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Posts posted by Khadi
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I use the vinyl tiles that look like stone that you can get at Home Depot. I bought a vinyl floor cutter and use vinyl tile grout. They look like real stone. (Sorry, no matter how hard I try, I can not get my pictures to be only 10.58 KB.)
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Can you heat it with a hair dryer to soften it? I don't know how this works for wax, but it works well with glue.
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The rooms on the right side are fairly good-sized. The rooms on the left side are very small.
These are quick rough estimates in inches going from left to right on each floor. Rooms are measured length times depth.
First Floor
Left Room 1: 7 x 11 Center Hall: 7.5 x 13.5 Right Room 3: 11.5 x 15 (I reconfigured the downstairs so that my walls are straight. I think the Center Hall cuts into the room on the right in the original floor plan.)
Second Floor
Left Room 1: 7x11 Center Hall: 8.75 x 13.5 Right Room 3: 10.75x 15
Third Floor
Left Room 1: 5.25 x 9.5 Center Hall: 7.75 x 13.5 Right Room 3: 10.25 x 13 (the back wall cuts in slightly on the left side.
Sorry these are not exact, but I hope this is helpful.
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I like to use acrylic gloss paint for ceilings or because it reflects the light and makes the rooms brighter. I also use it for trim work.
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On 4/29/2021 at 11:23 PM, Call Me Crazy said:
I doubt it's mold, but have no idea what caused the spots. Here's something you can try:
Soak a cloth in some hydrogen peroxide and dab onto all of the dark spots. Let dry overnight and be amazed! Repeat as needed. For larger, darker stains, you can leave a hydrogen peroxide soaked towel over the area for a few hours and then remove and let dry.
This is an aside to the dollhouse topic, but this works amazingly well for pet stains on wood floors. I used this to get rid of cat urine stains when I discovered my cat was secretly urinating on the rug under my bed due to a health issue. After two rounds of spraying the hardwood floor with hydrogen peroxide and covering with a hydrogen peroxide soaked towel, both the odor and most of the stain were gone.
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I can't speak to siding other than that the MDF is a pain to try and cut. I will say the Greenleaf siding that came with my Beacon Hill makes great rustic wide plank floors.
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I measure the wallpaper to fit the walls from floor to ceiling but don't paste it in until after I glue the walls. That way I can make sure the patterns in the wall paper match up between the different pieces. It's important to cut the wallpaper for the side walls a little longer so that you can wrap it around the corner to the back wall. You want the pattern to match up to hide the seam on the back wall. If you don't wrap and stop at the corner, you will have visible seams.
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I use polyurethane and have never had a problem with yellowing.
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On 2/27/2021 at 10:21 PM, KatFord said:
The plastic tiles? That's one of the things I was wondering about, the seam. Thanks for the feedback!
Kim
Yes. Those are the ones.
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I used this a few years back for a large roof. The roof itself didn't look bad, but I didn't like the overall appearance. Perhaps it was my inexperience with the material or my impatience, but I had a hard time getting the seam between the two pieces I used to look nice.
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I've sold and purchased kits on Ebay. You can set it up for local buyers only so that you don't have to deal with shipping.
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I have also used Ebay to sell dollhouses. They have a "local pick up only" option so you don't have to deal with shipping. They take a cut of the money, but the person has to pay in advance. This is nice if your dealing in larger amounts of money, and it prevents dealing with buyers who never bother to show up. It also increases your range of people looking. I've had people come from a few hours away to pick things up.
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On 2/9/2021 at 5:14 PM, KatFord said:
I've tried a heat gun. Didn't do anything but burn the wood. I must have glued the heck out of that wood, it's the only piece I haven't been able to remove. Thanks
Kim
I use an old hair dryer to remove glue. It takes a bit longer to soften the glue, but there's less risk of it doing damage.
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I find a hair dryer is an easy way to remove hot glue.
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The wood on Greenleaf houses is very easy to cut for bashing. I've added and removed doors, windows, and walls for a variety of reasons. I use a fine-tooth saw or my Dremel with a rotary woodcutting blade. I would just hold the new pieces up to the existing locations and make sure that you are comfortable with the increased opening sizes. One thing I would check is the angle of the stairs. Greenleaf houses often have lower ceilings than a lot of the premade staircases allow for so you can end up with an odd angle for stairs or having little floor space at the bottom.
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I may have some. I replaced several of my Beacon Hill windows with other windows. Do you have a picture of what you need?
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I put mine on inexpensive desks I purchased off of Amazon because they are in my basement family room. If you want something a little classier but don't want to pay for new furniture, check out yard sales or flea markets.
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I have had most success on Ebay. I just list it as local pickup only as I don't want to deal with trying to ship a dollhouse.
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I actually have two wood-burning fireplaces but don't use either of them for a variety of reasons. I like the suggestion, though. I might ask a colleague who likes wood fires if he wants it for kindling. Thanks.
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Like many, I save the extra wood when I pop the pieces out to make Greenleaf dollhouses. That pile of wood scraps has gotten too big, and I need to get rid of it. If there is anyone in the Northern Va area who would like some or all of it, there welcome to it. Otherwise, I will be throwing it out. PM if your interested.
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I don't glue because I move furniture between dollhouses. I can't afford to furnish them all.
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Thank you for posting this. I lost my schematics somewhere along the way and have been using screens shots of schematics from someone's Facebook page that were often incomplete pages. This will be much easier to work from.
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I haven't built any of these, but the average depth of the porches on the houses that I have built is 3-4 inches so you can probably just subtract that off of the total measurement from the dollhouses pages to approximate the room sizes.
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I have only built the Shadybrook Cabin, but it's ceiling height is between 8 1/9 and 9 inches high for the lower level and the loft above is about 7 inches at the peak. You just glue the floor supports in so you have some flexibility on how high you want the ceiling to be. It's fairly spacious inside. I gave it a complete second floor and put in a small flight of stairs and still had plenty of room. I can't speak specifically to the other ones, but most of the smaller houses that I have built have ceilings that are 8 to 9 inches high.
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Tips for a stone floor (was: Beacon Hill dollhouse)
in General Mini Talk
Posted
Thank you. I had no idea that you could delete attachments. I had pictures going back for years.