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About wormwoodz

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Profile Information

  • Gender Female
  • Location Portugal
  • Interests Houses built: Fairfield 1:24

    Working on: Beacon Hill 1:12, Chantilly 1:24

    Possible future builds: Duracraft Heritage, RGT Lincoln Springfield

    Favorite Greenleaf&Corona Kits: Beacon Hill, Fairfield, Willowcrest, Lily, Westville, Rosedale

Previous Fields

  • Dollhouse Building Experience One
  • Dollhouse Preference I like them both
  • Online Community Building Projects No
  • Digital Camera Yes
  • Real Name Ashley
  • Country Please Select

Recent Profile Visitors

4638 profile views
  1. Hi!  I'm currently building the Fairfield, and yours is so gorgeous, it's a huge inspiration for me!  I hope you don't mind if I model mine very closely to yours.  Imitation being the sincerest form of flattery, and all that. :bigwink:

  2. Antique Cathedral

    This is a really interesting piece, have you managed to find more information about its origins? Looks like an architectural model to me, maybe it was even based on a real existing building. Judging by the looks, the shapes of the windows and roofs it looks like it was inspired by German gothic architecture. This style was less 'heavy' in decorative sculpture but often used very elaborate ornamental patterns. Here's an example from that period: St. Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna.
  3. My first dollhouse is built!

    Thank you, I use water or alcool soluble stains to darknen the basswood. To be more specific I use aniline (fenilamine) based powders that you can find in many stores that sell wood treatments, they come in diferent colors and can be mixed in solutions at diferent ratios to get the intensity and color you are looking for. There is a product in specific we like to use in furniture restoration work that we know around here as "vieux-chêne", it's wholy organic and very safe to use. Add in diferent color pigments and you can pretty much get any natural wood color you can think of. Hope that helps!
  4. fairfield-bed1-1.jpg

    Oh the curtains I comissioned from a seamstress, I don't have a miniature pleater so I just picked the fabric and design and gave the measurements to someone who had the tools to get the pleats right. I am thinking about buying a pleater eventually because I'm working on two other houses, they are metal frames you heat up with the fabric inside then spray them with a stiffening glue to keep the shape. For the valances you can use cardboard and fabric glue. The bedcovers I did myself and it was a lot of work without the right tools, I had to weave wire into the fabric to hold the pleats in place, took me several hours and a lot of patience. So I'd recomend a 1/4 inch pleater if you plan on doing several curtains and/or bedcovers, it makes the whole pleating process a lot easier.
  5. fairfield-bed1-1.jpg

    Oh I also had most of my house in dry fit for a long time, I wanted to make sure all the parts were fitting properly and I wouldn't have trouble wallpapering after. I ended up decorating the interior walls and floor of the 'tower' on the 1st floor before I glued both "halves" of the house, so I had it parted at the mid larger wallsection for a while before I glued those two "halves" together. And I finished wallpapering and flooring before I glued the roof in, those rooms can be a bit tight to work with after fully closed, so it's good to run tests and see what works best for you plans If you want to get a 'creepy' vibe on your furniture, you can also try adding weathering effects on finished furniture using dry pastel colors and other finishing effects. You can even use damaged/broken funiture for this purpose as it won't impact the look you're going for. I often find damaged furniture being sold in "bulks" of dollhouse components on sites like craiglist or ebay. About the windows, the ones with a pediment on the second floor are houseworks windows model HWH5042, the ones with the gothic arches are Alessio's lasercut frames, and the exterior frames were assembled by me using wood trims and some of the original kit frames. You can find pre-cut wood trims being sold in lenghts at dollhouse suppliers. In my case I usually shop at a local model railroad/shipbuilding supplier for these materials, they usually have a good selection of 1:24 and 1:48 scale components, or order them in bulk online. They are very versatile because you can cut them in any lenght for baseboards and crownmouldings, or assemble them into window and door frames, I even use larger scale ones to make cornices and corbels for the exterior decor.
  6. fairfield-bed1-1.jpg

