspace at this point in my creative life.

P.S. I think Kieffer, you already have the Zona Saw... it is the same one posted in the Amazon Pictures... just a different handle - mine has a wooden handle.

I remember talking to one Gentleman @ one of the Chicago Shows... he specializes in miniature kitchen cabinets, and I asked him what saw he was using... and he was using a real table saw. While my husband could definitely use a life size saw for small cuts for me, it makes me nervous just to watch, so I prefer a model makers saw. There were several, off the top of my head, for model making: Dremel, Jarmac, Preac, Micro Mark...Byrnes, Proxxon... (Holly, of course DH uses a push stick on his real table saw, not giant pencil with eraser... but that would be a great picture eh?) Dremel, Jarmac and Preac are not made anymore. Our local miniature store owner had a jarmac that served her well. A tilting arbor on a table saw is very useful. The preac if you find one is really precise, but no tilting arbor on it; Micro Mark, Proxxon, Byrnes are current... Byrnes is top of the line and the larger table is plus, but I haven't been able to talk myself into buying one. Micro Mark does put their top of the line tilting arbor on sale, sign up for their mailing list. When I bought my preac, I had previously committed to my husband that I would sell my Micro Mark, but since the preac doesn't have a tilting saw blade, I kept my micro mark saw. I'm not 100% sure, but I think Proxxon makes the Micro Mark saw, so it is private label situation. If we don't have a lot of table saw experience here, the FMF has a lot of experience and I'm pretty sure someone has a forum topic on table saws. I don't like the Byrnes tilting table; I would only purchase the saw with a flat table. That just looks dangerous to me. Kickback from a saw blade - just isn't much fun, you need to be quick on your feet and limber enough to move out of the way of a flying piece of wood.

Holly you are right, I learned to use a pencil with new eraser for my push stick for my table saw. The new eraser helps keep the wood steady and does protect my fingers. I have never used a push stick for a scroll saw or band saw, it is truly like sewing, you can use both hands to guide your wood. On the subject of the back of the Villa Esche Armchair - these are beautiful designs! I did a Yahoo image search, and the URL is very long, so I won't post it, but if you are being inspired by the chair I saw, that resulted in my Yahoo image search, I found a photo with back slats that is strikingly similar to your post. It is a joy to see a new miniaturist work on chairs. If you can master the chair in its many forms - chairs are very challenging to get them to be the right height on 4 legs and to sit properly, you are going to have so many opportunities if you are not freaked out by chairs... I know some very talented miniaturists that do their best to avoid them. I can relate to pallet wood... my husband harvested some paduk from a pallet he got at work, and that is the hardest wood that I have ever put through a planer...The harvesting and repurposing wood is a fun way to go, and someday I will find that perfect project for that wood!

If power equipment isn't in your budget, jewelers saws are incredible... I wouldn't go to a class without one... and a Zona Saw with the greatest number of teeth available is also an incredible tool for cutting something straight. I recently participated in a woodworking class where we were cutting a lap joints on 2-3/8" x 2-3/8" thickness of wood by hand, and was very happy with my tools that I brought to my class. Just add some candle or bees wax or burlife to the blade to help your sawing action. Both of these saws are very inexpensive. You can purchase a Zona saw at Tom Thumb Store in the Chicago area - I know they moved - but they had them each time I have been in the store. I bought my jewelers saw online from Gesswein, but my jewelers saw blades from Rio Grande.

Keith you are doing an excellent job in your miniature furniture builds. I would have used my bandsaw for irregular cuts... I know with a young family you can't buy tools every weekend! But watch for them used... I found a benchtop model for less then $50 before at our local restore. A bandsaw is just slightly different then a scroll saw. The bandsaw allows you to cut thicker pieces of wood for the irregular rounded shape. You have a great eye, I am going to enjoy watching your progress! Please sign and perhaps put the year on the bottom of your furniture. When your daughters are grown up, they will enjoy having the date you made those wonderful pieces of furniture. I love TV Trays... but I didn't see TV tray when I saw your photo. I do most of my mini work sitting on my sofa and an Eames Fiberglass TV tray. The first two pieces of power equipment I learned to use was a Bandsaw and a Miter saw... I think a Bandsaw or scroll saws are as safe as using a sewing machine... and if you observe a 2-3" rule of holding wood 2-3" away from the blade, you should always be safe using a miter saw. Remember, don't move any wood, until the blade stops moving and you won't have to worry about losing a finger.

