rbytsdy

Trying to find an instructive photo:

This must refer to one of the walls that demarcate the living room: one is at an angle:

Welcome, Judy; I installed my BH window trim and mansard roof trim over the siding and shingles respectively: That does make for some awkward spots due to this trim sticking out further than it's really supposed to, like Holly said, and one ends up doing alot of filling (glue and spackle, I would use). The upside is that one doesn't end up having to cut fancy shapes to deal with the window features or roof curves. Six of one, half dozen of the other. And I did side and paint the porch wall area before I installed the porch posts etc.

Awesome! (Love that flooring.)

Isn't it pretty! This is the "Marissa" gable trim, from Heritage Laserworks: Tried something a bit different: used "chalky finish" spray paint: It doesn't look like a chalk finish to me, at least at this scale, but it isn't nearly as glossy as other white spray paints, which is what I wanted. Think I'll try it on the porch railing too.

Here's what a Newberg looks like with siding-- it appears that it's usually adorned with those cardboard scallops and wood cutouts; got (almost all of) the siding on: And here's the first coat of paint: Valspar interior satin, "Moraine": That is nothing to shout about, is it! Hubby stopped by and asked me if I were trying to make the world's most boring dollhouse. I think it looks pretty close to the main color on the Robin Carey "Darling House", though, so that's the color I wanted. The backdrop color has to be tame so that the trim and bits of color can pop.

I've always used Elmer's white glue, smeared evenly on the paper with a sponge, then I rub the paper onto the wall (and bubbles out) with a clean dry t-shirt scrap. Have to not put too much glue, and have to move pretty decisively, but it's worked pretty well for me over the years.

Got the battery box installed in a matboard creation: Getting the lights installed in the attic; using shiny pony beads: Got the staircase put together; the kit doesn't have risers or a backing, so I made my own from basswood and matboard: This house eats up the siding: I have installed the porch roof (after re-cutting the angle to accommodate a horizontal installation, shaving about half an inch from the front, and installing trim on the house so that the roof had something to tack onto). Got my order from Heritage Laserworks! From left to right: "CiCi" (for the porch roof underside, just above the porch steps); "Barbados" (for the rest of the porch roof underside); "Duval" (railing for the yard); "Marissa" large (for the three large gables, left and right and front); "Marissa" small (for the small gable, front); "Cumbria" (for the underside of the "CiCi" part). I got the porch underside trims in matboard because I figured that matboard would be more forgiving to more cutting, since I will have to cut these in smaller pieces.

Yes, that's the same gap, viewed from the other side and without the outer closet wall installed. Holly's suggestions are good ones.

This gap, right? Where the bottom stair is peeking out? I would extend the wall over and cover it-- foam board or matboard should do the trick, then wallpaper over it. Makes for a bigger closet.

I put 60-grit sandpaper on it.

Got my matte "tile" sheets in from Miniatures Marketplace at a good price; found tiffany lamp shades there too. That sheet in the kitchen has lilac accents. Mounting the second floor ceiling lights from the underside of the ceilings, so prepared all the papers and cutouts, used my Dremel to groove the underside, installed the 2nd floor (messed up my purple wallpaper there-- will have to trim or patch ), turned the house on its side, laid the wires in the grooves, and installed the papers etc over the wires. Glued on the front roof (even though the instructions said to glue on the back roof first) because I want to start laying out the attic lights.

Welcome, Holly. You might consider replacing all of the window pieces with a matboard build, as Kris shows here in her tutorial. In my current build the Newberg, I just flat out abandoned all of the kit pieces and am making my own windows.

Got all the windows sealed, and started to put up walls: I may have misread how to install the grooved side trim on the Left Diagonal Wall (just rechecked-- no, I don't believe I did misread)-- should've dry-fit it, because the Left Front Wall does not fit in place the way it ought. There is a huge gap between the 2nd floor and the Left Diagonal Wall now. I added some matboard to the 2nd floor to fill out that gap; I think that it will not affect placement of anything higher in the structure though, so it's OK. These grooved vertical trims are tough to keep square, and then on top of it all one has to make allowances for them in ceilings and floors. Prepping the underside of the 2nd floor with some ceiling-works; trying something fancy with a doily, a wooden medallion from HL and a decorative button, in small tribute to Robin Carey's wonderful ceilings! Figured out that I really needed another Flora Lites battery pack, so found one (20" leads) on eBay. Worth it. The battery packs that I had found recently on Amazon have the on-switch on one side of the pack and the batteries are inserted on the other side. Unless one is going to dangle the pack from the middle of the ceiling, this really doesn't work. Got my 1st floor paper templates laid out, and framed that window box while I can still get to it.

