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Showing results for tags 'arthur'.
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
I found these white glitter-covered branches in the Christmas decoration section at our supermarket. The Arthur's sides are too bare for my liking, so I'm gluing the branches onto the house. I'll probably make some kind of box container along the bottom to hold them in place. I'm using clear Tacky glue, dotting here and there, then resting a paint bottle on top for a whole day so that it dries in place before moving on to another branch.© Lene Pieters 2014
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
This is another shot of the jhumkas themselves. There are little pearls around the sides, green enamel sections on top and red glass beads hanging from the centre. They're so pretty, I wanted to use both for living room lights.© Lene Pieters 2014
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Roof's top trim has been installed! I glued all the golden metal pieces to the top (front and back). Porch rail sections are also waiting to dry before I can put up the porch roof. Santa showed up to check on the progress, apparently he has a deadline coming up and wants to move in soon.© Lene Pieters 2014
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Side view. I didn't like the large white space on the porch support, so I painted a triangle design to fill it up.© Lene Pieters 2014
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I want to glue my Arthur onto a base, as it just feels very flimsy to carry it around and rest it on the thin wood. So, I found a piece of plywood 24x24 inch at Ace this morning, about one third of an inch thick. That gives me about 3 inches on each side and back, plus a generous space for a front yard and some landscaping. How have you prepared a base in the past? Did you seal it, then paint it or paint first, then seal it? How about the underside of the base? Same preparations? The edges are looking raw, so I'll need to spackle those too. Or do you use a base that is exactly the same size as the house itself? I do want to minimise the space used, also minimise the storage space required. For shipping purposes - would it be better to have a base that is large enough to cover the space of the roof overhang too? That way, if the edges bump against a crate, the roof isn't the first thing that takes all the strain. I don't want to glue any plants onto the base, so might just landscape with a few rocks/front path and paint the different areas. I have quite a few of those Lemax Christmas trees to arrange around the house. Any advice is most welcome!
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
This is what the back/inside looks like. I still have to finish off the edges and install the lights before I can decorate.© Lene Pieters 2014
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
The porch section is glued together, but not glued to the house. I still have a few corners that require some spackle. My two guardian nutcrackers are plain white - not sure if I want to paint them at this stage.© Lene Pieters 2014
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Finally decided on what pattern to paint the porch railings. After a nerve-wracking hour, this is the result. Carpal tunnel (even years post-surgery) makes painting small details very difficult. And I absolutely had to concentrate on getting the mirror-image stripes right, lol.© Lene Pieters 2014
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
I am so proud of the good alignment I achieved with the two triangular porch roof sections!© Lene Pieters 2014
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Hello, I've been reading all the construction blogs on the Arthur. Many show the roof magically appearing or show it easily going together. Mine is not going together at all now, and has been a challenge from the first dry fit. I finally (thought I) had things working, and to be forward thinking I had dry fit the back roof to the house every time I glued other parts of the house together, thinking this would ensure that it fit later. (I may or may not have put this part on upside down by accident during the early stages, so maybe that messed things up??) Well it doesn't fit now. On my current dry fit of the roof (the main part of the house is assembled and glued) I can place the front roof together with one of the two sides lying flat on the gable and the other a little raised (not sure what's preventing the other from lying flat , but that's a smaller issue), and they meet nicely in the middle. Anyway, If I then add on the back roof I can only get 1 or 2 of the tabs to line up at any one time with their respective slots (3 if you count the tab that the center wall goes in) and the others are always about 1/4 inch from where they need to be, and if I manage to get one tab in slot on each side the front roof pops apart (so I'm guessing I shouldn't glue that seam at this stage during my particular build??. Ideas?? Also, (sorry this is getting long) I'm planning to add electric, and wondered if I don't put lights on the ceiling in the upper floor,is it too early to do now and then wallpaper with the roof off, or am I likely to damage things if I tried given that the house may shift while I fiddle with the roof and porch etc. Thanks for any advice! Kim