Hi Carrie, I have been fortunate to participate in classes at NAME Regionals & Conventions; the Chicago International and IGMA's Guild School and I have attended an IGMA Guild Study Program in Chicago and took a class with Alison Ashby and a Guild Study Program at Colonial Williamsburg, VA where I worked on the Spice Chest with Wm. R. Robertson. I am also a fan of on line costuming tutorials from the Mini Doll List. Unfortunately, being true to myself most of my stuff isn't finished - but I have studied the art of mini making at all of these wonderful venues since I joined a local NAME Miniature Club in 1996. I have been blessed with 22 years of mini merry making! Family and work take up most of my time and energy. I you read any of the miniature magazines you can't miss the ads and the articles submitted about Guild Events... it was a coveted dovetail class - that included an opportunity to purchase a jig, taught by Jack Blackham that got me to attend Guild School for the first time in 2006. IGMA does have a scholarship program that everyone is welcomed to apply. Applications are due on August 1, 2018. It covers 36 hours of classroom instruction; Shared dorm room, and meals. It generally doesn't cover travel expenses; but the cost of your travel expense is part of the consideration for application. I am looking forward to hearing about the scholarship students, as I don't know who the students were this year... http://www.igma.org/guild_school/scholarship.html You do not need to be a member at any level to participate in any of the Guild's education programs. Members do receive discounts at Guild School, Guild Study Program, and free admission at the Guild Show (Hartford, CT.) I am a general member of the Guild. I have never applied for Artisan status, as I am pretty sure they require finished miniatures!

http://www.wabi.tv/content/news/MMA-hosts-Miniature-Artisans-485167891.html If you do not follow the Guild on Facebook, a friend recently posted that the Guild School 2018 was on the local news. I think it is so wonderful to see our hobby get some local media attention. I love miniature tourism, and it is so peaceful to attend Guild School in Castine, Maine... you feel like you are on the tip of the US, where the sun wakes up at 5:00 am. Enjoy! Tamra

Thank you all for posting comments about Mr. Robertson's Ted-x talk. I posted it on the Fine Miniatures Forum last year...while I knew about the greenleaf forum, I think Pat Thomas had posted a Thomas house link that originated on the Greenleaf forum, but I didn't realize how large the community and forum is. When I was trying to find answers to my 2x4 hollow wall construction build that is when I really discovered the Greenleaf forum. This forum has a lot of posts... I will never be able to read all of them. I think it would be really cool to get miniatures in the mainstream of hobbies (again?) I don't know how you get a video to go viral, but it should be fun to see it happened with someone's YouTube vid.

I don't know if the Greenleaf community is aware of Master Miniaturist William Robertson's Ted-x Talk. He gave an amazing speech showing the life size world about our delightful miniatures. This live event was recorded on September 7, 2017 in Kansas City, MO - it was a great way to get the local community involved with the 2017 Masterworks event and draw local visitors to the museum. Were you able to attend the Masterworks event sponsored by the Kansas City Toy & Miniature Museum in 2017? I would enjoy hearing about your experience, and am looking forward to finding out the date for the 2021 event! If you haven't seen the YouTube presentation, please do check it out! It is a nice piece that can help others understand the precision of your miniature art. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dKohUA_xQQ

Hi Toni, sorry for the delay in communication, I was participating in a class for the last 5 days and away from a keyboard. I was able to complete a little turning prep on 1 of the 3 Days of the extended weekend. This is an exacting process, so it does take a lot of time to turn because the project requires precision for the two up rights to match. I already have the three turned (from last year) and could in theory use them and finish, but I want to do the turnings once more this year to reinforce my learning process. My reasoning is Mr. Robertson has 40? years experience in our miniature world, and I have a couple of summers, so I am doing the turnings again, just as if I was in class; we were supposed to turn 3 of the uprights and 2 of the cross member of the needlework stand, and then pick the best 2 for the upright and best 1 of the cross member to assemble. Last Sunday, I was able to start the process. I had to get everything out - my lathe, and all the accessories, and set up my work area, so it wasn't just walking up to the bench and turning, I had to prepare... Now that I am back from my Stereotomy class at Marc Adams School of Woodworking (Franklin, IN) I must finish this project, before I forget what I am supposed to do, and then I will return to turning. I went to the Stereotomy class to work on understanding how to build my roof lines, so this class is HIGH IMPORTANCE in my learning so I can start my dream custom build. The class was wonderful... and I want to return already; similar to Guild School, but life size projects... I hope you have been able to turn by now. Did you see how they mount wood on the lathe for pen blanks? I think a (non miniature) life size ink pen is a great instant gratification project. It took me just under two hours to turn my first pen at the local wood turning store; but now after the time to prepare the blank and mount it on the lathe, it would probably take me only 30 minutes including some sanding. I haven't turned a pen yet this year, so I will have to do that and make a note of my time. I hope to hear about your progress...

