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suzanneg

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Hello everyone,

I'm new to the dollhouse building. Had dollhouses growing up that my Grandfather built me loved them. I just bought the Beacon Hill dollhouse kit. I have never put one together before any advise would be appreciated. I seen the list of different things needed like shellac and wood alcohol but i'm not quite sure what wood alcohol is. Do i need all these things? THANKS

 

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Hello Suzanne,

welcome to the forum!.

Shellac and wood alcohol can be used as a sealer for wood - it is not necessary. An undercoat of primer does the same thing. 

I suggest you get some blue tape, clamps, wood glue, general purpose glue (just in case) and a utility knife, box cutter or X-acto knife (either will do). Before you remove the wood parts from the sheets, cut with the knife to get clean edges, sanding them is also a good idea. Be aware that everywhere you use glue on raw wood, wood stains won't work, but if you plan on using primer it is of no concern.

Hope this helps, but you also want to check out the beacon hill builder threads here in the forum.

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Welcome! Welcome!:cucumber:

exacto knife and plenty of blades...

sanding sponge is my preference over sandpaper...the paper is fine

the blue painters tape is a MUST for holding things in place for dry fit and drying

glue of your choice...BUT not hot glue gun for the actual build...even if the instructions say to

I have always used Aileens Tacky glue...this is my preference and for as many builders there are that is how many opinions about glue there is....

if you plan on staining the kit floors do all of that before glue...glue will keep stain from staining....

lots of fancy stuff out there...but really the above basic tools will get you started....

what you want to add to the house will dictate what tools and materials you will need next!!!

enjoy and have fun!!

nutti:batman:

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Welcome to the little family, Suzanne.  Tools vary according to individual preference.  I use a Stanley utility knife with the trapezoid shaped blades that is retractable, so that when I'm not actively cutting something the blade is out of sight and cannot cut me.  I use a good carpenter's wood glue (presently I'm using Probond, (I've had excellent results with Titebond, as well) for gluing wood parts together, and clear drying white all-purpose glue on the clear acetate window and door inserts.  Emery boards work really well for sanding the fiddly bits.  The blue painter's tape OR masking tape are for doing the dry fitting you'll want to do, as you might need to whittle or sand the tabs and slots for a more perfect fit, and it help to dry fit first to avoid "oopsies" in assembly or when you aren't sure you understand the instructions.  I prefer a flat white or off white interior latex paint to use for a primer, and spackling compound for smoothing the wood surface (spread it thin, scrape it flat with an expired credit card and sand it smooth as a baby's butt).  A cork-backed steel straight edge is nice, as is a carpenter's square.  Nice to have does not mean you have to have them.

I stain first, because if I change my mind later I can prime and paint over stain, but trying to stain over paint is the pits.

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