cloudbound Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I've got 4 350-piece bags of dollhouse shingles that I want to dye together so that they all match well. The shingle dye I found at our local hobby store says its brown but the dye I see through the plastic bag looks dark red. I want dark brown, almost black. Any suggestions? I was wondering if fabric dye would work. Or even adding some brown and black craft paint to water and using that as dye. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selkie Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 India ink? Probably would turn out too gray though. The pigments probably aren't rich enough. I think watered down acrylic may make it gray rather than darken it, depending on the composition of the particular black. Some blacks have blue undertones and some have reds. I've never dyed them with fabric dye. Someone else might be able to help with that. Of course, you can just paint them but they do tend to warp. Flat paint wouldn't have the texture and variation to look natural, imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseymini Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 My favorite shingle dye is the one that I learned from Pat And Noel Thomas a long time ago. Grab a bottle of vinegar and some steel wool. I usually use a quart of vinegar (white or apple cider) to one roll of steel wool. Put both in a jar and let it sit, preferably outside for a day or two. Every once in a while, dip a shingle in it and let it dry. It will get stronger, the longer you let it steep. It will be a rich brown to a slightly aged silver gray when you get it finished, depending on the wood that the shingles are made of.. Usually the brown with commercial shingles. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smjsome Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Once i had a small house that the shingles were already on, and some were missing, so I replaced just those, of course they didn't match. So I took dark brown paint (craft paint) and some small dabs of dark grey, and black, I was able to blend it all to a satisfactory color. The shingles curled a bit, I panicked, but they went back down flat. It was my first house, and I didn't know they would curl up like that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I generally use Dark Walnut stain. It's a lovely dark brown almost black stain. I generally use Dark Walnut stain. It's a lovely dark brown almost black stain. Here it is on the Worthington:http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&image=99042 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalesq Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I've used Rite Dye successfully to dye shingles. I wear surgical gloves to avoid dying my hands and fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
More Minis Dollhouses Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 If your looking for a specific color why not make your own dye? I make my shingle stain using plain old craft paint, diluted with matte acrylic varnish. I just tweak the intensity of the hue by adding more paint or more varnish. That way I can stain my shingles any color I can imagine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudbound Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Gina, may I ask if you stain your shingles before you attach them or do you stain them once they're already on the house? There was another person who said he used actual wood stain but he didn't mention if he stained them before installation or brushed it on afterwards. I would think brushing it on afterwards would be easier but whatever method LOOKS best is what I will do.I was thinking that using the craft paint with water to thin it but your idea of the matte acrylic varnish sounds good. I ought to do a 'test'.Thank you very much for your suggestion.Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Pat, there is a method for staining shingles that involves the use of two disposable aluminum foil pans; poke holes all over the bottom of one of the pans, then set it into the second pan, fill it with your shingles and then add the stain, stirring the shingles to give them all equal stain coverage; lift the inner pan straight up to let all the leftover stain drain into the bottom pan, then spread out your shingles into a single layer on newspaper to dry (I would cover the newspaper with waxed paper but that's just me) and turn them over from time to time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selkie Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 It's really hard to get all the edges and nooks and crannies if you do it after they are glued on. It's not impossible, just harder. Often you are left with bare wood peeking out in odd spots. Painting the roofing wood underneath the same color as your shingles helps to hide unsightly gaps. The more water you use, the more likely you'll be fighting with warping. Using a solvent based glue for application helps cut that down some. Taping them down every few rows until dry helps too. Don't try to shingle the whole thing in one fell swoop. All that said there really isn't a single right or wrong way. Each person comes up with what works best for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudbound Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 The aluminum pans sounds like a great way to get the dying done and be able to just toss the mess afterwards. And THANK GOODNESS you mentioned painting the roof the dark color of my shingles BEFORE I startputting on the shingles! BRILLIANT! Thank you Selkie and havanahholly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smjsome Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Brilliant! I've never actually shingled, so many of these ideas. The aluminum pans, painting the roof first. Thank you for asking this question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueirishmoon Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 