This is a 5 star video, Do you have a reverse switch on your lathe? I do, but mine doesn't work the same way. When you are watching videos waiting for your lathe tools to arrive (and remember to check Craigs Lists and auction listings too); take note of how the wood is mounted to the lathe... There are 47,400 videos to skim through on YouTube, when I searched Using a drill chuck on a lathe! Wow. I could spend another lifetime on YouTube. I'm off to the shop soon, to work on my spindles!

Genevra, thanks for the tip! My old Practical Carpentry Book (cloth bound) Copyright 1963 has balloon framing description on drawing on page 51. I was already considering the framing techniques too... so at least if I do this properly, vs today's Modern Braced Framing techniques, I will know one miniaturist who knew I did period specific framing for the home. I was looking at images of Georgian Structures last night, I am having difficulty making decisions - I think the Victorian is going to win. The issue is that I love Victorian exteriors, but want a Georgian interior - (sigh) it may end up being a time consuming muddled mess. I do have enough discipline left in my last little toe to pretend I can control this! I supposed I could just call it a turn of the century home, eh... and build to my heart's content!

Holly, you did a great turning job on your chair. I have not made any turnings for chairs... I am still in my needlework stand obsession. You can mortise your rungs. If you check out Elga's tutorials on her website and the fine miniatures forum, she illustrates how you mortise for assembly. I think Elga is using a mill setup but I've mortised with a dremel mounted in a stand and it is very effective. Did you get your lathe out of the box? Not that I am one to push on this issue, I can buy equipment as evidenced in my post on the Fine Miniatures Forum, and it took me 5 years to really push myself and get over the hump for turning. Collie Feathers turned that Chess Set on the Micro Mark Wood lathe, that I think is similar in size to the Harbor Freight lathe. Good grief, that 5 year delay is the reason why I am so sure that I can purchase tools used on eBay. If they are human beings similar to me, they may not have used those tools too much... We would love to have any of our Greenleaf forum participants to post any comments in the Fine Miniatures Forum, as it seems so quiet for a while... It uses the same IPS software engine as I think the Greenleaf forum uses, so not much learning curve, when I joined this forum... just this forum doesn't let me edit. Kokomo, How do you know for sure that the tailstock and headstock are both MT1? Switch the accessories you have now from the tailstock to the headstock and vice versa. You should have a bar of steel, that is round, that you tap from the opposite end to unseat the accessory (gently but firmly with hammer). I asked Dear Husband, and he believes the headstock and tailstock on every wood lathe should be identical. He has a full size, it stands on the floor lathe, and I have my jet mini, and you know we have never tested that theory. So this is my recommendation to test if what I am telling you is true. I have time, I will check this out myself over the weekend. Yes, you are correct the drill chuck definitely should be MT1. It opens like an iris on a camera and accepts drill bits up to 1/2", which in theory is a maximum 1/2" diameter dowel rod for the posted link. The purpose of a drill chuck is to drill into a turning. If you do a You Tube Search (mount wood on a lathe) I got 151000+ results... just scroll through a couple of pages to see how other wood turners are mounting wood on a lathe's headstock. Are they mounting it on a spur drive, a specialized chuck or a drill chuck? Those drill chucks are pretty attractive.... but is it going to work? My hat stands were all turned from 3/4 x 3/4 square stock. The stand base has to be large enough to not tip over once you have a hat on it. You can absolutely try the drill chuck and keep in mind that my learning process may be different from everyone else, and each of us should be encouraged to try things for themselves. From my limited experience I see that a drill chuck limits me to x diameter... where as a spur drive doesn't limit me. Initially, I was 100% convinced that I was never ever going to turn anything but a dowel rod. I got over that assumption pretty quickly when I started breaking my turnings, and figured out how much I was going to spend to turn cherry dowel rods, vs. Cherry square blanks, and suddenly I was really happy using the spur drive that came with my jet lathe. The ability to hold material in the headstock the way you want to hold is UNIVERSAL, and you will figure out what is best for you. The inability to hold material on the dremel lathe, is the reason that I don't like the dremel lathe. The Benjamin's Best set of lathe chisels were decent in cost, but when you look at my photo on the Fine Miniature Forum, I generally use 5 tools for hat stands and porch posts and ink pens... the ones in the photo are my 5 favs. I would definitely buy another set of Delta or Sorby Micro turning or pen turning tools. The tool steel in these turning tools, just have a different quality to them in my opinion, and if you are patient you can find good deals. Incidentally that larger skew chisel is from an old set of 5 turning chisels that I bought from big lots for $10 many, many years ago... I think after you have turned 100 to 200 hours you gain some experience on the quality of your lathe turning tools and you just know what you like... experimentation is highly recommended! It is crazy to think I can turn Sheraton bed posts in one length... but I'll try a few more times with a steady rest, and if that doesn't work, then I will break it down into separate segments and we will glue them together. This summer I want to continue to work on my needlework stand, and am trying my best to not start anything else, except floor plans for the scratch build! I had made the hats before the hatstands... I just never photographed them. I love to costume dolls, but haven't done that for what feels like years too... I loved the posted videos; most enjoyable to watch that cakestand and finial! Yes, my head hurt in the beginning too, and I still have occasional overload. You are learning a new language and skill, and enthusiasm is a wonderful approach. And if you are very clean and don't mix your woods, save some sawdust for wood filler and glue... it can be very useful should you find yourself with a fabu turning that has a small nick in it. Just mark your jar for your wood species. Ladies & Gentlemen, Start your lathes!