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From the album: Spooky farmhouse- Montana style
Cut the windows and door square, cut windows in the primrose, cut the doorway between, filled the top window, glued the adjoining walls together. Now to start the porch and foundation! Get excited! -
When I was deciding on whether to use the Primrose as an extension to the Arthur, I looked around, but could not find any pics. So here are pics for the next person who thinks about this. Front: Back: Roof slopes comparison: The foundations are removed from both, the Arthur foundation is higher than the Primrose foundation. With the foundation removed, the top floors are at the same height, very nice. The roof slopes are different, and the Primrose is about 2cm deeper. I'm going to make it look like the unreleased kit, Montana: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8010
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
After thinking about it for a few days, I came up with this mirror image design for the shutters. Luckily, the same design fit in the panels on the front door too! Door isn't finished yet - still needs glass and final gluing.© Lene Pieters
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From the album: Spooky farmhouse- Montana style
It's like the Montana but flipped. -
From the album: Spooky farmhouse- Montana style
Added two walls to make hallways. -
From the album: Inspiration
The house may not resemble the Arthur, but the porch does!© Carol Horner
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Arthur-esque porch style with Victorian trimwork
cah54719 posted a gallery image in Members' Gallery
From the album: Inspiration
Beautiful porch trim (I bet it had turned balusters in an earlier time)!© Carol Horner
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Starting to take shape! I'm glad I did the window sills in red, it helps the colour balance of the front facade.© Lene Pieters
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I'm ready to tackle all the little bits of door and window trim. Gina's blog has been super helpful so far, but isn't very explicit for newbies like me to figure out the whole itty-bitty setup. Interior kitchen/living room door: Is there any trim for this door? How do you finish it without trim? Just glue some skinny sticks on the exposed wood core? Or can I use kebab sticks? I have kebab sticks that are the exact thickness. Windows: Do I glue the acetate to the inside of the wall and then glue the inside trim over it? Or do I glue the acetate to the outside of the wall and glue the trim over it? And where do the window sills fit in relation to the acetate? Front Door: Is the nice-facing plywood side of the door backing supposed to show to the outside or to the inside? Mine has a rough texture on the back side, so I want to hide it. Since so much of it will be hidden by the door decorative trim, can I change it around or will it mess with the placement? Where and how do I glue the door into position? But I would love to show off the stairs and some of the interior, so would have to hinge it, but don't have the courage for pin hinging or brass hinges. I do, however, have some thin chamois leather to try and make hinge strips (as someone suggested in a previous post). Would I glue them in between the door back and door trim first? And then glue them into the wall trim (in between wall and trim)? Sorry for so many questions - but so many of you have helped with the build so far, I'd hate to ruin everyone's efforts with an uninformed rush job!
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Merrymint Figgy Pudding paper by American Crafts - perfect for the roof! -
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Velvet paper to be glued down in living room© Lene Pieters
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I started assembling the shell and saw that the one wall's underside was full of little grooves, giving it a very rough texture. So I, a Spackle virgin, opened the little tub I had bought from Ace (their own brand and Lightweight). Wowza! The stuff looks nearly good enough to eat! It was so light and fluffy, it was actually a pleasure to spackle the entire section. After about 40 minutes, it was completely dry, I gave it a quick sand and could do the shell dry fit. Most of the tabs had to be trimmed a little bit on either end to get them to fit properly in the slots, but there were no other issues. As I was wrapping the lot in painter's tape, I notice the front right corner join of the right outer wall and the middle floor section just wouldn't quite meet tightly, in spite of the tape. So I had to improvise, lay the entire house on top of that right outer wall and I put a 16 ounce bottle of acrylic paint on top of the (now vertical) middle floor to put pressure on the entire section. And then I glued that sucker really good and left it overnight. This morning - perfect fit! Yay, now I can continue the shell's gluing with better fitting pieces. Even my husband is impressed with my new-found carpentry skills. And me.....well, I'm looking for any excuse to use Spackle again! :wicked:
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From the album: My Arthur: Santa's House
Upstairs - both rooms done the same colour scheme. Not sure if it will be workshop or bedroom & bathroom. Waiting for my furniture to arrive before I commit to anything!© Lene Pieters
