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First Dollhouse


wilson

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Hi: I built the Harrison first and now almost finished the Garfield.  When building the Harrison I put it all together like the instructions said EXCEPT I did not put in the windows until I had made curtains for all the rooms. I thought about it and wondered how I would get the curtains in with the windows in. Glad I did it my way. I did put the inside window trim on though. I then had to make a template of each wall to wallpaper which I thought was a lot of work.  Soooooooooooo when building the Garfield I put all the wallpaper on first.  I would never do that again.  When gluing the outside walls together all the overlap got stuck in between.  I allowed 1/4" overlap.  It created more work for me as I had to replace a lot of the wallpaper.  I was glad I bought rolls of wallpaper from the wallpaper store so I had lots and lots and lots to work with. lol. I also tried to finish as much wallpapering, door trim, baseboard and crown  moulding that I could before putting the next floor on. You just have to think about what you can get done befoe gluing it all together. 

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Don't used hot glue. Dry fit everything together before glueing. In other words, put the whole house together using blue tape and cut tabs as needed to get a snug fit.  You can prime the wood before glueing but don't prime it before punching the pieces out. 

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The Laurel I got had been built with hot glue, so it was falling apart; I finished taking it apart and scraped off all the hot glue and rebuilt it with carpenter's wood glue:  http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/?app=gallery&module=gallery&controller=browse&album=1103  Because everything that was there was glued in, removing the windows and doors destroyed them, so I made all new ones from mini millwork and basswood (thanks to Hobby Lobby) and flat acetate packaging.  I made a bedroom closet, a wall for the bathroom, which also made an upstairs hall, and I had to build the missing porch from scratch; so I used foamboard for both the extra walls and the porch roof.

To answer your questions, I dry fit the house with painter's tape (the blue stuff) and traced where I was going to glue wood to wood.  When I took it all apart again I cut strips of tape 1/4" wide to mask off the places I wanted to glue and primed the walls & ceiling.  I made templates of the floors and used the Greenleaf self-stick tiles & flooring strip downstairs and recycled the surviving ceramic tiles I had scraped off part of the downstairs floor to make the bathroom floor.  I put up the walls with the first floor and did the downstairs interior décor.  I installed the second floor and walls and did that interior décor and installed the first floor stairs.  When I installed the third floor I put in the second floor stairs.  Then I installed the doors' and windows' interior trims and built the kitchen bay.  Then I did the exterior décor and installed the exterior trims along with the windows & doors; then I added the porch, and finally I installed the roof and shingled.

I don't wire my houses for electricity, so you will probably want to take photos of your tape runs/ wiring before you cover them up with wall treatments.

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Thanks for the suggestions.

What type of paint is best for painting dollhouses. There is a alot of information out there. Some say semi-matt, some say semi-gloss, others say acrilyic from a hobby store can be used. I live in an apartment so I dont have paint sitting around from painting a regular house and I want it to be inexpensive. Any ideas?

 

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I use flat or eggshell finish interior latex paint in the 4-ounce sample pots from the hardware store.  If I have a lot of exterior area to cover I mix it with some of the quart of flat white interior latex paint I use for primer.

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Flat or satin craft paints are fine.  Keep in mind painting usually requires a thin coat of drywall mud first to eliminate the wood grain. Wait 24 hours to dry. Then a lot of sanding with a sanding sponge to make it smooth. I sand outside. Then primer,  then dry for a few hours because the primer will moisten the drywall mud. Then paint. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/11/2017, 11:29:16, Inge said:

Hi: I built the Harrison first and now almost finished the Garfield.  When building the Harrison I put it all together like the instructions said EXCEPT I did not put in the windows until I had made curtains for all the rooms. I thought about it and wondered how I would get the curtains in with the windows in. Glad I did it my way. I did put the inside window trim on though. I then had to make a template of each wall to wallpaper which I thought was a lot of work.  Soooooooooooo when building the Garfield I put all the wallpaper on first.  I would never do that again.  When gluing the outside walls together all the overlap got stuck in between.  I allowed 1/4" overlap.  It created more work for me as I had to replace a lot of the wallpaper.  I was glad I bought rolls of wallpaper from the wallpaper store so I had lots and lots and lots to work with. lol. I also tried to finish as much wallpapering, door trim, baseboard and crown  moulding that I could before putting the next floor on. You just have to think about what you can get done befoe gluing it all together. 

I am currently remodeling a Garfield. I thought I would remodel one before building one. Anyways, do you have any guidance when it comes to the steps ? I need new windows, siding, shingles, wall paper. Do I put the windows on first and then siding? Also, what size siding did you use? I took the roof off so I will be using the strip shingles to go a little bit faster. 

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I lay the trims for doors and windows over their openings and trace round them, them set them aside and butt siding strips up to the tracing line.  If you use component window & doors, you will likely need to adjust your openings to fit.  Also, the replacement component are made to fit 3/8" wood, and the Greenleaf kit wood is 1/8" thick, so for the Garfield you will be OK to bring the siding strips up even with the door & window openings.  I really like using the Greenleaf siding strips.

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