I like little machineshop's website, and I haven't heard others complain about service in my participation in other machining based forums. Before purchasing confirm with the seller that they do not anticipate any issues with using an accessory on a wood lathe. I use a sherline 4 jaw chuck for wood on my Taig Lathe. The chuck doesn't care if it is wood or metal, but you should not assume and always ask in the beginning, just so you know you did asked the right questions. You can check penn state industries for accessories too, and any woodworking supplier. PSI frequently gives 10% discounts in their email blasts. Once you order they send you nice catalogs.... pretty regularly. If you decide you want a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, you need to purchase one that has the correct thread pattern for your lathe's headstock. The pdf of your HF lathe indicates (pg 2 of 20): Drive Spindle Size 3/4” x 16 TPI Another thought this morning, I purchased a set of Benjamin's best tools, and a set of micro turning tools from Micro Mark, neither arrived very sharp; the micro mark tools were not usable upon arrival, and I did not expect the Sorby tools to be sharp because they were used. Out of the box, the Benjamin's best were usable, but the Sorbys were equally good, the Micro Mark tools, absolutely not sharp.

Genevra, I think I know two of my petitpointing friends who are building roomboxes that will become a doll house. I'm not sure if I can link one friends picture trail, but I think Susan Farnik is on Facebook... past MC covergirl for that beautiful conservatory and the Pot Shop is coming to my brain right now. Khadi, thanks for the link, I will add this to my favorites. The conversation definitely makes me want to do a scratch build... and I like that Giac did 14" ceilings as that is my plan for the main floor too. His staircase is beautiful. Grin, need to disappear from forums and start drawing floor plans! Perchance to dream...

I have only had down events with bedposts. We all need a challenge though. I need to cave and try my steady rest. Re-reading after eating food, you do have a spur drive...Sorry about missing that detail the first time through.

