doc

I'm looking at the space above the 3rd floor to the bottom of the eave at the back, and it looks like there's a kneewall at the front that matches that amount of space. That's not a dimension of any of the Real Good Toys' Dollhouse Center colonials (which is what has many similarities to this house) There are a great number of similarities... the layout of the front, the colonial addition, the dormers (while an old style for Real Good Toys, this style dormer could have been pre '88) as well as the grooved construction (which became the norm after '88, so for Real Good Toys, those would have been different eras). I am inspired by jdodyd's post about the Simplicity, though... that could certainly be a Simplicity addition, and the Simplicity floor-to-ceiling is 9" so, if it is a Simplicity addition, that seems to match the house floor-to-ceiling suggesting it too is 9", and the Dollhouse Center houses made by Real Good Toys had 9 7/16 floor-to-ceilings. There are more nit-picky things, but the bottom line is that it is a well-made house and one worthy of ownership.

No, that's not a Real Good Toys kit. it looks like a great place to start, though!

I have a bunch of shorts... what do you need?

Coming up with these or smooth substitutes would not be impossible, but you would have to make sure everything (everything!) else is in the box... count; label; mark it off the list; Here is the list of clapboard pieces: 2) 15" 3) 8 1/2 3) 7 3/4 5) 6 18) 3 1/8 36) 2 12) 1 3/8 10) 1 1/4

These walls are made of pieces 1 1/2 tall with 3 clapboards and tongue-and-groove top/bottom:

I found a dab of the material in the photos... I'm pretty sure it's early '80s Batrie (when Harvard Table Tennis owned the company), but I am not 100% on that. How does this stack up (literally) compared to the Duracraft?

I am a huge fan of an oscillating multitool for cutting dollhouse walls apart after construction... I have taken out attic endwalls in a colonial dollhouse without disrupting anything else in the build... I use it all the time for electrification slots... it's versatile and gentle, and I use it on most of the houses I customize (my jig saw is lost and lonely in the cupboard). https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Multi-Max-Oscillating-Accessories-Refurbished/dp/B00JZYQRE0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1517080886&sr=8-8&keywords=oscillating+multitool doc

Jackie is spot-on about heat to take things apart but beware around plastic window panes... if you want to re-use them keep the heat off. I cut plugs out of corrugated cardboard that fit between the jamb. I also use aluminum foil to protect adjacent areas and to focus heat where I want it. I try to heat to a temperature I can touch but not leave my hand on for long, then wait for the heat to penetrate to the glue down in the joint... several minutes for 1/8" and more as the wood gets thicker. I also love the slimmest cake-icing spatula for taking the heat into the joint and lifting away parts as they are ready. Taking things apart takes time and patience but the results are certain with heat.

The real value of any dollhouse is to you or your 'family', and it comes from the time and love you put into it... Ebay doesn't care but anyone your dollhouse touches will care... so make the house your own and make it a reflection of your dream for it. Besides, it isn't really yours until you change it.

I reviewed the heritage instructions on Jim's Print Minis and imagine the siding is 1 1/2 tall and 7/32 thick (about 3/16"). If so it may be the same as what Model Homes used (Yeh, older than dirt) and I may have a little of that... I'll look, but it may be under an awful lot of junk so it may take a while.

Great advice here! Stacked milled molding is a challenge as Holly mentioned... I use Liner Paper to bridge the seems on the inside as it holds up better over time than spackle, which will crack as the stacked molding expands and contracts seasonally. I use Liner Paper over tapewire anyway if I am going to paint, but not if I am wallpapering. I seldom wallpaper until the house is completed, but I leave out walls that hide spaces in front, and wallpaper in front first then add the screening wall. I paint everything at least one coat before construction, as sanding after the first coat is the most important thing in getting a great final finish, and you can't really sand a fully assembled dollhouse. I much prefer tapewire in new construction as it allows adding fixtures in the future... roundwire either feeds in-place fixtures or leaves an outlet so the fixture is energized by wire strung in the room, which I don't like. Tapewire is easy and fast, and can be designed to be very reliable (see www.dollhousewiring.com) and you can run it everywhere anyone will want a fixture any time in the future.

Hi All Today I am looking for Madison instructions. Does anyone have a set to share? Thanks!

I believe you are correct, all but the door - thanks! I have Columbian instructions

Hi All Has anyone finished their tiffany and saved the instructions? I have a friend who has one without any Thanks! doc

I have a coleague who needs the instructions... any chance I could be the appreciative recipient? http://www.pinterest.com/pin/4925880813915812/