Sable Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 But yours would look better keeping the fishtail. I was just showing how to butt them up on the top. I recommend you cut fishtails in half and use the bottom half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 I've attached a picture of my dollshouse, can someone tell me what the best way to put Shingles on the roof in front of the finials Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuttiwebgal Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I usually install those cute lil things after I shingle.... I would use my hair dryer on it pop it off and shingle on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 If I'm building the house for someone who insists on having all that roof trim & finials,, I also put it on AFTER shingling. I would remove those finials, give the roof a coat of whatever stain I'm using on the shingles, and shingle the roof up to the top, glue the ridge trim in the gap between the tops of the shingles and then glue the finials onto the shingled roof at either end of the ridge trim, as I did for the Arthur: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I see the problem. Your slope is off. You are glueing the bottom of each tile to the tile under it rather than the top of each tile to the roof itself. This has thrown off the slope. The top of each tile should be glued to the roof not floating in the air. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I would also create a filler piece to complete the roof's peak so it doesn't look disjointed. Then the tiles should lay on it more cohesively. Make a "V" out of scrap wood and blend in into the peak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 The Arthur (in my picture) and the Storybook Cottage Debbie's build) have the same type of roof trim & finials. IMO its just easier to remove the finials, shingle the roof,and then glue on the trim & finials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 16 hours ago, havanaholly said: If I'm building the house for someone who insists on having all that roof trim & finials,, I also put it on AFTER shingling. I would remove those finials, give the roof a coat of whatever stain I'm using on the shingles, and shingle the roof up to the top, glue the ridge trim in the gap between the tops of the shingles and then glue the finials onto the shingled roof at either end of the ridge trim, as I did for the Arthur: Thank you for your help, unlike the Arthur, on the Storybook Cottage the finials aren't right on the edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 15 hours ago, havanaholly said: The Arthur (in my picture) and the Storybook Cottage Debbie's build) hve the same type of roof trim & finials. IMO its just easier to remove the finials, shingle the roof,and then glue on the trim & finials. Thank you for your help, if I remove the finials I still have the supports that the finials sit on. I have attached a pic. so you can understand what I mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 15 hours ago, Sable said: I would also create a filler piece to complete the roof's peak so it doesn't look disjointed. Then the tiles should lay on it more cohesively. Make a "V" out of scrap wood and blend in into the peak. Thank you for your help, would you showing me a diagram so I know how to achieve it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I'm not sure I'm understanding the challenge. Would you not just cut shingles to fit around the tab and finial? I see on the part of the roof in the background that there is a need for a half-shingle to the right of the tab that sticks through the roof to finish off the top row. Would not the same approach work on the part in question? Sable's suggestion to glue the top of each shingle to the roof instead of gluing the bottom of the shingle to the top of the one below it would cure the gap. Is that hot glue I see? I think if you squeeze a little blob under the shingle, the shingle should be flexible enough to press against the roof to close the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 24 minutes ago, KathieB said: I'm not sure I'm understanding the challenge. Would you not just cut shingles to fit around the tab and finial? I see on the part of the roof in the background that there is a need for a half-shingle to the right of the tab that sticks through the roof to finish off the top row. Would not the same approach work on the part in question?... I have a Storybook Cottage in my rehab pile, and I see the finial problem now. On the one I have the builder simply set the finials on the roof and shingled around them. When I finally get around to the rehab, I shall remove them, along with the shingles (my rehab Greenleaf kit houses were all built with hot glue). The gingerbread trim make adorable houses, but so far none of the houses I've built since they began to talk to me have wanted much of the froufrou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 9 hours ago, debbru said: Thank you for your help, would you showing me a diagram so I know how to achieve it I'll do a mockup later today and take pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 See if these pics help. I added some trim in the front to give it a finished appearance. Below, a dowel might be better. As long as you use something that the top of the shingle can rest on. Add some trim and it hides all kinds of problems. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 In the second photo if I replaced the fiil in bit at the top and of the two roofs with glue, do you think it would look ok or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 3 hours ago, debbru said: In the second photo if I replaced the fiil in bit at the top and of the two roofs with glue, do you think it would look ok or not What about a strip of 1/8" square wood like Sable shows in this photo: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 50 minutes ago, havanaholly said: What about a strip of 1/8" square wood like Sable shows in this photo: Exactly, put a little spackle on it and sand it to form a clean peak. I would have done this but decided to just cover it with the trim. Either way would solve the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Repeat the mantra: "Smoke and mirrors, smoke and mirrors, smoke and mirrors." Do whatever you want to achieve the look you want. There's no right or wrong way. In the end, if you're happy with how it looks, it's all good. And if you're not happy with how it looks, take it apart and do it another way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 13 minutes ago, KathieB said: Repeat the mantra: "Smoke and mirrors, smoke and mirrors, smoke and mirrors." Do whatever you want to achieve the look you want. There's no right or wrong way. In the end, if you're happy with how it looks, it's all good. And if you're not happy with how it looks, take it apart and do it another way. AMEN!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 How do you make the shingles line up in the valley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 6 hours ago, debbru said: How do you make the shingles line up in the valley Draw evenly spaced horizontal lines on the roof parts to guide you in gluing the shingles. If the line marks meet at the valley, then the shingles will line up, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Draw your lines to line the top of each row of shingles allowing for the overlap after the bottom row. I learned that this was the only way I could keep the rows of shingles straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debbru Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 8 hours ago, havanaholly said: Draw your lines to line the top of each row of shingles allowing for the overlap after the bottom row. I learned that this was the only way I could keep the rows of shingles straight. 8 hours ago, havanaholly said: Draw your lines to line the top of each row of shingles allowing for the overlap after the bottom row. I learned that this was the only way I could keep the rows of shingles straight. Thank you for your reply, would you mind showing me what you mean please 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I don't have a picture of the process. I lay a shingle along the bottom edge the way I'm going to glue it down and mark along the top with a pencil. I measure the distance between my pencil mark and the bottom edge of the roof and make more pencil marks at that distance across the width of the roof. I lay a shingle over the top of the first line with the amount of overlap I want, about 3/4 of the shingle's total length, and make a pencil mark along the top edge of that shingle and repeat to measurement and marking that I did for the first row, and draw my line. I then continue measuring that interval and drawing lines across the roof for the rest of the roof. When I have a gable or a dormer I put the roof into dry fit with the gable nd/ or dormer roofs and mark the place on those roofs where the lines on the main roof meet them. Using my carpenter's square to make the line perpendicular at the gable or dormer roof front I draw a line across to the pencil mark; I do double check the measurements on this. Here is a picture of how the roof looks after the shingles re on (I used construction paper for the shingles): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inge Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Oh Oh! I do not follow rules. I sure didn't spend any time drawing lines. lol. I started at the bottom and went "straight" across doing both sides at the same time. I cut the angle of the shingle with scissors. One half went on the left and one on the right. I was quite happy with the way my shingles turned out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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