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Glue for assembling dollhouse


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NOT HOT GLUE!!!!! It becomes brittle with age and will fall apart, plus you can't get a good seamless corner as it's so thick it'll leave gaps. I've been using Tacky Glue for my Gloucester as it doesn't take as long to dry as Elmer's white glue and since it's tacky there isn't as much water to cause warping. Personal preference and definitly not to be taken as the only way to go. There will be many opinions on this topic. Good luck, can't wait to see your progress.

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Definitely not hot glue! The instructions may say that, but they're referring to an old formulation of hot glue that was better than the new stuff. The new stuff gets brittle with age, particularly if your house will sit in the sun. It gets brittle and breaks, shattering into slivers like glass..and falls apart. Not a good thing! :hug:

Of the other two you list, Aleen's would be the best. Or Elmer's white carpenter glue.

Have fun with your build!

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Tacky glue or carpenters glue -- but I personally prefer Tacky and often it's on sale at Michaels or other craft stores -- buy lots -- it will be used for many things :hug:

:p

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I'm a fan of Titebond wood glue as well. I actually find the carpenter's glue (at any hardware stores) to be cheaper than Tacky glue.

My favorite is the Gorilla Glue wood glue, but they are kind of expensive.

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I LOVE Aleene's Tacky Glue but have also started using the Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue which I think I love even more, and my craft store puts it on sale for 90 cents a bottle every other week it seems.

I started using wood glue but it was a little messy for me since it was runnier.

Good luck :hug:

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HOT GLUE BAD! WHITE GLUE GOOD!

Seriously..hot glue will be a disaster you do not want to have. It doesn't hold up. Your best bet is a white, water based glue that will be an easy clean up.

Like many of us, I love Aileen's Tacky Glue. I especially love Aileen's FastGrab Tacky glue..and for anything plastic I use E6000.

But if you use the E6000 make sure you have a window open, or some way to vent well to the outside..and never use it in close proximity with animals, especially birds or cats. Birds breathe a bit different..and cats have issues with anything containing phenols.

For that matter, so do People..make sure your workroom is well ventilated so no one has to pull you down from floating on the ceiling..that stuff will make you crazy, not to mention sick as a dog.

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  • 2 years later...

Hi, all! New here (and new to dollhouses) and awaiting the arrival of my Gloucester kit. I know this thread is a little old, but wanted to say thanks and let you know it was useful. I would not have known to avoid the glue gun! (But it's actually a relief because I hate the GG.)

I wonder if there is a good "tip sheet" anywhere with stuff like this for the true newbie. I'm looking for tips in the vein of "Use wood glue" and "prime everything before you start." I.e. -- dollhouses for dummies! :)

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Hi, all! New here (and new to dollhouses) and awaiting the arrival of my Gloucester kit. I know this thread is a little old, but wanted to say thanks and let you know it was useful. I would not have known to avoid the glue gun! (But it's actually a relief because I hate the GG.)

I wonder if there is a good "tip sheet" anywhere with stuff like this for the true newbie. I'm looking for tips in the vein of "Use wood glue" and "prime everything before you start." I.e. -- dollhouses for dummies! :)

Hi Amiee, welcome to the wonderful, inspiring, addicting world of minis. I'm no pro but for me I always start by:

  • Verifying I have all the pieces and mark each piece with a pencil so I know which one is #4 and which one is #22.
  • Dry fit the kit so you know it all goes together properly.
  • Prime each piece
  • Wallpaper or paint inside walls before gluing the shell of the kit. (If the room or space is small I will also do the flooring.)

Also when in doubt post questions or search the forum. There is a wealth of information here even down to building a specific kit.

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Aimee, if you tickle the "Search" button using "getting started" you will probably choke on how mini times we have posted on this topic; and will be willing to post however mini times newcomers want. By the time I started to build the Glencroft I discovered that the kits will talk to us and tell us what they want, and that's probably more information than you wanted to know!

Generally I start by separating out the clear acetate window sheet and putting it between the pages of the Warm-Up sheet (you can read over the Warm-Up sheet before doing this, if you wish; the most important thing it says is "Don't panic") to protect it from getting scratched, and set it on the table, under the box lid. I have a pen and a roll of masking tape handy in case pieces fall out of their sheets before I'm ready.

I take out the instructions and the schematics sheets.

I read over the instructions.

I look over the schematics sheet, then read the instructions again, checking where on the schematics sheet the pieces are called for in the instructions.

