genemini

There are two listings of the instructions on eBay right now, priced at $7.99. Just go to eBay dollhouse miniatures and type Duracraft Tudor . f

You have probably solved the problem of the large grommets coming through to the other side but if you haven’t this might help. I am building the Willow with the thin walls. My son cut the large grommets down by using a toothpick to hold the grommet. He then mounted a Dremel tool with a grinding wheel in a vise. This method allowed him to grind the grommet to the right length. Just be sure to wear safety glasses or goggles. No problem inserting the grommet using a Bambam.

“ Dollhouse Lighting, Electrification in Miniature” by Barbara Warner is a very good one. She shows how to do both tape wire and round wire. The book was published on 1986 and is out of print now. However I still see it for sale. When I built my first dollhouse I knew nothing about building one. I chose the tape wire system and it has worked beautifully- everything still works after 25 years. I owe it to this book because I did it all by myself.

I have the same problem. My plan is to erect a false wall a short distance away from the window on the inside. I will wallpaper the new wall facing the window and put a very narrow table or bench and hang a picture and perhaps a lighted candle on the table. On the window itself my plan is to hang draperies with a deep swag so the space between the panels is narrow. That way I’ll have a nice blank wall in the room, more space for furniture placement. It’s all working in a trial fit.

Not sure about spraying wallpaper after it is hung. In Barbara Warner’s book, “The ABC’s of Dollhouse Finishing” she advises using a clear spray matte acrylic. She suggests spraying front and back with several coats. I have followed her advice on all my wallpaper. I use Krylon. It is completely invisible and doesn’t change the wallpaper’s appearance. One of my dollhouses is over twenty years old and the wallpaper looks brand new. Whether this would solve your problem I don’t know.

Thanks for all your input. I am planning to run electrical wires for candles down table legs or furniture sides and wondered whether to have the tape connections be under the flooring or a ceiling medallion below. Thinking medallions might be the way to go. Ideas anyone?

Thanks. That makes sense in real life houses but what about in dollhouses.?

I am wondering about ceiling medallions. What purpose do they serve, other than being decorative?

Thank you so much. That makes sense. I like the idea of using a small paint brush for glue. I use a syringe or a toothpick for gluing but neither of these seemed to be right for this application. What a dickens squaring the first floor and partition to the front wall. With the help of heavy books, stone bookends and lots of tape it is drying as I write this. Your quick reply to my question sure helped me get that done tonight. Thanks again.

Your Willow is really great. I have a question. I just started the Willow I am at the stage of gluing the first floor to the front, that’s going fine but the instructions say not to glue the partition to the front wall yet. In reading ahead I never see where the instructions call for gluing the first and second floors partitions to the front wall. Why shouldn’t you glue the partitions to the front when you glue the floors in? Seems like it would be hard to get such a small bead of glue on the partition edge without making a mess. What did you do? Thanks

i have made many of the HOM kits. Most of them just mention using their finishing kit, which contain a glaze. However on two of my kits, the Chippendale Drawer Chest #40011 and the Side Chair #40007 they suggest an alternate glaze. VAN DYCK BROWN is the color they recommend. I purchased mine from Rockler. Believe me it makes all the difference. I have used Mini Wax Red Mahogany stain and it turns out beautiful - not at all red. My kits have all been purchased on ebay. The dates on the instructions for these two are both 1978 so I suspect they were some of the first ones produced. None of the later kits include this information in their finishing instructions. I do also use Mini Wax wood conditioner before I apply the stain. This is the sequence that I use: First sand with 220, 320 sand paper, then a brown sack. Wipe with a tack cloth. Apply Wood conditioner, wipe off after 5 minutes. Within 2 hours apply stain, leave on 10 min., wipe off. Sand 220, 320, then brown sack. wait 4 to 6 hours then repeat with the stain, leave on for 5-10 min. wipe off. Wait overnight then rub with brown sack. Now apply 1 coat of Delft Satin Clear Wood finish, wait 2 hrs. Lightly go over surface with Grade 000 steel wool until smooth to the touch. Wipe with tack cloth. Now apply 1 coat of VanDyke Brown Glaze Effects with a foam brush- wipe off with clean cloth. Wait 24 hours then wipe with a clean cloth thoroughly and briskly until you like it. Now apply Delft Satin Clear Wood Finish two or more coats, lightly buffing between coats with Grade 000 steel wool. It is very important to make sure all the steel wool dust is removed between coats. I know this seems like a lot of trouble but it is well worth your time if you want a beautiful piece.

I am just starting to build the Willow. Have done the dry fit and have decided to use Housework windows instead of the kit ones. I know that I will need to enlarge the openings but I have a question about the position. Should I use the lower level of the cutout in the kit for my lower level on the window or should I make the cutout evenly bigger all around? That would make the window be lower on the outside and I am wondering if that would make them too close to the foundation. Any help would be most appreciated.