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oddity123

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About oddity123

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    Female
  • Location
    Cleveland, OH
  • Interests
    Cats, books

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  • Real Name
    Valerie
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    United States

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  1. OMG I have been looking EVERYWHERE for these! I haven't figured out how to send a PM on here yet, but as soon as I do you'll hear from me!!
  2. I'm kind of in the same boat as you. After I did the dry fit, I was paralyzed with indecision about how to go about it. Here's a few helpful blogs I found. http://minisontheedge.blogspot.com/2008/12...hose-wires.html http://www.dollhouseminiatures.net/annabelle/index.html I'm in the process now, and thought I knew what I was doing. HAH! I got the "ceiling tiles" for the formal living room, but when I realized they were plastic, I realized I'd have to poke/wire/etc. before finishing them. I just bought a chandelier adapter today to play with, maybe that'll help. I'm wiring as I construct (sounds weird, but I think it'll work) and so far have the main walls up & wired, but haven't installed the second floor. I'm putting the tapewire on the cieleing, then papering the ceiling, THEN installing the floor. If all goes OK, I plan to do the same with the 3rd floor. I simply over-did the wiring, running verticals up every wall everywhere it seemed to make sense, then running the tape crosswise about 1" above the floor (outlet height) and 2" below the ceiling (sconce height) in every room. On the ceilings, I'm making sure to put wiring down the center of every room to accomodate a chandelier or overhead globe, and leaving a "trailer" of 9-11" hanging at the edge, to run down and connect to the wiring that's already on the walls. I'll keep you posted as to whether this all works. To plan all this, I printed a photo of my dry fit, then actually DREW on it with pencil. Then I went to the dry-fit house and drew those lines on the actual house (so that when I took it back apart, I could tell where I'd intended wires to go). Hope this helps.
  3. So I found solutions for MOST of the windows - although just about every single window in the place has its own unique measurements. I'm still thinking about the 12 tower windows, though - they're only 1" wide, and I just can't find anything working that is that small. Even the half-scale stuff is too big. Any thoughts?
  4. Wow, all I do on here is post questions when I'm befuddled. I have one really warped wall and one really warped attic floor for my Pierce. I'm having LOTS of trouble with the dry fit (by the way, who comes up with a build time like 12 hrs? I think I've spent that much time punching stuff out and sanding the edges!). Of course, it doesn't help that the slots are usually a bit small, but my dremmel takes care of that. Is it posible to "force" the boards to lie straight and flat by gluing and taping them till it dries? Or is there some other approach I can take? I just keep picturing me having it all "together" and a wall corner springing out from the tension of the warp.
  5. I'm hoping someone can give me the dimensions and quantities of all the Pierce windows. I'm considering my options but want to know how many of what complexity I'm dealing with before jumping it. What I'd love to do is get all working windows as a kit that already fit, but since that's not gonna happen..... :lol: I've seen people making their own working windows to fit the Pierce, but this is my first (and possibly ONLY since I'm a perfectionist, working full time, have a baby on the way and have only assembled the foundation in 6 mos) I want them to be great and I think that might be beyond my skill level. I've looked at Palladian-style windows that are arched, but I fear the fit wouldn't be right since the arch looks like it has a different apex. I've also seen people with completely different (i.e. not the ones meant for the Pierce) purchased windows, which I guess I could make work by using my dremmel to enlarge the openings. How hard is that to do, any one who's done it? If so, which windows did you get? I'm also investigating working doors - anyone installed purchased working doors, and if so, which ones and how did it go?
  6. Yeah, this is *kind of* my first build. My mom and I worked on one when I was a kid (which has since bee if thn destroyed) but my wonderful hubby just got me the pierce for my birthday. I was actually thinking about using some pre-assembled pieces to supplement the architecture - a porch rail and the spiral staircase that I've seen some others use. I've been looking at the painted ladies books, but I still have a hard time visualizing what I want. I'll try the sherwin-williams tool and see if that helps. Any ideas on windows?
  7. There are so many options! I have a Pierce, and I want to really do it up. I'm thinking additional gingerbread, maybe replacing the porch rail with its fake spindles with something more grand and ornate. But how do I choose? And there's so many color choices - I definately want to include purple and bright white, and I think I want dark shingles, but I don't know. I kind of want the "layer-cake" look, so I don't know if I should just paint the walls, or use siding, or painted shingles..... I want to have a good idea of how it'll go on before I start. Any ideas for planning? I'm very visual, and wish I could "see" it before committing paint to wood! Also, I REALLY want the window upgrade with the working windows, but I hear it's out of production. Anyone have any tips on which working windows would fit the pierce?
  8. OK, I only have the foundation and stairs constructed so far, but I'm already dreaming about adding an office/den. Any advice about an add-on kit for the Pierce? And where/how does it go onto the main house?
  9. Argh! I just finished the staircase, and I have to say, the replys so far to this post did not help me in the process (even the blog, sorry!). The pictures in the instructions are unclear and not close-up enough to do much good. Here are a few tips I discovered while putting it together: * many of the stair slots are not deep or square enough. Use a razor knife and file to deepen them (make sure that you fit each one on before gluing to test its fit) * the lower section requires that the risers go on top of the stair below them to make the next one flush. HOWEVER, after that, the riser needs to be glued slightly BEHIND the stair below it; otherwise, the stair above it will be too high and they won't all fit. . That's not mentioned AT ALL in the instructions, resulting in a bunch of frusteration and three take-apart-and-try-agains for me. * Putting the side of the top section on is a pain. There needs to be a good size gap between the notch cut out of it and the side of the middle front (the banister slides in here at the end) - this is also not mentioned in the instructions. The pieces are so thin that there's not really any way to put the glue on neatly, so just kind of glob a bunch of hot glue on the INSIDE BOTTOM edge - it'll be covered any way. * it's REALLY hard to get the second landing level - it's just cantilevered out there. Prop something under it as the glue dries, or like me, you'll end up with a huge gap under the first riser above it (I just filled this with wood fill and it'll look fine once it's painted, since that side goes up against a wall) GOOD LUCK!
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