KathieB Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 2 hours ago, debbru said: Thank you for your reply, I used hot melt glue & I glued yesterday afternoon Use a hair dryer to soften the glue and wiggle a metal putty knife or palette knife or any kind of thin-blade under the shingle to pop it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 If it is not too late and you plan on keeping the house by a sunny window, I would change to any glue but hot glue. Roofs tend to melt in the sun when hot glue is applied. That's why we typically advise against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thresadep Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 I used an iron before to remove shingles. Place a piece of cloth between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 When trying to remove Shinlges with a hairdryer, do you hold the hairdryer while removing the Shingles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 35 minutes ago, debbru said: When trying to remove Shinlges with a hairdryer, do you hold the hairdryer while removing the Shingles It depends on whether you can hold the hair dryer/ heat gun in one hand and the putty knife (or whatever you're using to remove them with) in the other at the same time, but not use them at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thresadep Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Be careful your hair dryer coils inside can heat up fast. Don't want to call the miniature firehouse. Lol I used a clothing iron before to remove my shingles. Used the steam setting to loosen the glue then scraped with putty knife. Might be a better way, I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 When gluing shingles onto the attic roof, can anyone tell me if they start on the edge & work your way across to the valley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 31 minutes ago, debbru said: When gluing shingles onto the attic roof, can anyone tell me if they start on the edge & work your way across to the valley I'd start the first row at the edge and work inward toward the valley to assure a nice, clean edge. The the last shingle in the row can be clipped to fit the angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 1 minute ago, KathieB said: I'd start the first row at the edge and work inward toward the valley to assure a nice, clean edge. The the last shingle in the row can be clipped to fit the angle. Thank you for your reply, would you do all the rows from the edge & work inwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Just now, debbru said: Thank you for your reply, would you do all the rows from the edge & work inwards Yes. For the second row I'd begin with a half shingle, so the shingles on this row would be offset, not directly above the ones in the first row. Then on the third row begin with a full shingle, fourth row a half shingle ... and so on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 24 minutes ago, KathieB said: Yes. For the second row I'd begin with a half shingle, so the shingles on this row would be offset, not directly above the ones in the first row. Then on the third row begin with a full shingle, fourth row a half shingle ... and so on. Would you mind sending me ab example please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 You don't indicate what kind of shingles you're using, but here is a primer on basic shingling. I'm sure other members will be able to add to the hints list. It's probably more information than you need, but I'm on a roll! The diagram is for a real house, so ignore the measurements and the felt layer, but maybe it will help illustrate the offset pattern described above. Some hints: 1) glue a piece of strip wood along the eave (bottom) edge, so the first row of shingles is slightly slanted for a more realistic look overall, where the illustration shows a starter strip. It will be covered by the first row of shingles. 2) Don't let the first row hang below the edge of the eave for two reasons -- real roof shingles don't hang over and the dollhouse shingles will tend to break off if they hang over. 3) There is no need to smear glue all over the shingle. A line of glue at the top (where the real shingle shows an adhesive strip), is all that's needed and will help prevent warping if the shingles are thin. 4) There are various theories as to which glue to use. Wood glue, white craft glue (not school glue, which is water soluble), a quick grab glue, hot glue, Liquid Nails and E-6000 are the most popular. Use whatever you have and are comfortable using. With the E-6000, be sure to work in a room with good circulation; it produces fumes. 5) Some folks glue a couple of rows and then tape them down with masking or painter's tape while they dry. Or cover with a piece of waxed paper to prevent sticking and clamp a board in place to hold them down. That's optional, depending on how a particular project is going. It's more useful when using a water based glue. 6) Painting the roof close to the color of the shingles before starting the shingling is a good idea. No matter how well you butt the shingles, tiny bits of the under roof will peek out and be distracting. 7) If you're going to stain the shingles, consider doing it before shingling. Two same-size, toss-out aluminum baking pans, one with holes punched in the bottom, like a sieve, can be used. Put the stain in the pan without the holes. Put the shingles (or part of them - don't crowd) in the sieve. Lower the sieve into the stain bath and leave it there (gently stirring to be sure the stain reaches all) until the desired shade is reached. Then remove the sieve and let it drain into the bottom pan, dump the shingles out onto newspaper and/or paper towels and spread them out to dry. Some may curl a bit; they generally flatten out again as they dry. Don't worry about irregularities in color among the shingles; it will add to the reality. 8) Other roof treatments include painting with craft acrylics or interior latex house paint or imitating asphalt shingles with a stone-finish spray paint. Asphalt shingles don't need painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Sandpaper in coarser grits can be used to simulate asphalt shingles and colored with chalk pastels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Kathie, I'm so glad you mentioned the starter strip. Excellent advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 17 hours ago, KathieB said: You don't indicate what kind of shingles you're using, but here is a primer on basic shingling. I'm sure other members will be able to add to the hints list. It's probably more information than you need, but I'm on a roll! The diagram is for a real house, so ignore the measurements and the felt layer, but maybe it will help illustrate the offset pattern described above. Some hints: 1) glue a piece of strip wood along the eave (bottom) edge, so the first row of shingles is slightly slanted for a more realistic look overall, where the illustration shows a starter strip. It will be covered by the first row of shingles. 