Tool advice - which knife for someone who loathes cutting mat board?

[Elsbeth]

Ugh - either I am physically incapable of cutting mat board, or I just don't have the right type of knife.

 

In short my question is: which type/brand of craft knife do you love and do you feel makes your work easier than the standard thing you pick up at the hardware store for cheap?

The long version: I've got some wonderful 4ply mat board. I want to cut parts for a 1:48 house.

OK, so there is no micro saw option for mat board apparently. Nothing comes up in a googlesearch - all the mat boarders are using knives I guess.  

So I have an assortment of razor saws, knives - and pressing down, staying on the straight edge is hard work for me with this mat board - too hard really. I have a standard exacto, a snap off blade knife, retractable utility knife from hardware store, and Xacto razor saw - all work fine on foam board but not mat board, I have new blades for all. This 4 ply mat board is pretty darn solid.  It feels impossible at the moment...and surely it can't be - there have to be other people who use mat board for dollhouses and find a way to cut is easily.  I am not the person who can press down so hard for a zillion little cuts. My current knives will break or turn their anger towards me (lol). Nor can I farm this out to someone who is stronger. Help.

I have a logan mat board cutting tool, it is nice, but harder for smaller cuts (example: 4 inches by 2 inches). I use this for longer/larger cuts. My project is smallish pieces with angles (rooflines). But lots of smallish pieces.

Anyone have this?

https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-Quick-change-Folding-Utility-Included/dp/B015R0HTQ0/

 

 

 

[Elsbeth]

I was thinking if a micro table saw could cut balsa (with fine blade) couldn't it handle mat board? Why is no one cutting mat board with a mini table saw?

[Sable]

I have that tool from Sears. It is the same as a utility knife.  My mini table saw will cut mat board but it is not a clean cut. It is very chewed up. A straight edge is your best tool.  Michaels had a cutting board for cutting mat board for framing the problem was it only cut beveled edges and was about $100. I returned it as soon as I realized it just did beveled cuts. I was sad because I knew it would have been perfect. i dread cutting mat board by hand, too.

MikeUK has and expensive system for this. It might be a CNC, not sure.

[Mid-life madness]

I have no hand strength, so I feel your pain!

I bought this, it is for foam board, but it is easier for me because I can press down on it.  Logan,  it has guide ruler accessory.

I accidentally came across this when I was googling the other thing, and it looks promising.

I also cut my mat board with a band saw.

[Elsbeth]

1 minute ago, Mid-life madness said:

I have no hand strength, so I feel your pain!

I bought this, it is for foam board, but it is easier for me because I can press down on it.  Logan,  it has guide ruler accessory.

I accidentally came across this when I was googling the other thing, and it looks promising.

I also cut my mat board with a band saw.

How are the edges with a band saw? Ultra fine teeth? Wow! 

 

 

[Elsbeth]

 

3 minutes ago, Mid-life madness said:

 

I accidentally came across this when I was googling the other thing, and it looks promising.

 

I have a logan adaptarule system - it is really nice for larger cuts. I think if I were doing 1:12 it would be fine, but these 1:48 cuts can be so small that I have trouble overshooting the cuts. But I might try again. Thanks!

[Elsbeth]

14 minutes ago, Sable said:

My mini table saw will cut mat board but it is not a clean cut. It is very chewed up. A straight edge is your best tool.  

I was wondering about the mini table saw. So it chews up the edges. I was thinking if I used a blade that claims it can do balsa, that it could do mat board, but...it helps to hear from someone who has done it. I was considering the micromark mini table saw with fine blade, but that is a lot to invest in something that I am not sure will work. THanks!

[Mid-life madness]

It is the original blade that came on the saw, the teeth are about 1/8th inch apart. The edge seemed fine to me. You can sand it with really fine sand paper.

[Elsbeth]

16 minutes ago, Sable said:

I have that tool from Sears. It is the same as a utility knife.  

Sable - do you like that knife? Does it make cutting easier?

[Elsbeth]

12 minutes ago, MikeUK said:

 

The only cutter I've ever used is a 'Swann Morton' scalpel...........which takes the 10a blade. It used to be the knife of choice in the graphics industry over here. It's cuts mat board and mount board cleanly, accurately and with very little pressure...........Costs under £10 and I absolutely guarantee it cuts better than any.....any craft knife regardless of price.

I change blades every couple of days........100 blades around £8. It also cuts Basswood up to 5mm. It's a small knife so look for one with a 'rubber' cover over the handle. This is such a controllable knife.

I do use a Logan cutter for bevels but all straight cuts are the scalpel........there are some examples in my 'Kensington House' album.

 https://www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk/blade-detail_23_no-10a-non-sterile-carbon-steel-scalpel-blade-swann-morton-product-no-0102-.php

My mat board is 1/16th inch which would be 1.5 mm maybe? Do you have to press super hard? Why am I having to press so hard to get middling results? I must have crappy blades. Hmmmph! I am going to look at Swann Morton now. Thanks!

[Elsbeth]

6 minutes ago, MikeUK said:

1/16th is about 1.5mm and no the last thing you do is press hard...........the first light cut will ensure all you need is a couple of medium weight cuts to make it clean............going in too hard at the first cut rarely leads to a clean line...........and if you're cutting 'inside' a frame you need control...........lightness of cut means more control!

