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Replacing windows on the Beacon Hill


AndreaJane

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...or more specifically - replacing the plastic/acetate inserts.   Does anyone have a DIY method for getting the crisp printed mullions?  Just replacing the windows would be easy enough - I can use plain acetate sheets and cut out the appropriate shape but I really don't want to lose the charm of the mullions.  

I have reached out to Greenleaf customer service to see if they self replacement window plastic sheets, but, supposing they don't - Has anyone tried or heard of anyone replacing the windows on the Beacon Hill or any other house for that matter?

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You can most certainly buy the replacement acetate insert sheets for the Beacon Hill directly from Greenleaf:  http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/about-us/greenleaf_dollhouse.html

When I make my own windows I use clear plastic sheets; if I want mullions I paint them on; if I want stained glass I use transparency printer sheets to print them on (if I use stained glass printies) or I paint them directly onto the plastic using transparent water color.  I haven't built a Bacon Hill, but I made replacement windows on the Laurel and the Washington 2.0 and was in the process of making all new windows & doors for the Pierce before it got destroyed in the move to AL.

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For leaded windows folks have made lead lines using golfer's lead tape cut into narrow strips. Has anyone ever used nail art striping tape to make mullions? Or auto striping tape? It comes in 1/16" width.  I think it would add a bit of realism to the window as the mullion would be raised a hair. Even more realistic if it were applied to both inside and outside of the window.

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31 minutes ago, KathieB said:

For leaded windows folks have made lead lines using golfer's lead tape cut into narrow strips. Has anyone ever used nail art striping tape to make mullions? Or auto striping tape? It comes in 1/16" width.  I think it would add a bit of realism to the window as the mullion would be raised a hair. Even more realistic if it were applied to both inside and outside of the window.

What a good idea!

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When I was commissioned by a local dollhouse shop years ago to finish building a Beacon hill that a Grandfather had started, but never completed, they had already added the windows and the acetate had turned yellow. I ended up using a hobby knife to cut it out (it was mostly crumbly). It had been in an uninsulated garage in Chicago for 15 years. Anyway, because I was under tight time constraints to have the house built and painted on the outsides for Christmas, I cut a new window outer frame using a thin cardboard for each window. I used a spray paint primer after I cut them. Then, I installed new acetate windows on top of the old trim and used my card trim (that I painted, lightly sanded, then painted again) and put it on top of the new "window". It turned out Great. I had less than 20 days to do that house and didn't have time to wait for replacements to come. I was 8 months pregnant with my last child. I can't believe the energy I had back then sometimes cause I also worked full time. I'll look for pictures of it. I may have it in my albums here somewhere. 

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Unfortunately I don't have inside shots. These were taken on a Polaroid camera and I guess I don't have inside shots. Some of the cardboard trim was done on the inside of the windows. The customer picked the colors. 

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When I built my first buttercup kit I didn't notice there was no interior window trim until it was finished & donated for a Christmas silent auction where I worked; thereafter whenever I have encountered missing trim I head straight for one of the sheets of posterboard I keep on hand.

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I have used correction tape to make the mullions on windows, mostly because it was something I had around and thought it could work. I put it on both sides. It is somewhat sticky on the back and not too wide for 1:12 scale. I tried painting them on and found the tape gave it more depth.

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Thanks everyone.  I tried a practice one on a some acetate by just drawing on the lines (tracing the original) and my lines are so wobbly!  It's a good thing I'm not a surgeon.  

I'm going to hold out for the replacement sheets but if that doesn't pan out I may give the nail art or the auto striping tape.  I do want to keep some of that dimension.

Edited to add:  One of the reasons I want to replace them (other than the fact they are kind of groady looking) is it will make painting the house ever so much easier if I don't have to painstakingly tape of each window inside and out.  

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24 minutes ago, AndreaJane said:

Edited to add:  One of the reasons I want to replace them (other than the fact they are kind of groady looking) is it will make painting the house ever so much easier if I don't have to painstakingly tape of each window inside and out.  

I hear you. Good planning!

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When I'm building a kit I sand, prep and paint the window & door trims and install the inserts (and strips for hinges, if I'm using that method) and lay them aside where I can see them until after I have finished decorating the interior and exterior walls, so the doors and windows are the very last parts installed; then I don't have to worry about splopping paint on everything.

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On 4/15/2017, 1:02:04, MikeUK said:

Hi Andrea your windows could be done by vinyl...........I cut vinyl on my Cameo 3 machine and that is transferred to the acetate in the same way you would make window signs.........there are a few examples in my 'Modular Home' album.........If you can't find a solution over there just let me have the sizes and I'd be happy to do it!........The vinyl comes in a range of colours but white sounds what you need!

I also have a cameo and the vinyl method works great! 

When I want to make stained glass windows, I cut thin strips of lead tape. There are a few examples in my (very out of date) Alison Jr. album. 

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