    Hi, thanks so much for the kind words  I love this scale in miniatures and this is still my favorite house, I am always happy to see builds of this kit! To answear your questions about furniture, I collect and repair miniatures for some time now and usually I search on the used market for old pieces in both 1:24 and 1:12 scale. I have collected a high number of 1:24 miniatures going back to mid XX century to now, most of the furniture displayed in this house was made by a company called Bespaq, dating back to the early 2000s but some are a bit more recent as well. There are also some pieces by John Baker, Ken Haseltine, Danny Rodriguez, David Kruprik, Arjen Spinhoven, and some made by myself. If there is any piece in particular you like I can try to identify it for you more precisely. Most of the rugs are from a company called Pike & Pike and they are made in Turkey if I'm not mistaken. They are woven mini rugs and easily found in most miniature supply stores in many sizes and colors, I usually buy them at local miniature fairs or from sites like amazon. I do get what you are saying about being hard to find a good variety of furniture for smaller scales, but they are out there. It depends on the style you are looking for, these days modern style furniture is easier to find, specially with the marvel of 3D printing. But there are also some manufacturers who still make furniture in older fashions, baroque, neoclassic and XIX century revival styles are still fairly common. Sometimes it's just a matter of searching and waiting, I think chairs are usually the hardest thing to find due to how delicate they are, not many manufacturers are fond of making them in this scale. 
  7. Chantilly-wip2.jpg

    They are really wonderful to work with, lasercut plywood is super easy to assemble and requires very little sanding. The only downside is sometimes it can be hard to hide the "burnt" markings around the edges on stained parts. Other than that these are probably faster builds, I've spent so much time sanding on the Beacon Hill this feels like a breeze  
  8. Chantilly-wip3.jpg

    That area is like a small storage room, I have boarded up the interior walls to look nice and there is a trapdoor in that area to access the rooftop, I am thinking about hinging it so it can open and close. I've tried hiding the electrical strip there, on the right side under the roof but it was still visible.. covering it up wouldn't be a bad idea, I've been thinking about doing a fake wall there perhaps. I will start shingling soon, I will leave that area for last just in case.
  9. Chantilly-livingroom-wip.jpg

    Thank you, I wanted to cover up the tabs in the staircase and got a bit carried away hehe. I don't plan on darkening the room too much, the floor will be close to this color, the front door I might make darker just for contrast.
  10. Chantilly-wip4.jpg

    Yes I imagine it took a while for plumbing to reach the countryside. Some houses had underground waste deposits that had to be pumped every now and then, I imagine an outhouse would be a better option to avoid some unpleasant overflow of waste water. I see what you mean, the problem is the corridor would be extremely narrow, it's a struggle to try to divide this space with that front window. I'm not fond of the stairs ending inside a room so large, hence why I'm not sure what to do with this area. I've seen some people use this as a bedroom, but the lack of 'privacy' feels a bit odd. The shape of the ceiling doesn't help, I want to do a cottage style wood ceiling and I feel like the wall would cut the 'flow' of the back wall, if that makes any sense. 
  11. Chantilly-livingroom-wip.jpg

    Initialy was thinking about doing wood crown mouldings and frames, but when I tested them the cream color looked nicer with the wallpaper. Maybe I need to test some floor stains to have an idea how it will look with wood baseboards. I have 2 blue colors at the moment, I used both on the Fairfield: one on the front door and the other on the siding, the blue I used on that front door is close to the blue in this wallpaper. I can also make try any mix from regular acrylic paints I have around.
  12. Chantilly-livingroom-wip.jpg

    Yes, it's the 1870s Honeysuckle & Tulip design printed by Itsy Bitsy for 1:24 scale, white and blue on a brown background. I'm inclined to do a dark wood frontdoor, perhaps wenge, would look nice with either cream or walnut frames. I'll leave the doorway to the kitchen open.
  13. Chantilly-wip4.jpg

    Haha I had that thought as well, it would indeed be a good hiding spot. I'm trying to set this house between 1840-1880, flushing toilets were becoming popular but still into the early XX century some houses didn't have a bathroom. This house isn't very luxurious anyway, more like a cottage  
  14. Chantilly-wip4.jpg

    From the album ~ Chantilly ~

    I am pondering if I should modify the second floor to add a small bathroom (I've placed a board on the spot), thoughts? It would be a very tiny room, looking from here I'm afraid it will end up breaking the 'aesthetic' of the house, but on the other hand I'm not sure what to do with such a large room. Or should I simply do a period house with no bathroom? Add a bathing tub to the bedroom perhaps... I'm so used to seeing houses with one, but I can't say it's one of my favorite rooms..
  15. Chantilly-livingroom-wip.jpg

    From the album ~ Chantilly ~

    Added the stairs and testing the ceiling template. Still needs some work, the light is terrible quality but the center area is embossed with a metalic copper finish imitating a "tin" effect. I thought it would be a nice combo with the walnut stain on the stairs. I'm thinking about doing baseboards in the same stain color as the stairs, would the door and window frames look better in the same color or cream (as in the kitchen)? And I need sugestions for the color of the front door... light or dark wood? Or maybe a color, like blue? I want something that will contrast with both the exterior trims and the interior, it's a paladian style double door.