Kokomo, it is a wood lathe and an MT1 taper. I have never used a 4 jaw chuck on my jet, I've only used the spur in the headstock. Referencing your pdf of the manual. Page 18. Do you have a spur drive, part #15? This is similar to my Jet Mini lathe, I can't find the hatstands right now, but I'm sure I can turn to 3/16" diameter. I generally use 3/4" x 3/4" square stock. You can buy pen blanks... I never go to the woodworking store and not buy a few, you can pick out color and grain of wood, it's worth a few bucks to me to pick my own wood vs buying via mail order. To mount on the spur drive, I have a v block that I set the pen blank in, and I laying in the v, as a diagonal square, i cut into the end of the pen blank to create an x on both sides. This gives me a center point. Then I tap the 3/4 x 3/4 wood blank into my lathe spur drive until it meets the spur edges, not all the way, but just for it to set nicely in the X that I made with my bandsaw. Tap with a nice gentle carving mallet (mine is probably a leather mallet) or a small light standard hammer, not a hammer I would use for scale miniatures; just a hammer that is smaller in our life size world, then bring tail stock to the other end and tighten. Check to Make sure it turns without interference with your tool rest by turning manually, and then, you should be able to start turning. Regarding the alternate accessories for holding wood, a 4 jaw chuck will work, but I don't think it is necessary... I have one for my metal lathe, but not for the Jet, I have not needed one so far for the jet wood lathe... If I were turning with a larger diameter in life size, then Yes, I think I may want a 4 jaw chuck, but except for tool handles for my gravers I have not turned anything in life size yet. FYI: if readers do not know...A 4 jaw chuck allows you to use square stock; a 3 jaw chuck allows you to use round stock (dowel rods). Check out You Tube or books for mounting wood on your spur drive. Holly, do you have the same HF lathe? These lathes are loads better then the Dremel. Oh, I forgot - on my mini list is to turn a chest set... CollieFeathers on the fine miniatures forum turned a set and it is incredible! I love turning metal & wood!

Thanks for sharing those beautiful table legs! They look very steady for the cooking activities.

kokomo, can you post a photo or a link to the same lathe that you bought from HF? Is it a mini wood lathe or a mini metal lathe? If it is wood lathe, you should be able to turn scale miniatures, just as I turned hat stands on my Jet mini variable speed wood lathe. While it is mini for the rest of the world, it is a large lathe for turning 1/12th scale miniatures. Turning long objects like a bed post that is one piece will likely require a steady rest on any lathe... so a 5" or greater bed post turned to small diameters is likely to snap... yep, already tried the Sheraton bed post and at least I was not successful. I definitely snapped several bed posts on my Taig lathe. eBay item number: 222984776563 This jet is newer then mine... but very similar setup. This is a photo is similar to my lathe, and it shows a MT2 taper 4 prong Spur Drive and live center tailstock. I was using standard woodworking turning equipment and turned hat stands with tiny diameters between the crown and the base. I have snapped 3" hat stands, but I have also been successful turning 3" hat stands on my jet.

(Evidently I've lost the permission to edit my post.) So to clarify, I have had difficulty learning to sharpen lathe tools... it is not been happy, and throwing money at different sharpening equipment has not been very effective... so working from my experience I do recommend that you find someone who can sharpen lathe turning tools well, or spend the time to learn to sharpen them yourself. I tend to go all in and want independence. I may cave and have someone sharpen my lathe turning tools. I bought my Sorby(s) micro turning tools on eBay; I did buy my tools used. Of the 5 tools, I use three more frequently: the 1/4" gouge, the 1/4" skew chisel and the 1/16" parting tool, and then a much wider skew chisel. If I knew what I was doing, paying for non used tools wouldn't phase me, but since I am a beginner, I see nothing wrong with cutting my teeth with used tools. When you look at photos on line, you can see if they have been cared for or not. Each wood turner will find the turning tools that make them happy. Lathes are just super fun, and except for eye protection and a dust mask, they are relatively safe, if you are apprehensive about power tools. I feel safe with a lathe, safe with a bandsaw, safe with a miter saw, ok with a router, but it is the table saw that I approach with lots of caution and the internal safety checklist before I turn it on. I do use my little preac saw and the micro mark tilting arbor saw without apprehension, it is just the full size table saw that puts the brake on my mini projects. There are soooooo many books and there are wood turning clubs all over the globe, and You Tube, and DVDs for purchase, so the skills are easy to pick up without a lot of formal training. Although I didn't go the route of a turning club, it is in the background, just my closest club is in Michigan and more then an hour to travel to/from, so I have chose to spend the time at home. Although dear husband is a cabinetmaker by trade, I actually have more hours then he does on the lathe, but he is so gifted, and he has that magic touch when it comes to wood, so what comes natural to him when he is turning, I have had to put in my hours and practiced! Someday I'll post all the rejects... I keep them; as they remind me of the experience that I have gained. I found them the other day when I was digging out my taig lathe. Good Luck! I don't have that many years experience, but if I can help let me know.