Aha...so perhaps it is my method, too. I am learning - learning from the best thanks to all of you! It takes a village...to help me build a tiny house apparently. Many thanks!

I so wish there was a mat board power saw that could do things cleanly a quickly. I worry I'll drop the scalpel and I'll be unaware it is embedded in my foot! lol

[havanaholly]

I use my Stanley utility knife with retractable blade.  I use a cork-backed steel straight edge and I do NOT press down, I make several fairly light cuts, each one naturally goes deeper than the one before.  I use this technique for mat board foam board and basswood.  Absolutely I always change the blade the instant it starts to "pull"; never cut with a dull blade!

[KathieB]

53 minutes ago, havanaholly said:

I use my Stanley utility knife with retractable blade.  I use a cork-backed steel straight edge and I do NOT press down, I make several fairly light cuts, each one naturally goes deeper than the one before.  I use this technique for mat board foam board and basswood.  Absolutely I always change the blade the instant it starts to "pull"; never cut with a dull blade!

This is my method as well. All the talk about pushing hard in earlier posts sent up all kinds of red flags. Having a steel straight edge is key to clean, straight cuts. Easy does it. Several light cuts to get a groove for the knife to follow, then you can use medium pressure or continue with light pressure. The knife will slice through eventually. In my experience, it doesn't matter what kind of knife -- utility, scalpel, eXacto -- so long as the blade is new, SHARP.  

[Sable]

4 hours ago, Elsbeth said:

Sable - do you like that knife? Does it make cutting easier?

It cuts exactly the same as a retractable utility knife. The squared off edges of the handle don't feel as comfortable as a ulility knife.  It uses the exact same blade as a ulility knife. I bought it for the modern look of it. It sits in my tool box.

[Qubanqtee]

I use a scalpel, 10 pack for about $8 on Amazon Prime.  Cuts anything and with little to no pressure.

 

[Selkie]

19 hours ago, MikeUK said:

The only cutter I've ever used is a 'Swann Morton' scalpel...........which takes the 10a blade. It used to be the knife of choice in the graphics industry over here. It's cuts mat board and mount board cleanly, accurately and with very little pressure...........Costs under £10 and I absolutely guarantee it cuts better than any.....any craft knife regardless of price.

Thanks for the link to these tools. I kind of got lost on the website looking at all the cool medical and craft supplies. This from the person who can't be trusted with sharp objects, you know, the one who put a blade completely through her finger last night while preparing dinner. And yes, in one side and out the other, whacking the bone on the way through. sigh ...

Just wondering if you have noticed any particular difference for the medical model #3 - 10a blade vs. the craft model #3 - 10a blade? Is one actually sharper or are they just marketing titles?

[Littlebirdieb]

I don't have this tool but I did notice that there is a very similar knife listed on the site with slightly better reviews. It is also $12.99

4.7 / 5 ☆ 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MSWKPKF?psc=1

[Elsbeth]

Well, I ordered the swann morton scalpel and a box of 10a blades. I hope I got the right kind. I got from a seller who had loads of medical gear. Wow. That a was fun online store! I am a little wary...the sterile 10a box was $5 cheaper than the non-sterile 10a. Hmmmm.

I will try this - with light pressure, let the blade do its work...and we'll see how it goes! I can't wait to try - thanks for all this great info!

I too am wondering about all the different blade #s - 11, 10, 3, 10a. I will go google that - but if anyone wants to share their experience...

Thanks again for all your help, everybody!!!!!!

[Qubanqtee]

2 hours ago, Elsbeth said:

Well, I ordered the swann morton scalpel and a box of 10a blades. I hope I got the right kind. I got from a seller who had loads of medical gear. Wow. That a was fun online store! I am a little wary...the sterile 10a box was $5 cheaper than the non-sterile 10a. Hmmmm.

I will try this - with light pressure, let the blade do its work...and we'll see how it goes! I can't wait to try - thanks for all this great info!

I too am wondering about all the different blade #s - 11, 10, 3, 10a. I will go google that - but if anyone wants to share their experience...

Thanks again for all your help, everybody!!!!!!

Most of the scalpel sizes have to do with blade shape - I buy the 10 or 11 and I've had success with both sizes.

[Elsbeth]

Well folks - I'm revisiting this old post to give an update on this for any future archive searchers who are looking to easily cut mat board like I was.

I looked at the mini table saw at micromark, but it was too pricey and the risk of rough edges was too high.

I tried the scalpels and they were indeed inexpensive and very sharp, but required more effort and precision that I was capable of. However, they are perfect for curved cuts and smaller cuts. So I am glad I tried this and I will use these for cutting details. I had trouble keeping the blade straight - even with a straight edge.

I tried the logan mat cutter system which is almost fool proof (it uses a guided rail for cutting) and good for large straight cuts, but hard to set up small pieces for me (1:24 and 1:48 scales especially). 

For me, the best tool was...a $79 swingline guillotine paper cutter with gorgeous  maple wood cutting board. It works like a charm, straight smooth cuts, grid to help guide, easy visibility of where I am cutting - I love it. I was able to cut all my pieces in minutes. No re-cutting, just easy peasy. My mat board is 1/16th. I noticed no warping or ragged edges. I'm off to make a 1:48 house from reduced 1:12 plans now! The cutter claims to be self-sharpening, but we'll see.