With the schematics sheet in hand I start with plywood sheet #1 and check it against the schematics sheet to identify aall the pieces. At first I wrote the part name on a piece of masking tape and stuck it to the part, but that became tedious over time, even for me (I enjoy shingling and siding and bricking...); I save the masking tape for putting back the parts that fall out of their plywood sheets before I'm ready to punch them out. I continue with the rest of the plywood sheets, laying them face down in numerical order into the box lid. Then I carefully pick up the stack of wood and lay it face up back in the box bottom, lay the schematics and instructions on top, pick up the box lid and put the acetate sheet in its Warm-Up sheet on top, put the lid back on the box and go off to sip a stiff drink and mull over supplies. (I generally do this first session whilst doing the laundry)

When I'm ready to start I have mypencil/ pen, box-cutter utility knife and my roll of masking (or painter's) tape handy. I open the box, removing the Warm-Up Sheet and its contents as before. Reading over the instructions I remove and prep the pieces as called for in the instructions and begin to assemble the kit, WITHOUT GLUE! I use strips of the tape to hold parts together. At this point I sand, shave tabs and slots for a more perfect fit (especially with the die-cut kits; the newer laser-cut kits genearlly don't need as much fiddoing). Once I have the house taped together it it in what we call "dry fit". This is where most kits will start talking to us. This is when you can see which parts you will not be able to get to (like stairwells) to decorate after it's glued together, as well as deciding what you will want to stain, rather than prime and paint or paper (you cannot stain over paint, but you can paint over stain), and what you will want to bash (add privacy walls, make a window into a door, add an extension or porch or balcony, finish off a utility closet...).

BTW, if you make the mistake of thinking it has to be "perfect" you will find that is crippling and you'll never get it to suit you. Listen to the kit and work for realism, and both of you will be delighted with the outcome.

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Glad to know that the glue tips helped you out. A lot of new builders think that hot glue will help their assembly time go faster but it really doesn't. Assembling with tacky and wood glue is just as fast, without the problems hot glue can cause.

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I would like to add Frustration...... it will hapen that one piece that just won't fit no matter how much you fiddle with it, or that one direction that no matter how many times you read it just not make sense. This happens to all of us. This is when you walk away or work on something else. It is amazing how just taking a step back and mindlessly sanding window sills will make your brain suddenly kick start itself into how to fix whatever the problem was. Be forwarned this may happen in the middle of the grocery store or 30 seconds before you are about to go to sleep! I also keep a spiral tablet handy and jot down ideas as I think of them as to how I will decorate, or any directions on how to make some item you want to add. If you find something online make a note of that as well. Make sure you write down the URL or a good description of where you found it. Formejust saving it in favorites usually does not work as my favorites folder has 665432566777 dollhouse ideas and tuts in it.

My new favorite way to keep track of stuff is pinterest as I can pin right to a board the things I find. I also still keep notes in my tablet.

My spiral tablet is one of those ones with 5 tabs I label them Building, kitchen, exterior etc. It depends on the particular house I am working on what I label the tabs.

The other thing I do is start a tub (I use those ones that are suppose to go under your bed) and into that tub goes anything that I will be using on the house. Paint swatches furniture, bits and pieces of items that I might use to make something like a lamp etc. This keeps you from searching for those tiny doorknobs you bought for the house and now cannot find.

Most of all have fun and listen to your house it knows what it wants to be!

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...The other thing I do is start a tub (I use those ones that are suppose to go under your bed) and into that tub goes anything that I will be using on the house. Paint swatches furniture, bits and pieces of items that I might use to make something like a lamp etc. This keeps you from searching for those tiny doorknobs you bought for the house and now cannot find.

Most of all have fun and listen to your house it knows what it wants to be!

Rhonda, that is such a brilliant idea!

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I thought you about had to use Wood Glue as isn't it stronger than white glue or tacky glue? I know you are spose to use white glue on your plastic window inserts, but is White glue as strong as wood glue? White glue dries faster but I thought you were spose to use Wood glue. any input on which is stronger is appreciated! Thanks ! Cheryl

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I thought you about had to use Wood Glue as isn't it stronger than white glue or tacky glue? I know you are spose to use white glue on your plastic window inserts, but is White glue as strong as wood glue? White glue dries faster but I thought you were spose to use Wood glue. any input on which is stronger is appreciated! Thanks ! Cheryl

White glue is a type of wood glue. Just don't use "school glue". I buy Elmer's white glue in gallon jugs at the hardware store and refill all my small bottles. I use it for the house, wallpaper, siding, shingles (although I like to let it get tacky first for shingles)... Just about everything mini including furniture (again tacky consistency and tiny bits). For wood to metal or hard to glue items there is E6000.

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White glue is a type of wood glue. Just don't use "school glue". I buy Elmer's white glue in gallon jugs at the hardware store and refill all my small bottles. I use it for the house, wallpaper, siding, shingles (although I like to let it get tacky first for shingles)... Just about everything mini including furniture (again tacky consistency and tiny bits). For wood to metal or hard to glue items there is E6000.

Wow thanks! Good To know!

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You can thin Elmer's white glue with water; wood glue contains resin, I do know when I make a mistake I can pop apart a join I've made with white glue without damage; if I try it with a wood-glued join, pieces of the other half of the join come with it.

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Wow! Thanks to you all for taking the time to share your knowledge. You are so generous!

I wonder if PVA glue would work. I love it for other things because it is flexible and archival, but I wouldn't be confident about using it on a dollhouse without hearing that someone else has had success with it!

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