My observation is that Taig Lathes are generally much less expensive on eBay. correction: Taig lathes are NOT much less expensive on eBay.

Keifer, if you purchase a metal lathe you can turn wood or metal with the the correct accessories. I have a jet mini wood turning lathe and a Taig Lathe (metal & wood). Here is my post about my first 100 hours. http://www.fineminiaturesforum.com/topic/738-using-a-wood-lathe-the-first-100-hours/ Hmmm... what can you make on a lathe in wood? The list is only limited by your imagination. Porch posts, spindles, bed posts, bowls, vase, lamp bases, tiny spools of thread, HAT STANDS, Stands for mannequins, cake stands, legs for tables, candlesticks, round table tops, wheels, round window frame, or round molding... what can you make on a lathe in metal? bed posts, lamp parts, oil can, candlesticks, ornate turning for mannequin bases, parts for chandeliers, wheels, miniature cans (to apply labels to), door knobs, turn copper for pans...miniature screws to assemble your parts... any round part made of steel, aluminum, brass, cooper, etc, etc... and parts for miniature tools, too. http://www.fineminiaturesforum.com/topic/444-detailed-photos-of-my-needlepoint-stand-and-thread-holder-for-guild-school-2015/ These two classes for the needlework stand and accessory holder, were my introduction to a lathe from a miniature perspective at Guild School. I was definitely green walking into the class, but I did talk with Mr. Robertson first and told him that I was green and he was OK with my lack of experience... interpret this as I shouldn't have too many bad habits. I learned sooooo much in those 48 hours of classes... nothing like diving in whole heartedly. 3 years later, I am continuing to perfect those 3 turnings... but I am much closer - and this is my hope for these 3 day weekend to continue to work on this project. The following year we did candlesticks, and while I was better, now 3 years later, I would be much more comfortable in his classes. He instructs how to make precise matching turnings on the Taig Lathe without a duplicator. The precision that is demonstrated is amazing, so I have to keep reminding myself that I have only been working for a couple of summers, the first summer I spent setting up my lathe and adding accessories, ordering parts and figuring out what I needed to get back to the same setup that I had at Guild School, so really last summer I started working on the project in earnest and hopefully, now with this summers attempt I will finish the needlework stand. 2016 Mr. Robertson's classes were a working wood plane and candlesticks... we turned a screw to assemble the cutter to the wood plane's body. I have purchased most all my equipment on Craigs List or eBay. My observation is that Taig Lathes are generally much less expensive on eBay. Pete Boorum (Smaller then Life) is a great place to order your Taig, and I purchase my accessories from him. I do not recommend a Dremel lathe, not to be judgemental, but spending a few hundred dollars is well spent on a Taig lathe vs. the cost of the irritation you have in mounting and keeping wood on a dremel lathe. It was my first lathe... don't make my mistake, even if it is $30 it is so difficult to hold wood on this lathe, that free is still too much money. There are many makerspaces that have woodworking equipment, so go learn to turn a life size pen and see if you enjoy it. You may also find a Sherline, and I have never turned on a sherline; they have wonderful accessories, so if you see a sherline inexpensively buy it! This not meant to offend Dremel lathe owners. I have lots of dremel equipment that is wonderful. I really enjoy my Jet and my Taig lathes and I missed a Taig lathe at an estate sale literally by seconds so it could easily happen in the Chicago area. Just be patient and watch the auction listings, newspaper adds, eBay and Craigslist. #1 activity if you sincerely want to have a life-long attachment to a lathe, is that you need to learn to sharpen your tools. Since I didn't do this first, I am suffering, so while you wait for a great deal on a lathe, find a sharpening master in your community and learn what a sharp lathe tool really is... and you will be a much happier wood turning student. Turning metals require sharpening a tool bit, and it different activity too, but this one isn't as difficult for me then learning to cut my wood lathe turning tools. http://www.rockler.com/robert-sorby-micro-turning-set?sid=V9146?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content={adtype}&utm_campaign=PL&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI)%20Shopping%20-%20Wood%20Turning&msclkid=a58d8efca9491c5218ded5faa2fa85b6

From Keifer: I have aspirations of working on a wood lathe. I just haven’t found a way to make that happen just yet (financially). What specifically do you do on the lathe? Anything you can share (pics)