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About Kells

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  • Dollhouse Building Experience Five or more
  • Dollhouse Preference I like them both
  • Online Community Building Projects No
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  • Real Name Kells
  • Country United States/Canada

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  1. hello from philadelphia

    You're in luck there. This is a Greenleaf forum and that is a Greenleaf house. I know several members have built that kit and would probably be happy to share their tips and tricks. When you start that one, you may want to start a thread in the forum for Greenleaf houses at this link. Be sure to put the name of the house in your subject line. Also do a search for Westville. You'll get a lot of results. Some may answer your questions. Others may give you and your wife inspiration on finishing it. Speaking of inspiration, here is NellBell's album for her Westville.  
  2. hello from philadelphia

    Yeah, I think someone modified that house at some point. Mine doesn't have windows on one side either. The original kit comes open to the rear. Someone made a full rear enclosure and hinged the front, which is exactly what I'm doing with mine. They opted to put a bay on the rear side. That appears homemade to me (the rear side, not the bay window). I doubt the house originally came fully enclosed. It's a house with a lot of potential, IMO. It could be a real charmer. And before I forget since I immediately pounced onto the house... WELCOME!! You will find a lot of help on this forum when it comes to decorating the interior, finishing the exterior, etc., etc..
  3. hello from philadelphia

    Easy fix. Get some stripwood to use as a foundation board to bring it up to the right height. Mine doesn't even have a foundation. The addition I'm putting on mine comes with a 1 1/4" high foundation. It's really thin though so I'm probably not going to use it. I get 1 1/12" high by 3/4" thick wood from Manchester Woodworks. I don't think they keep it in stock but if you ask them to make you some, they will. They did it for me. I've not used foundations provided, and removed foundations already attached more times than I can remember. I replaced all of them with the wood I mentioned. It works like a charm and makes everything sturdy and at the same height. I'd recommend keeping the additions unattached (if they already are unattached) for ease of moving. You can easily cut the foundation boards with a hand saw if you don't have a jigsaw. Mitering the corners may be more "professional" but I've found that task unnecessary. I just butt them up against each other, glue, then nail or screw.
  4. hello from philadelphia

    Lol, I hear that. Get the magnets like the kind used to hold kitchen cabinet doors closed. They are perfect for this purpose. That slanted piece at the front eave line is exactly like mine. The wood on mine is very thick too. Mine has milled-in siding but yours appears to have applied clapboard siding strips? They're about 3" high and I can just make out the seams on the side. Maybe Batrie made a smooth-sided kit at one time. Mine is a full gambrel roof but yours is done exactly like I've been thinking of re-doing mine. Basically the front half of the roof to make it taller, with a flat enclosed rear side. I posted about that here: Are your window and door openings standard-sized? The windows should be 2 9/16" wide by 5 1/16" high to accommodate standard components. Mine sure weren't! They fell short by about 1/8" in width and height. I'll warn you, the only way i found to widen them was with a strong metal rasp. A sanding block and dremel grinder didn't make a dent in them. Rasping is a LOT of work but a heck of a lot easier than building windows and doors from scratch.  
  5. hello from philadelphia

    KathieB recently explained that a member can create a gallery once they've made five posts.
  6. New door frame

    I love that cross-brace on the screen door, it's so unique.
  7. hello from philadelphia

    Oh, and I've been tussling with how to hinge the roof on my gambrel, so you have no idea how delighted I am to see this post!
  8. hello from philadelphia

    I'd have to see more pictures but it looks much like the Dutch Gambrel I am currently renovating (link below). With much help from another Kelly (rodentraiser), we've come to the conclusion it was probably manufactured by Batrie. Mine was also a freebie but in far worse shape and less complete than yours, dangit! I am also interested in seeing more pictures because that facade and front porch are removable, yes? I posted about having trouble with that on a different house less than an hour ago, lol. This post: I'd love to see in more detail how yours is built.
  9. Beacon Hill

    See, I knew someone would know better than I how this all works. Thanks Kathie!
  10. Finally, the main color.

    It is all coming together beautifully!
  11. I've thought about it. Here's a revised plan with changes in red. This plan would sit flat against a wall and would certainly work a heck of a lot better for me! I'd have to jigger around the bathroom for access. Probably put it in the front hall, which would require fiddling with the stairs and a few doors, but that is all easily done since everything is still in boxes. Scroll to the bottom to see my hang up for this plan. The red line on the photo indicates the dividing line between first and second floor. Not that the floor extends out over the porch, in case it looks that way. It doesn't, I just had to put the red line there. The ceiling/floor is well below the eave line, creating a knee wall in the attic rooms. This makes them a usable height. Maybe I'm over-thinking but that knee wall is what's throwing me for a loop in making the front porch and wall removable as one piece. I guess I can try playing around with it when I do a mock-up. I'm just having trouble seeing it for some reason.
  12. Back to the dollhouse. Here's the preliminary floor plan. I made one noticeable change, in that to the left of the front door there are two windows instead of one. To center just one, it would have to be right where the interior wall is. There is no interior wall there on the real house (obviously), but I can't do an exact copy of the floor plan without making the house over 60" deep. Not gonna happen. IRL the house runs front to back and is very long. It's a bit over 4,000 sq. ft. if I remember correctly. All living spaces including the bedrooms and bathrooms are on the ground floor. They're actually office space and have been for years. My mom had her office here when we lived in Santa Fe, so that's really why I know the house. It's where I had my first job! I just didn't want to get off on that tangent in my too-long blathering original post. If I could figure out a way to hinge the front portion with that wrap-around porch, I'd enclose the rear, hinge the entire right side wall and roof, and hinge the front roof as well. I'm starting to really hate rear-opening houses. Several of mine require so danged much space to be viewable all the way around. The base on this one has to be a minimum of 42" wide. I don't know if a turntable would be feasible. Any suggestions?
  13. Books?

    Love it. Love it, love it, love it. Great idea and beautifully executed.
  14. I'm glad someone found it interesting! I tend to get into historical tidbits that it seems few care about. There is a lot of overlap between the two cities. Without going into *another* essay (learn to edit, Kells!) . . . both are old cities; Spain controlled New Orleans for almost as long as France did, while Santa Fe was the royal capital city of Spain's northern territories; and both were (and still are, I think?) predominantly Catholic. There was a great deal of interaction between the two cities, their respective cathedrals being but one example.
  15. Foundation, long frames, and walls glued up.

    Ditto that. I like it very much.