Miniatures in Marble

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About Miniatures in Marble

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  • Dollhouse Building Experience Two
  • Dollhouse Preference I like them both
  • Online Community Building Projects Yes
  • Digital Camera Yes
  • Real Name joel
  1. Bookcases II

    This is the top section from the drawing above. 1/8" by 1/4" mahogany faced with the veneer strip and surrounded by two strips of 1/32" by 5/32" mahogany
  2. Beautiful Crissy

    Last year in July my wife and I were watching old commercials on youtube (I know we are boring) and the Beautiful Crissy commercial from 1969 came up. She said she had wanted one for Christmas but didn't get it. So I found one on eBay, wrapped it in Christmas wrap, and put it on her bed all set up as a surprise. Said Santa had a 49 year detour and delivered it as a Christmas in July gift. Of course now she has a whole wardrobe and more clothes than I do, and I work for a clothing company. So did any of you have one of these back in the day, or today?
  3. Bookcases II

  4. Bookcases II

    See how it is flipped minus the 1/4" strip
  5. Bookcases II

    The top is the same for the molding except without the 1/4" strip and once completed will be installed upside down
  6. Bookcases II

    The other thing I am doing is for the 1/4" band I am going with a packaged veneer inlay strip. These are made for inlaying as borders in larger pieces but I think will add a decorative touch to the base. I am only doing the one strip so it accents but doesn't overpower it
  7. Bookcases II

    It is a bit hard to see but this is a test strip of applying curved veneer across a 1/8" radius
  8. Bookcases II

    Ok this is the plan for the base molding. The first picture gives the overall profile and the second shows how I plan to make it up in parts. Essentially each base will be made of of three sections assembled into 6" strips, laminated together, then cut using a miter saw to make the base as you would with regular molding. The curved section will be made by soaking a strip of veneer in water and clamping to a 1/4" rod to make the shape then glued in and sanded to fit
  9. Bookcases II

    This is the crotch veneer I purchased just waiting on it to arrive. I will be using the crotch portion on the sides and top and the striped portion on the molding. At least that is the current plan sometimes reality intrudes
  10. Bookcases II

    Agreed it is a small change but changes the tenor of the piece. These two are more tests the next ones (hopefully) will be keepers. I am thinking with a matching box sofa it would do the back wall of my small Greek Revival office building something like this. 
  11. Bookcases II

    As an aside this is what I  am thinking for the next pair I make (although I have a sofa and pair of chairs planned first) converting the front to pilasters so the side isn't just a slab and the whole thing looks too thick. I think the drawing shows it but the center of the side would have some depth
  12. Bookcases II

    Molding for Section 3 - Base There are at least three methods for making molding. One is to buy ready made but unfortunately no one makes what I want. The second is to use an appropriately shaped shaper bit and use it to shape the edge of a piece of wood. A third method, which I will use here, is to assemble it from stript of wood sandwich style. This method also allows me to easily veneer parts of the molding.  The picture shows the profile and dimensions of the assembly
  13. Bookcases II

    I was thinking of adding a second layer to the sides as I feel the uprights aren't thick enough for the American Empire styling. Thoughts (the new one is on the right)
  14. Bookcases II

    The doublers are all glued. I did a quick mock up assembly to see how it looked. Not perfect but acceptable I guess. Then I sanded the shelf faces and inside faces of the doublers, places that would be near impossible to sand when it is assembled, and glued up and clamped the first one. Meanwhile I am starting the same process on the second one
  15. Bookcases II

    I bought a pile of those there is a HF near me. When I am making miniature longbows (1:3 scale) I laminate three layers of wood (This one is Satinwood, Ebony, and Lemonwood with Ebony Tips) and found they didn't provide enough force to make a tight glue joint. The bow would come apart when drawing and tillering it. So I switched to C clamps. Now the bow's have a lot more stress on them than miniature furniture