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Soapz

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  1. Soapz
    1. Open the file in paint. In this one, I use the inch setting to see how big the design is of the paper: almost 6 inches x 8 inches - so it is way too big.
    2. I use the resize function in the home tab to reduce the size. I chose 30% - that should reduce the sample to 1 3/4 inches by 2 1/4 inches  - that translates to 1 3/4ft by 2 1/4 ft - looks about right.
    3. Use "select all" function and copy function. 
    4. Change the paper size - I use 17x11 - legal - that's what I print on 
    5. Go to the View tab - and zoom in until the original design appears pixelated and paste. Then move the copied part into  position - you can use the arrow keys to move it and match the pixels.
    6. Repeat until the full length of you paper size is filled.
    7. Use the select all - copy function and repeat the pattern across the paper
    8,. On this one, the pattern is offset - so I had to add to the bottom of the second column. After the second column, I can copy and paste until the end of my paper. 
    9. Zoom out and make sure it looks correct to you in terms of pattern size and try to imagine if you could see that on your wall. If it seems too large - reduce the size in 10% increments until the pattern has a size that looks correct.
    What helps me:
    Zooming in until you see pixels as little squares helps with matching offset patterns - you can line up better and use the arrow keys to move the copied design one pixel in any needed direction.
     
     









  3. Soapz
    So, here is Step 1:
    Cut the brass banding to exact size so that the edges meet and not overlap
    Bend the banding to a circle - use any tool available like a mandrel or a round wood dowel - I used my fingers. There should be no kinks when you solder. We are aiming for a thin solder connection, so bending after it is soldered might break it.





    This is the banding I used. It was a bit hard to bend, has a tendency to kink - but I made it work.




    This is the glass dome I used. I liked the size and I think it will be just perfect as one of those upside down chandelier thingies...
  5. Soapz
    Another option - and more or less the one I chose for the light base is using an existing light fixture. One like this for example:




    My thoughts behind it are rather economical in nature.

    Last year I bought 4 hanging globe lights for $6.50 plus $2.50 in shipping. That's $9.00 for four lights - nothing I make can beat that. So, with the help of my trusted hair-dryer I took them apart..... I now have:

    - four white glass globes to be used for something else (make that three because I just broke one...)
    - four chains that I can use
    - four brass tips from the bottom of the globes
    - four flame tip bulbs - already wired with plugs.

    And another option is to buy grain of wheat LEDs pre-wired and try to make something out of them.

    The pre-wired LEDs have a rather thick protective shrink plastic cover over the connection points which makes them somewhat bulky.




    While I had no issue removing the plastic




    The only brass tube I found to cover the base of the bulb to make it look like a fitted fixture was 3/16 and did look a bit too .... I don't know what to call it - it just didn't look right.





    I tried to ways of using it, but none of them made me really happy...





    I used a finish washer and a short piece of brass tube to hold the bulb centered. While this idea certainly has merit - it does need more work to look right.

    I also thought about using a long piece of brass tube that would attach to the ceiling adapter, and then attach the dome with chains - still didn't look right:





    That's when I decided to use the flame bulb from the globes:

    One copper tube and a bead later:











    That's what it will look like:



  6. Soapz
    Decide which way you want to attach the banding to the top of the dome. As you can see there is definite discoloration, I will repaint that part and age the brass anyways to give the chandelier a more authentic look.

    Here is a close up of the soldered connection... not too bad for a beginner I think...







    Coffee break - which way to go....






    I decided to go with this version - it looks better in my opinion...





  7. Soapz
    I used glue to attach the soldered banding in place. I also added a picture of a previous attempt with a different brass banding, although I wasn't too happy with the results. But, as I know no shame at all - I will share those sad, sad results with you all.




    This one here has also a soldered banding with a circle thingy I got from JarJaf to attach chains. All of it is glued in place and has held up very well so far.








    Looking at all three of them, I think I'm on the right course with my 2nd experiment.



  8. Soapz
    So, I have raided my friends car shop for parts and I have found useful stuff.




    How to make the bulb base:

    there are several options that I played with:
    1. Using crimp connectors and cut them in half. I used the blue one with a finish washer and threaded the LED through it. Painted it with faux brass - looks okay.





    2. I used a wired bulb with base from HobbyLobby and half a green connector (without the metal squeezy part). Same as above, although I will get a bigger finish washer for that bulb base.







    While these fixtures need more finishing, I intentionally left them as they are so that you can see what is what.

    These two variations definitely look promising, however, I did not like them for the dome lights I have in mind.
  9. Soapz

    Step 2.... and it continues

    By Soapz,

    When the banding is shaped, use the third hand tool to hold the banding together at the cut edges and apply flux very thinly. I used a needle tip on my soldering iron and heated the banding from the inside of the circle while applying the solder on top of the banding. Solder runs toward heat, so all I did was swipe the solder along the joint and it applied really thin.

    Important: You really need to use flux - all other attempts at soldering brass together didn't hold.

    I used this one - bought it at the hardware store and it does the job:




    I chose the thinner solder that came with the iron





    My third hands set up - although it would make it third and fourth hands.... it gets hot - no way you can hold the part, the iron and the solder....




    You can see how I used the iron from underneath the gap - and you can see how the brass changes color from the heat



  10. Soapz
    A probably endless material list....

    Making of glass dome chandelier: testing what can be done....

    Materials used:

    Glass dome (available on etsy) - different styles, 'lids' are also available.
    Brass banding (JarJaf)
    Brass tubing
    Crimp connectors
    Finish washer
    LED wired, Bulbs wired
    Bits and pieces

    Tools used:

    Soldering Iron
    Flux
    Solder (thinnest you can find)
    Third Hand tool (I actually used two...)
    K&S Tube cutter
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