Calling all Paperclay experts

[Selkie]

I know this has been asked and explained more than once on this forum. I just can't seem to find the answers in a format that matches my brain. I have printed some tips from the Creative Paperclay website but the questions below just don't compute yet. I'm sorry for being repetitious in topics.

Here are my specific questions.

When using Paperclay for exterior, interior walls or floors or roofs of buildings:

- do you roll it out flat and score your design into it first, then put it on the wood?

- do you cut individual stones/bricks and glue them on one at a time?

- do you put it on the walls before you assemble the building or after it is built?

- do you put glue (which one?) on the wood or on the clay or both?

- how much bigger do you need to cut it to allow for shrinkage (if any)?

- if you stop partway through the project, do you have to use a slip/slurry or re-wet the dry clay somehow to attach new clay to it (thinking of shingle type application here) or must you complete it in one sitting?

- do you need to weight it for it to dry flat or prevent curling? (wouldn't that obliterate your design?)

- should you or can you sand it afterwards?

- how easy does it chip or crack after you have finished the project?

- how carefully do you need to store and care for it considering things like temp, humidity (does it get sticky again)?

- when do you paint, while flat on the work surface before you glue it on or after it is attached and dry on wood?

- do you use acrylic paint, oil based paint, watercolor, or pastels?

Thanks so much ahead of time for taking the time to help me.

[Minis Over The Hill]

I am not an expert by any means, but I rolled out the clay with a rolling pin on a plastic trash bag, then applied glue onto the house, then applied the clay and carved out the stones, then painted with watered down acrylic paint.

The inside clay I did prior to putting the house together, but the outside clay I did after. You can do it in sections and just kind of smooth the newer clay into the old. Probably everyone has their own technique.

[Chris P.]

I am also not an expert. I rolled out the clay, then pressed it on some limestone for texture, then glued it to the wood, then painted with acrylic paint when it was dry, then grouted with mosaic grout after the paint dried, then coated it with a matte varnish. I am very happy with the results, but it is very labor intensive. There are a lot of experts here with different techniques, probably better and easier.

I keep my paper clay in a zip lock plastic bag and so far, it has stayed fresh.

[Starfire]

- do you roll it out flat and score your design into it first, then put it on the wood?

You can do it either way. It depends on the size of the piece.

If the piece is a wall roll it out and score basic design. There will be reworking and rebuilding once it is on the wooden surface.

- do you cut individual stones/bricks and glue them on one at a time?

Again it depends on the effect you are after. I have made tiles both for the floor and for a fireplace as individual pieces, but generally I like to cover the surface and score it to indicate bricks or tile. One advantage of doing them individually is that you can create a grout line in a different color then the finished tile. It also is easier to handle the shrinkage question because you can adjust them while laying them just like a RL tile. If there is a large surface scoring is is best in terms of time and effort.

- do you put it on the walls before you assemble the building or after it is built?

For interior walls do it first, it is very difficult to add after construction. Just remember to do a dry fit and determine where overlaps of walls meeting are and indicate with a line for where window and doors will be. Those lines will provide your guides where to end the PC. For floors do it afterward.

- do you put glue (which one?) on the wood or on the clay or both?

I put the yellow carpenters glue on the wood surface and occasionally on the clay. This is what I was taught to use in Rik Pierce's class/. Other folks may use something different but it always has worked for me.

- how much bigger do you need to cut it to allow for shrinkage (if any)?

I seldom add anything extra to allow for this. While there is shrinkage it is not that much of a problem and is easy enough to deal with. Surface cracks will occur but a piece of very wet mix of paperclay can be smoothed into the surface to fill it in then rework/sculpt back into shape. Same technique for edges.

- if you stop partway through the project, do you have to use a slip/slurry or re-wet the dry clay somehow to attach new clay to it (thinking of shingle type application here) or must you complete it in one sitting?

When stopping on doing walls or other surfaces I always cover with a couple of layers of paper towels (short break) and for longer breaks add a piece of wax paper or tinfoil to "seal" in the dampness. Dampness surface to dampness is best when joining new work. With shingles I always stop at the end of an individual row. I did it both ways, adding some additional tiles to previously cured or dried layers and did wet the surface of the previous tiles with a spritz of of fine spray.

- do you need to weight it for it to dry flat or prevent curling? (wouldn't that obliterate your design?)

The glue will generally keep everything adhered to and flat to the backing. If the backing is very thin, it may very well curl up or warp and require straightening. I lay the piece face down on a towel and wet/dampen the reverse side with water or steam and cover it up with wax paper then weigh it down with cans or books.

- should you or can you sand it afterwards?