How helpful! I pick up new tips it seems every time I browse the forums. Sable, your Worthington looks very stately and elegant. I just love that dark roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clairevc Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 OK this has been very helpful info about dying the shingles. I am at that stage. I want to dye my shingles dark and light gray. I've been wondering how to go about it. Do I put them on first or do I dye them individually??? The directions say to use masking tape to secure a line of shingles before applying to roof. I was going to use Aileen's grab it glue???About the dying...I don't want them to warp because they are so thin. I think using craft paint and varnish might be my answer. I can make the color I want. Thanks for all the suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Claire, it has been my experience that even when the stain makes the shingles warp they flatten back out as they dry. I also prefer to glue them down with a thin bead of glue along where the top and the bottom of the shingle will attach, then when I have four or five courses laid, lay a strip of waxed paper over them and clamp a piece of scrapwood across them; they dry flat and I go work on something else until the glue sets up enough to unclamp, remove the waxed paper and lay a few more courses. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 OK this has been very helpful info about dying the shingles. I am at that stage. I want to dye my shingles dark and light gray. I've been wondering how to go about it. Do I put them on first or do I dye them individually??? The directions say to use masking tape to secure a line of shingles before applying to roof. I was going to use Aileen's grab it glue??? About the dying...I don't want them to warp because they are so thin. I think using craft paint and varnish might be my answer. I can make the color I want. Thanks for all the suggestions Dye them in two batches, one light, one dark. (See Havanaholly's post #9 above for how to do it). Paint the roof a medium gray (between the light and dark colors) so raw wood won't peek through. Run a thin line of glue along the top edge of the shingles. Aileen's is a waterbased glue that will cause warping if you smear it all over the back of the shingles, and that much glue really isn't necessary. Craft paint is also water based, so use sparingly. See Holly's post right about this one for other suggestions. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clairevc Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 So I should go with regular stain instead of craft paint and varnish??? Hope i can find two different grays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 So I should go with regular stain instead of craft paint and varnish??? Hope i can find two different grays. You can make your own stain with vinegar and cider. See Casey's post #3 above. Dye some shingles when it's light gray, then let it steep a bit longer for darker dye. Or -- if elect to buy stain, find a nice dark gray. You can make a lighter version by adding some white to it or thinning it with whatever is the base for the particular stain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selkie Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Using a solvent based glue rather than water based can cut down some of the warping. Think "water = more warp" for any of your selections whether paint, varnish, glues, etc. Some warping WILL occur no matter what you do but it flattens back down as it dries, hence the reason for taping it down while drying. Dyeing them in the double pan system lets them do their warping and then flatten out nicely again before applying to the roof. It's a fabulous method. Don't forget to draw out your straight lines on the roof first too. Read back through some of the beginning of this thread and you'll see a variety of ideas. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudbound Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Such wonderful hints and suggestions. I can't wait to do a few tests. I'll be reading and RE-READING this entire thread while I shingle. Thank you all SO much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudbound Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 HA HA - I hadn't heard about drawing out straight lines until just now. YIKES - one more thing to write down. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU Selkie from saving me from what might have been a really awful mistake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Another recipe for bug juice to stain shingles and other wood a gorgeous weathered silvery gray (besides vinegar and steel wool) is isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol without additives) and India ink. Add the India ink by droppersful and test a shingle until you get the saturation you want. Stop when you get to a nice, lighter gray. Then add a bit more ink until you get to the darker shade you want. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Applying the very first row the proper way is important! Cut your shingles into quarters (or in half depending on the slope of the roof) and use those along the bottom edges first. Then put a row of whole shingles on top of them. This sets up the proper slope of the shingles. If you don't do this the second row will not lay flat against the first row. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudbound Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thank you AGAIN. I hadn't heard about that either! All these things can make a big difference Sable, so I sure do appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiske Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 This was really helpful to read. I'll come back to this thread when I'm ready for shingling. Thanks for asking, Patricia! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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