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Generally, dollhouses are wired at 12v. LED lights operate at 3v. You will need to step the voltage down to 3V or wire them separately and have two power supplies.

You can also see another difference between the two plug versions. The 1004, as I have here, you can see the wire enters from the side and then you push the pin in through the back, all the way through. With the 1004-2, the wire would be entering in the back and glued in place, so the 1004-2 would actually look a bit more like a real plug. I think I am going to pick up some 1004-2 and try them out. I just brushed Minwax put Dark Walnut stain on the table. Any variations in the stain are just happenstance. These kits haven't been made in a long time, but you can still find them on eBay for $10 to $30. If you came up with a table, I could duplicate mine for you, no charge, other than shipping. I stained the table, then gloss coated/sanded a few times. Then sanded one more time and put the black rectangle on. Then put the gold outline around the black rectangle, then gloss/sanded a few more times. My inspiration, were the photos on this page: http://www.burrellsantiquedesks.com/antique-tables/sold-antique-writing-library-tables.htm The black should really be a piece of leather, but since this was my first go at it, I just painted it. The globe came from miniatures.com. This is the library room. I took the large book case, also from the same kit, out of the picture since I had put in some support braces to hold the chandelier in place while the glue dried.

Thanks! I made it from the Realife Miniatures Library kit.

Here is a outlet and cover I just installed in the ongoing renovation. I see no reason that all corded electrics shouldn't be plugged into these little things. Just paint the cover to match the decor if brass doesn't work for you.

Those blue clamps are rather useless. The only thing I find myself using them for, is taking them apart and using them as small right angles. This is what I use: Different sizes of binder clips. Cheap and useful for a million things but definitely helps out when putting windows and furniture kits together. Enough pressure to hold the piece together but not enough to dent the wood. Jorgensen 4½" Micro Clamp (what I use in place of the blue clamps) About $5 a piece You probably won't need these but I have a lot of 2" and 3" pony clamps that I use at times when something really needs to be tight or encouraged to stay in place. They are a couple bucks a piece. Blue painter's tape. You need this for renovation painting but take enough of it and you can hold things together pretty tight when gluing. Lastly, I use these to weigh things down or into place. Warped floor boards, for example. I also use them to create 90 degree angles when gluing things together. They are great at forcing thin warped pieces to dry flat. 1-2-3 Machinist Blocks, about $15 for 2. They are 1" x 2" x 3", hence the name. Each weighs 1lb 11oz

Note that I placed my CK1003 into a recessed area of the baseboard that I carved out. When stuck into the wall through tapewire, they will stick out more than what you see on mine. I have ordered some more plugs and brass covers for another house that will be plugged into tape wire. I will take a picture of it setup as soon as they arrive since the rooms are finished, waiting for the outlets and covers. With the CK1004, you push the stripped wire through a hole in the back of the plug. You then push the pin into the plug which makes lasting contact with the wire via pressure. With the CK1004-2, it would seem you have to glue the wire in once putting it into the hollow tube. The CK1004 is going to have a better connection, fwiw. With the CK1004, you could also put a drop of super glue in place, before pushing the pins in and end up with the same result at the ck1004-2. This way, you also wouldn't have the pins coming out of the plug when unplugging frequently.

Yes, the CK1003-2 is even smaller than the CK1003. I also don't believe it has a cover. I've used the CK1003 and CK1004 and they look great. You can see them in use, in my picture, here: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/uploads/monthly_2016_01/large.IMG_0765.JPG.1b026b5671ff9d658345d685afd6ac42.JPG I installed them directly into the baseboard, a clear code violation but I won't allow any building inspectors around. I soldered round wire to them but they are intended to be stuck into tape wire. The plug and outlet are finicky though. The plug really sticks tight in the outlet so if you find yourself plugging and unplugging a lot, you'll end up needing needlenose pliers to pull out the small rod that came out of the plug and got stuck in the outlet. Then you'll have to reassemble the wire in the plug. That is my experience with them but they do look so much better than the standard plug that comes on lamps.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Hand up here! I do.

I never use eyelets to attach round wire to tape wire. I remove a small square of plastic from the tape wire and solder the round wire to the tape wire. In fact, I solder tape wire to tape wire. Put a bit of solder on the bottom tape, put the top tape down and heat them together. I get a stronger and flatter connection. Less of a "bump" to conceal.