KathieB Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 17 minutes ago, Inge said: Oh Oh! I do not follow rules. I sure didn't spend any time drawing lines. lol. I started at the bottom and went "straight" across doing both sides at the same time. I cut the angle of the shingle with scissors. One half went on the left and one on the right. I was quite happy with the way my shingles turned out. You have a good eye! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I think what you need is an Angle Template. It is used to help cut the correct angle of the shingles which go against the valley. Line a piece of paper along the bottom of the roof. Press the side of the paper into the valley and make a fold. That fold becomes the angle of your cut. Measure the amount needed to be cut and place a mark on a shingle. Line the mark up against the bottom of the paper and the fold. Cut the shingle in line with the fold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I just found this link where in 2007 Holly gives the tip I just gave you above. I really hoped this helps you. http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=8309 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 I didn't realize she was asking about the angle cut where the two roof sections meet. The scrap paper angle template was something I figured out when I was shingling my first roof with gable (the Arthur) with wood shingles; since I used sandpaper on both the Buttercup and Sugarplum kits, and with those I simply folded my strips of sandpaper at the junction & cut along the fold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 10 hours ago, havanaholly said: I don't have a picture of the process. I lay a shingle along the bottom edge the way I'm going to glue it down and mark along the top with a pencil. I measure the distance between my pencil mark and the bottom edge of the roof and make more pencil marks at that distance across the width of the roof. I lay a shingle over the top of the first line with the amount of overlap I want, about 3/4 of the shingle's total length, and make a pencil mark along the top edge of that shingle and repeat to measurement and marking that I did for the first row, and draw my line. I then continue measuring that interval and drawing lines across the roof for the rest of the roof. When I have a gable or a dormer I put the roof into dry fit with the gable nd/ or dormer roofs and mark the place on those roofs where the lines on the main roof meet them. Using my carpenter's square to make the line perpendicular at the gable or dormer roof front I draw a line across to the pencil mark; I do double check the measurements on this. Here is a picture of how the roof looks after the shingles re on (I used construction paper for the shingles): Thank you for your reply, what do you mean by dry fit & what do you mean by dormant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 8 minutes ago, debbru said: Thank you for your reply, what do you mean by dry fit & what do you mean by dormant Dry fit means assembling the house without gluing it. Masking or painter's tape and clamps are helpful to do this. The dry fit process helps to assure a good fit when it comes time to glue, plus it alerts to places in the house that may be difficult to reach once it is glued. Those spots can be decorated before gluing. In the case of the roof, it's a good time to mark the location of the horizontal spacing lines that will guide the application of the shingles while it is in dry fit. Once everything works in dry fit, then it is taken apart and put back together with glue. I think your spell check spit out dormant instead of dormer. A dormer is a projection built out from a sloping roof. The center set of windows on the upper floor of Holly's house are dormer windows. The whole unit -- walls, roof and windows -- comprises a dormer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 50 minutes ago, debbru said: Thank you for your reply, what do you mean by dry fit & what do you mean by dormant Kathie did a great job explaining dry fit. A better way to show you about dormers (dormant?) and gables is with the Orchid, which has both: The large center second floor projection from the main roof is a gable. The smaller projections on either side of the gable are the dormers. As you can see in this picture, I sometimes cover roofs with treatments other than shingles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 15, 2016 Author Share Posted November 15, 2016 On 11/11/2016, 7:23:09, KathieB said: Dry fit means assembling the house without gluing it. Masking or painter's tape and clamps are helpful to do this. The dry fit process helps to assure a good fit when it comes time to glue, plus it alerts to places in the house that may be difficult to reach once it is glued. Those spots can be decorated before gluing. In the case of the roof, it's a good time to mark the location of the horizontal spacing lines that will guide the application of the shingles while it is in dry fit. Once everything works in dry fit, then it is taken apart and put back together with glue. I think your spell check spit out dormant instead of dormer. A dormer is a projection built out from a sloping roof. The center set of windows on the upper floor of Holly's house are dormer windows. The whole unit -- walls, roof and windows -- comprises a dormer. Thank you for explanation, it really helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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