Got my papers glued on: As per usual, spending extra time on the windows. Decided to go with modification of Kris' matboard windows-- I'll leave out the sashes because they add weakness to the window structures (but mostly because they are difficult enough for me to get straight, speaking from experience, let alone those evil curves ). Fit each casing to each window opening, using Kris' scored matboard trick to do the curves: A lot of gessoed and framed casings: And installed: I'll glue the transparencies to the other side, and add some mullions here and there. Can't add the outer frames until the siding is done, though. Used Kris' door tutorial for the front door-- love how clean and crisp the lines are-- so much better than those die-cut doors turn out.

Silly me-- the Robin Carey "Darling House" wasn't a Newberg bash-- it's a Chantilly! Once I realized that (actually it was when I was looking at Mini maniac's shabby Chantilly build), it freed something in my head about whether to flatten the front or not: don't make the Newberg into something it isn't! But that porch roof is going down, for sure. Most of the point of this is to get to use those lovely Heritage Laserworks pieces, after all. Did a run on HL, got some papers and bits: Got the main pieces sanded, and the floors glued together (each floor has two pieces, which are held together by a backing piece). Got the post assemblies glued together; those are to join two walls at various angles. Here I am putting together the base. I don't think whoever made this design was up on their angles; that one post piece to the left is not angled correctly for what the finished product is supposed to look like. I should've figured out my own post angles instead of following the instructions...! Also, you can see where I had to rip apart my floor gluing b/c I glued the piece to the right on exactly backwards. Well this is why I am inserting the floor while the base glue dries, to make sure everything fits...! Here I am dry-fitting because I want to figure out paper placement and porch trim lengths.

(It is nice to get an hr or two on a Friday afternoon! ) New house arrived-- a new build for a cousin; I've not built the Newberg before, but it has alot of familiar elements, both the tab-and-slot, and the frames like the San Fran 555 has. Ed is being vaguely helpful. The kit has this funny stiff paper cut in scallop shapes which is meant to be applied to the gable fronts. I'm not going to use that; I will side the whole thing and am looking at the Robin Carey "Darling House" for inspiration-- it looks like it used to be a Newberg, doesn't it. I will kick up that porch roof and make it horizontal, and I'm thinking about whether I'll flatten out the front of the house or not. I'll use lavender accents instead of teal, on special request. I have spent a bit of time poring over the Darling House, and have come up with the following pieces to order from Heritage Laserworks that look the same or very near to what Robin Carey used: Duval (one-pc railing) (fence railing) Barbados (grill) (half-circle grill on underside of porch roof) Cumbria (bracket) CiCi (grill) (grill right above porch steps) Marissa (gable) (in two sizes) How much I order of these pieces depends on whether I figure out that I will flatten that house front or not... Will need to do some dry-fitting and ponder on that.

...done! I may have one paint touch-up and up to two trim touchups... And that end-table in the parlor is getting gessoed and finished, but I figured I better take some pics while the light is decent, because this pink house will get boxed up and put on the road here soon.

What a cutie!!

Hmmm... Between a year and several years. The same for all my other houses. Yes, the houses have taken a beating over the years, but it was important to me to make them according to my vision, and if my vision included art deco wall treatments, real light fixtures, tiny handles on the windows, or somewhat fragile staircases, so be it...

Well, here's the latest-- Doing final trim and paint touchups-- should be ready to box up soon, and on to the next house!

For $20, I don't think I would have left it either. Would love to see some inside pics. Is it 1/12, or a bit less?

I think I've gotten these rooms finished: Still working the attic, with some matboard creations to hide wire runs: Some work on the exterior: And a little kitchen unit from Kris' recent tutorial; I think that next time I make this, I will use all matboard (no cracks ) instead of basswood. (Also I thought that those two fairy chairs needed a little something, so I gave em some seat cushions.)