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About fov

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  • Gender Female
  • Location San Francisco

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  • Dollhouse Building Experience Please Select
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  • Real Name Emily
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  1. My blog is super helpful for reminding me how I did something! I'm always referring back to it.
  2. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    This is beautiful, but pretty steep for an unfinished dollhouse: In case the listing goes away:   "Just in time for Christmas! This "one of a kind" pristine "never used" Victorian dollhouse by Mastercraftman, J. Dolgoff (see brass plate in picture) of "Classic Designs" labelled "Union Street". Has exquisite detailing- Removable shingled mansard roof. Dimensions 42 1/2 inches X 32 1/2 inches x 16 inches. A perfect gift for a child on Christmas morning."     The last sentence cracked me up. Who pays $1500 for an (unfinished!) child's dollhouse?   I'd never heard of J. Dolgoff so I looked him up, and found this auction for dollhouse end tables, interesting!   In other news, here's a really nice Glencroft:  
  3. Personally I think this house looks fine without interior doors. If you add them to the openings they might interfere with the exterior doors. I suggest you play around with furniture before you do anything. Once you see how it looks with furniture you might decide you don't care as much about the interior doors.
  4. IMG-0178.JPG

    This is great! I love your paint bottles, did you make them?
  5. Repaing Railings on Vh600

    This does sound like a case where taking it apart to put it back together is the best option. Spindles can be tricky, especially if they're slightly too short. To add stability, you can add a cut-down pin to the bottom of the spindles that are too short and stick the pin into the lower rail. Here are some pictures to show what I mean (scroll halfway down the post to see them): Another option is to take it apart and then use a different railing that's all one piece, rather than trying to fix what you have. Check out Heritage Laserworks for some options:
  6. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    Partially built Pierce with Timberbrook windows, in Napa:  
  7. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    Here's a 1/2" scale Bill Lankford cottage with a low starting bid: It's probably from a class, and not finished by Bill himself. I have the same house but mine came unfinished inside. This one has the floors and interior walls done. There's also a nicely landscaped (but still unfinished inside) one on eBay for $395:    
  8. Currier and Ives village houses

    Welcome to the forum! I moved the post and removed the email and prices. If anyone is interested, they can send you a private message through the forum and you can talk about prices there. I'll also send @jennywren a message to make sure she knows about this thread.
  9. Fairfield Flooring and Wallpaper

    I always do wallpaper and flooring after assembly, except for when there's a spot that would be too hard to reach afterward. With the Fairfield, I suggest papering the entry room before assembly, including the staircase wall. (I like to paper staircase walls all the way up with the same paper, so you don't have a seam where the first floor transitions into the second floor.) The long second floor hallway is another room that could be tough to paper after assembly, but I used stiff scrapbook paper for that and I don't think it was too hard. (I cut the paper to the right height, slid it in and creased the corners, and then pulled it back out to apply glue.) One reason I paper after assembly is so the wallpaper can wrap around the corners. Since the kits don't always fit together perfectly you might end up with gaps at the corners that will be visible if you paper the walls beforehand (you can cover these up with trim, though). Also keep in mind that if you paper before assembly you'll have to be careful not to get glue on the paper as you glue the house together. When pieces don't fit snugly I like to run glue along the insides of the joints to help them hold, which you can't do if you've already wallpapered. As for papering first vs. flooring first, when the house is assembled it doesn't make much difference. I wouldn't add the coffee stirrer floors before assembly, though -- they might get in the way of putting everything together.
  10. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    It was a front-opening San Francisco style Victorian built by a local miniature shop owner, with a ton of components, for $100. The seller said it was going to be his wife's project but she passed away before she could get started. There wasn't actually a photo of the front (just with the front open, so you couldn't see the facade) but you could tell from the visible trim and components that it was something special.  
  11. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    I love that little house -- didn't know it was called the Sweet Pea, though. I have the half scale version which is named the Gull Bay. Apparently this house was also available in quarter scale but I've never seen it. In fact I've never seen another of the half scale version except for my own (I got it unfinished on eBay). They were made by Jackie Deiber in the '80s.
  12. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    I'm glad I got to see that Minneapolis listing before it was taken down. That was a great haul. I hope someone here got it (selfishly, so we can see more pictures!) With the right tool, enlarging the openings wouldn't be too hard.
  13. Ebay, Etsy & Craig's List Links

    Tough to tell from the photos, but I think they modified the original "box" bay window opening into a door opening for the French doors shown in one of the photos. The back hinged panel has a square opening to accommodate the fancy Houseworks bay window, as well as a door opening for a back door. As for the half panel, I think they just removed the bottom part of the wall that's usually closed in, to provide better access to the downstairs room. Unless they were intending to add an addition or something?  
  14. Help with ID

    It looks like one of the RGT modular houses, similar to the one I posted about here: I think this one is the Altamont, plus a side addition:  
  15. When do you give in? (or don't)

    First of all, your house looks great. Very nice work! Secondly, welcome to the "My electricity stopped working and I hate everything" club. I am a frequent member. Electrifying a dollhouse is finicky and expensive and something almost always goes wrong. If you're "lucky" something will go wrong more than once. Did you try jiggling the junction splice (the piece that connects the transformer to the tape wire?) When none of the lights turn on, that's often the culprit. Ultimately, if you can't or don't want to figure out how to fix it, there's nothing wrong with an un-electrified dollhouse. Just disconnect the transformer and think of the lights as non-working.