2) Don't let the first row hang below the edge of the eave for two reasons -- real roof shingles don't hang over and the dollhouse shingles will tend to break off if they hang over. 3) There is no need to smear glue all over the shingle. A line of glue at the top (where the real shingle shows an adhesive strip), is all that's needed and will help prevent warping if the shingles are thin. 4) There are various theories as to which glue to use. Wood glue, white craft glue (not school glue, which is water soluble), a quick grab glue, hot glue, Liquid Nails and E-6000 are the most popular. Use whatever you have and are comfortable using. With the E-6000, be sure to work in a room with good circulation; it produces fumes. 5) Some folks glue a couple of rows and then tape them down with masking or painter's tape while they dry. Or cover with a piece of waxed paper to prevent sticking and clamp a board in place to hold them down. That's optional, depending on how a particular project is going. It's more useful when using a water based glue. 6) Painting the roof close to the color of the shingles before starting the shingling is a good idea. No matter how well you butt the shingles, tiny bits of the under roof will peek out and be distracting. 7) If you're going to stain the shingles, consider doing it before shingling. Two same-size, toss-out aluminum baking pans, one with holes punched in the bottom, like a sieve, can be used. Put the stain in the pan without the holes. Put the shingles (or part of them - don't crowd) in the sieve. Lower the sieve into the stain bath and leave it there (gently stirring to be sure the stain reaches all) until the desired shade is reached. Then remove the sieve and let it drain into the bottom pan, dump the shingles out onto newspaper and/or paper towels and spread them out to dry. Some may curl a bit; they generally flatten out again as they dry. Don't worry about irregularities in color among the shingles; it will add to the reality. 8) Other roof treatments include painting with craft acrylics or interior latex house paint or imitating asphalt shingles with a stone-finish spray paint. Asphalt shingles don't need painting. Thank you for the diagram. I've attached a picture of the cottage I'm constructing & on the roof where I've marked, how do you put shingles on would you start from the outside & work in to the centre or from the centre out? Also I live in Australia & could you tell me where I a dealer would be that specialises in accessories for dollshouses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 I've attached a picture of the cottage I'm constructing & on the roof where I've marked, how do you put shingles on would you start from the outside & work in to the centre or from the centre out? Also I live in Australia & could you tell me where I a dealer would be that specialises in accessories for dollshouses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Debbie, for shingling roofs I begin at the bottom edge and work up, and from the outer straight side inward towards any "seams" where sections of roof join. I can't help you out on locating miniature stockists in Oz, but we have several members who live there who might be able to help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 6 hours ago, debbru said: Thank you for the diagram. I've attached a picture of the cottage I'm constructing & on the roof where I've marked, how do you put shingles on would you start from the outside & work in to the centre or from the centre out? Also I live in Australia & could you tell me where I a dealer would be that specialises in accessories for dollshouses Yes, start at the outer edge and work inward. Note how this illustration shows the singles overhanging the edge of the roof. Some folks do it that way, some make the shingles flush with the edge of the roof. The latter is better if children will be playing with the house; less likely to snap them off. Like Holly, I'm not aware of sources for mini furniture and accessories in Australia. I know that our Australian members often mention having to wait a long time for overseas delivery of items. Hopefully they will weigh in here soon with better news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mesp2k Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 How I would do it? Measure increments up front edge Use combination square to draw horizontal lines Glue a starter stick at the bottom to lift the edge of the 1st shingle Glue shingles from the bottom front edge working back & up (trim as needed) The comb. sqr. ruler slides in & out so you can butt the ruler right to the corner & still have the square flush up against the front wall. (90 degrees) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 What some people do is make a cardboard template of the roof. Glue the shingles on it, in this case from right to left. Then cut the angles after all of the shingles are attached. Then glue the entire shingled board onto the roof. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mesp2k Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 13 hours ago, debbru said: I've attached a picture of the cottage I'm constructing & on the roof where I've marked, how do you put shingles on would you start from the outside & work in to the centre or from the centre out? Also I live in Australia & could you tell me where I a dealer would be that specialises in accessories for dollshouses I just noticed you have 2 topics called "Shingles". Please see my drawing above. Just replace the wood shingles with mini asphalt shingles or facsimile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mesp2k Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 7 hours ago, Sable said: What some people do is make a cardboard template of the roof. Yes, great idea Sable. Debbie, the template idea is good for walls, floors & ceilings also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thresadep Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 1 hour ago, mesp2k said: Yes, great idea Sable. Debbie, the template idea is good for walls, floors & ceilings also. Agree. The next house I do from a kit, I am going to make trace of all walls, floors and roof before assembly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 Can anyone tell me should you put the shingles on first before you put the trimmings on the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Great idea Thresadep. Off to make templates of my San Franciscan before I get too far along. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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