Not sure what you mean by sanding. If you are talking about surface sanding like in wood, the answer is generally no. Think rock effects etc. But it can be sanded to smooth or rework the dried area to obtain the effect or remove excess amounts. I have uses a fine point sander on my dremel to clean up or fix an area that got a bit over the area then I wanted or needed.

- how easy does it chip or crack after you have finished the project?

It is fairly sturdy stuff and requires moderate handling. I don't think I would use it on a kid's dollhouse cause theya are known to "pick" at something and can be rough on a smaller house. It should be sealed once you have completed paainting the stone, tile, brick, plaster effect. A damp rag used in cleaning can cause the paint to bleed or stain. I use a matt spray sealer to help prevent that.

- how carefully do you need to store and care for it considering things like temp, humidity (does it get sticky again)?

I don't have enough really long term experience as to how humidity would affect it. But it should stay firm and does not turn sticky once dry. I have used it for several pieces over the past five years and have had no problem.

- when do you paint, while flat on the work surface before you glue it on or after it is attached and dry on wood?

It is painted once it is dry no matter where it is.

- do you use acrylic paint, oil based paint, watercolor, or pastels?

I use acrylics but others have used watercolor and pastels. I think oil based paint may be too "heavy" but others may have used it with success.

Hope this answers your questions.

[Shy Spirit]

Also not an expert, but I love using the stuff!

I use wood glue, but tacky glue works as well.

There is some shrinkage, but not a lot. You can add fresh paperclay to extend the edges if necessary.

It can crack while drying (especially if it's thick), but that is easily fixed with a little damp "filler" paperclay.

It doesn't chip or crack when dry unless you use force. I accidentally dropped some paperclay tree stumps on a hard surface (kitchen floor) and was relieved to find them undamaged!

You don't have to do it all in one go - you can wet it down to attach fresh paperclay. I use a little glue to make sure it sticks.

Paperclay can be reconstituted with water, so you need to seal it when you have completed the job. I keep my paperclay in ziplock baggies too - but an older baggie didn't stay airtight, and I had hard, dried lumps of clay. I put it all in a new baggie, added water, let it sit overnight, and had lovely fresh paperclay in the morning!

You can sand dried paperclay - be careful not to inhale the dust. (It can also be carved.)

Paperclay is so versatile - there are many ways to use it, just experiment to find what works for you. I'm still learning - but haven't yet had a bad experience with it.

[Chris P.]

Beverly, that looks fantastic.

[havanaholly]

Tracy/ Minis on the Edge has taken several classes with Rik Pierce, and he IS an expert on paperclay.

[TreeFeathers]

Great list of questions. I haven't used paperclay much, but I want to do more with it and these are exactly some of the things I've wondered about. Thanks to all who are contributing answers!

[NotKateHepburn]

Regarding storing, I have used paper clay for over 10 years to make dolls and I seal some and others I do not. I've used beeswax and a spray sealer. The ones I do not seal are perfectly fine and have never softened or had problems. They've never cracked or chipped either, nor has the paint.

I live in Louisiana so I know heat and humidity :-)

I just roll out and place on the house, too much bother to make lines then blot them out when placing on the house. Any good glue will work, I add to the house.

[Minis On The Edge]

If You look at my "About Me' Page, you can see the various tutorials I have done on paperclay. You would use the same technique to apply it to walls, fireplaces or stone walkways. Hope this helps! :idea:

[WyckedWood]

One of these days,someone should do a you tube tutorial on paperclay techniques! So many people would love that, I think it would really help to see it done rather than read about it. I havent taken any classes, so my techniques and experiences are different,there arent any hard and fast 'rules',you cant really make a mistake,everything is easy to fix and start over if you dont like it. Fake it til ya make it :idea:

This is a link to a diary taken during one of Riks classes. It was really helpful to me.

http://www.sylvan.com/~isabella/mini/rikpierce.htm

One thing though...wish I had started out this way......buying a set of wooden clay tools is a must, it will make life so much easier no matter how you sculpt. I bought a nice set of tools at Micheals many years ago, still holding up fine, they came in their own case and with the coupon were only about $10.

[Selkie]

Wow !!!!! You guys are terrific !!! All the work that went into your instructions, for this I bless you.

I really think I get the general idea now. :victory: For some reason, I just couldn't wrap my head around it and was not understanding it before but it's SO much clearer now. The steps make sense now.

I should have known that my multi-talented GL family would save the day. You all have SO many gifts and talents. I'm always in awe of everyone's work.

I've saved all the links and printed all the advice. Now I just have to get to the store and get supplies. Then I need to get brave and dive in and see what happens. (Just a bit of a hint ... if I can do it with any success, I might be trying some of this technique for my SF2011. Time will tell.)

Thanks SO SO SO SO SO much. :idea: You all are lifesavers. So much wisdom and creativity.