Bob Hood

Hi Sable........OH MY I don't know if my 74 year old eyes are up to this. I will try again tomorrow. How do you cut the wall paper without cutting the tape wire. Can you scrape some of the film off with your finger or what tool. I think you may be right about the cause of this problem.

Help................I am trying to install the extra small CK1003 outlets and i am having trouble having them come alive. I have the probe and have found the tape wire behind the wallpaper. Can anyone give me some pointers or direct me to some video. I want to give it another try tomorrow afternoon.

Good Morning Holly...........Not to offend the fur babies out there, but seems to be many ways to skin the you know what. I don't have as much experience as a lot of members, however, i enjoy experimenting and repurposing things. Thank God for spellcheck or i wouldn't be able to participate at all.

Hi Holly..........Thanks, I know you have a wealth of knowledge. I am so pleased to be able to take advantage of your experience. POST NO 100 What a great site.

Hi Tara.......with a little fileing and shaping i think that might work. Good Luck

Thanks Sable......That's some good advise. The double first row is exactly what you do when you put on real shingles. I really like the interaction on this site. I look forward to each new topic.

Hi Tara.........This might sound a little off the wall, but you might take a pair of larger picture hangers and nip the hanger part off leaving a pair of stand off rod hangers. Glue your hangers on and then you can put up your rods and curtains as well as take them down to redecorate. Just an idea.

Everyone probably already knows this trick, but i never did it before and it came out perfect Dollhouse Roofing 1. Lay your ruler* so that the mark for 1" lines up on the bottom edge of the roof. Hold your ruler so it lines up with the edge of the roof. Rotate the ruler as shown, until the top of the roof lines up with the next inch mark (in this case 8"). Now draw marks on the roof at each inch line on your ruler. Now move the ruler to the right edge of the roof again lining up the same numbers on the top and bottom (in the example, 1" and 8"). Draw marks on this side of roof. 2. Using a thin, straight strip of wood (a yard stick works very well) place the bottom edge of the stick on the first mark on each side. Use push pins or thumb tacks to hold it in place. 3. Place a bead of glue** (Aleene'sTM or Elmer'sTM) along the bottom edge of the roof, and just below the wood alignment strip. Starting on one end, place a shingle against the alignment strip and overlapping the edge of the roof by about 1/8". Continue placing shingles across the entire width of the roof. If the last shingle is too large, you may make it narrower by either cutting it or just break it between your fingers. 4. When the first row is done, move the alignment strip up to the next set of marks on your roof. Run a bead of glue along the top edge of row of shingles you just placed on the roof, and another bead just below the alignment strip. Snap a shingle in half lengthwise (with the grain) to obtain a narrow shingle. Start the second row with this half width shingle so the joints don’t line up with the previous row. 5. Continue up the roof in the same manner remembering to alternate full and half shingles for starting the row so that you avoid having the joints line up. The easiest way to finish off the roof is to use a ridge board. This is a board in the shape of a “V” or a right angle which can be glued to the top of the roof to give a finished look. * If the shingles you are using are shorter than 1” then you must make a special ‘ruler’ that has lines closer together. e.g. If you are using “Classic” pattern shingles with a 3/4” exposure, then make a ‘ruler’ that has lines every 3/4”. Use this in step 1 the same as a regular ruler. This will give even divisions for the smaller exposure. **If you prefer to use a solvent glue (QuickGripTM) apply it to the back of each shingle as you place the shingle on the roof. Do not put beads of glue on the roof as it dries too quickly. To simulate SLATE roofing, we use a material that is made of MDF and machined/embossed to look like shingles. Then we cover it completely with black wax shoe polish (Kiwi, Esquire,etc) and buff it with a brush until it shines. Then sprinkle baby power over the roof, and brush off the extra. Actually looks quite good. Thatching (still working on a good way) Use coconut fiber. The color and size is about right.

Hi Janet............I haven't built a large number of windows and bay windows, but i assure you that building the window outside and then installing is the way to go. I also hand build doors outside and then install.

Thank you Tracy.......You nailed it. I did a check and that's what she is. My wife and I are really excited to have found out what it is. Based on conversation at the yard sale It may be more than ten years old.

Started a new project with my wife Margo. Found at a yard sale. Does anyone know what the name of this house is and how old it might be. The outside was put together pretty well but the inside was a mess. We hope to make this a joint project.

Hi Dana.......Train Layouts and Dollhouses have a lot in common. I am looking at my train at this moment from my Dad in 1946. You and your Husband will be able to help each other. I am new here myself and really enjoy the member comments.

Happy to have you as a member from across the pond. I will enjoy finding out how different the dollhouse construction and wiring is over there. I am a new member and have found the group to very helpful and friendly. Please keep interacting and sharing your progress.

Hi Samantha From Down Under.........I have examples of both and IMHO I prefer the 3/8. Your 1/2 would compare to 6 in siding. For me I think it is a matter of house circa and personal preference. I don't have the experience of some of the other members. I always have my two cents to give.