jaxenro Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Finally got the walnut burl for the drawer fronts it is going to take a lot of coats of polyurethane to fill the grain the first two just soaked in but I think when it's finally done it will look good. I have photo's of everything for the tutorial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 BTW the top finish looks more even in person just the cell phone photo makes it look like that. it needs to cure for a month then I can rub it out and polish it and then it will get that nice shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Oil based polyurethane dries to the touch within 12 to 24 hours but if you are going to "color sand" it and rub it out with rubbing compound it really takes a month or so to completely harden. Trying to rub it out before then it is still "rubbery" even though it doesn't feel it. The solvents evaporate in the first 12 hours or so but the full chemical dry takes three to four weeks That's why people use laquer or shellac as it doesn't take the month to dry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Oh, I'm a sucker for burl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 What would look really nice, but I'm not doing these with it, would be a thin line of a contrasting wood (stringing) set around the edge of the drawers about 1/16" in from the edge. Maybe the next one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 3 minutes ago, jaxenro said: What would look really nice, but I'm not doing these with it, would be a thin line of a contrasting wood (stringing) set around the edge of the drawers about 1/16" in from the edge. Maybe the next one. I was thinking the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra from Olde Cape Cod Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 That is beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kathi17 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 3 hours ago, jaxenro said: What would look really nice, but I'm not doing these with it, would be a thin line of a contrasting wood (stringing) set around the edge of the drawers about 1/16" in from the edge. Maybe the next one. That's what I was thinking. I have an antique bureau that belonged to my grandmother. Hers had burl drawers, and the thin line near the edges of the drawers. That would be a lot of work in miniature, because it would have to be so small! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Like Bill Studebaker's mini phonograph/ music box; you really have to see this in person to appreciate the artistry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 9 hours ago, kathi17 said: That's what I was thinking. I have an antique bureau that belonged to my grandmother. Hers had burl drawers, and the thin line near the edges of the drawers. That would be a lot of work in miniature, because it would have to be so small! I want to just work on the poly finish on this set but I will do another one soon with the lining and do a tutorial on it. It isn't hard or require a lot of tools just patience 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 18 minutes ago, pawsplus said: What about a burl inlay on the top? Next time. I actually have some veneer inlays coming for either table tops, or sideboards, or both, and some other tricks with banding inlay to show. I might veneer the cellarette's as well as they are a little small for inlays (at least I can't find them that small) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 I added the tutorial http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/?app=blog&module=blogs&controller=entry&id=2768 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kathi17 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I've wanted to buy some veneer inlays for a long time to use on my miniatures, as well as other wood products. Too bad bills get in the way, and every time I get the itch to buy them, I pay a bill instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 I paid $16 for 4 of them on eBay including shipping. Two round two ovals 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kathi17 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 6 minutes ago, jaxenro said: I added the tutorial http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/?app=blog&module=blogs&controller=entry&id=2768 Very nice Joel! You need to put a title above the link in your signature, letting people know the link is to your tutorials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kathi17 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 3 minutes ago, jaxenro said: I paid $16 for 4 of them on eBay including shipping. Two round two ovals I know they aren't very expensive, but there is always somethng we need more. I first started playing with veneers way back in the 70's. I was doing marquetry pictures, and getting my things from a place called Constantines. I think they are still in business. They had a lot of beautiful things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 1 minute ago, kathi17 said: I know they aren't very expensive, but there is always somethng we need more. I first started playing with veneers way back in the 70's. I was doing marquetry pictures, and getting my things from a place called Constantines. I think they are still in business. They had a lot of beautiful things! Yes they are they are the go to company for veneer. I have used them in the past a few times. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 All slick and shiny the other drawers are drying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Im looking forward to seeing what sort of hardware you use on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Nothing special I have some Housework's Chippendale pulls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) 30 minutes ago, pawsplus said: It's not easy finding alternate hardware! Those will look great. It isn't. I ordered some walnut and ash to make a campaign chest but I am thinking I might have to make my own brass hardware to go on it. Even finding thin walnut, mahogany, and ash can be hard but I found one place that sells 4" x 12" sheets for a decent price from 1/16" to 3/4" in most of the standard sizes and will cut to 1/32" and 3/32" for no additional charge. So I can buy scale lumber from a scale 3/8" to 1 1/2" in 3/8" increments to scale all my little pieces. I am going to try to replicate this in walnut with burl drawers and walnut case with ash as the secondary wood Edited February 8, 2016 by jaxenro 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 25 minutes ago, jaxenro said: It isn't. I ordered some walnut and ash to make a campaign chest but I am thinking I might have to make my own brass hardware to go on it. Even finding thin walnut, mahogany, and ash can be hard but I found one place that sells 4" x 12" sheets for a decent price from 1/16" to 3/4" in most of the standard sizes and will cut to 1/32" and 3/32" for no additional charge. So I can buy scale lumber from a scale 3/8" to 1 1/2" in 3/8" increments to scale all my little pieces. I am going to try to replicate this in walnut with burl drawers and walnut case with ash as the secondary wood This is real IGMA grade work. I take it you have some serious courses under your belt.........and to do this type of work you must have some pretty sophisticated tools. I notice you have no albums.....I'm sure I speak for most of us when I say I would love to see some pics of your past work it would be be something to aim for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 I used to do this years ago when I had a workshop. Just occasionally as I was more into black powder pistols and rifles and things like that. After three or four moves it all sort of slipped away so I am just getting back into it and have hardly any tools left and no pics. I will be getting tools as I go along to make this. Most of it is a simple case with veneer for the drawers. The hard parts I see are the drawer handles and the feet as I no longer have any type of lathe or access to one. Working with Ash instead of basswood is a lot easier and I can hand cut the dovetails with a razor saw. I like hand tools for miniatures it is relaxing and I do this for relaxation not work. I am going to do an old fashioned hand rubbed linseed oil finish so more hard work rubbing it in than the need for sophisticated tools. Campaign furniture is one of my favorite types. The concept of fine furniture made to be broken down into packing crates and set up again six months later and half a world away was just a more elegant way of life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elsbeth Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 O M G gorgeous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxenro Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 Making progress the bottom two need more clear the burl soaks it up like a sponge - sand - clear - sand - clear until the finish is level and glass smooth 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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