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Cozy reading roombox


mesp2k

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15 hours ago, havanaholly said:

How lovely!  I hear classical music.

 

5 hours ago, angt29 said:

Wow, looking great!  Did you stain the floor and wall wood already?  I like the worn look.

Thanks girls! :blush:

Angie - I just thinned some black paint, brushed it into the grooves, wiped off the excess, let it dry, then sanded.

Its just the beginning...

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Molding painted & dry fit

Almost finished with crown molding & chair rail - need to cut/fit them into the stairs.

Need to cut some 1/4 round - Amana router bit mm4110.

The top bead can be cut out to form a 1/12 scale 1" quarter round molding:

ttmm4110.jpg

 

Img_2000.thumb.jpg.f26544a5d9e2e849a2dddImg_2002.thumb.jpg.9eb349a9e0b5f71b2b9a2

The paint color of the stairs came out funky - so I'm showing the staircase version in B&W. 

 

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Done with coloring: walls, floor & stairs / wall - I like it !!

large.5917868c73202_floorandstairwallcol

I decreased the saturation in the photo because the lighting was turning everything orange. (compare previous post)

 

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Attaching the outer walls to the floor. 

This is underneath the roombox showing the screws counter-sunk into the floor joist. The insert is a cut-away side view. (in the upright position)

I use stainless steel screws to avoid rusting - brass screws strip to easily.

591b1e130fcc9_scrbasetowalls0.png.67e429

Making sure everything is secure, level & square before I work on fitting the stairs, stair wall & bookcase.

They will be screwed in from underneath the floor also.

Plus trimming the chair rail & crown to fit the stairs. All at once & all of it a bit tedious & slow going... :) but, getting there!

 

 

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1 hour ago, mesp2k said:

Attaching the outer walls to the floor. 

This is underneath the roombox showing the screws counter-sunk into the floor joist. The insert is a cut-away side view. (in the upright position)

I use stainless steel screws to avoid rusting - brass screws strip to easily.

591b1e130fcc9_scrbasetowalls0.png.67e429

Making sure everything is secure, level & square before I work on fitting the stairs, stair wall & bookcase.

They will be screwed in from underneath the floor also.

Plus trimming the chair rail & crown to fit the stairs. All at once & all of it a bit tedious & slow going... :) but, getting there!

 

 

I believe it would pass Florida's Hurricane code.

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5 hours ago, Sable said:

I believe it would pass Florida's Hurricane code.

Well, our chocolate lab is like a hurricane - so that's good - we passed max test - yay!

About the screws - they allow me to remove the walls while working on the roombox or later & let me knock it down for storage or shipping.

I think its safer when shipping flat.

 

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On 5/11/2017, 4:55:29, mesp2k said:

...analyzing why I like this photo: 

I noticed that the tufted lines of the chaise & its shape compliment the

stair wall planks & its triangular shape.

Don't get me started on the bookcase shelves, the books, louvers & steps.

It's a very pleasing combination of order and disarray.  Love it, in fact.

Jeanne

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Filling in the Bookcase

I printed these out from an internet photo of a library, then quickly trimmed them down & stuck them in the bookcase.

I made them less saturated using photo software. I'm kinda excited. :)

I'll glue a new set to poster board & trim the white edges from the tops. I'll add embossed lines (using a dried out ball point pen) in between each book.

I'll probably cut the books in smaller groups so I can fit them in behind the trim.

bookcase.thumb.png.ce10a36d67e0c816be860   book-background.jpg

Still thinking about the top edges?

To the right is the original photo of books from: Opelousas-Eunice Public Library

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Earlier I said I was making the 1/4 round molding using the mm4110 bit - well I must have been :cloud9: dreaming, 'cause I don't have that bit. :ohyeah:

I used the Trio corner round bit from the TR780 5-Piece Set.

591dc30d1e648_roundbitTRIO.png.e98498172

I took a 3/4" piece of poplar & routed 2 edges. Added up to about 6' of molding.

591dc707a0085_rdrm1_4rdmld.png.97dbbb467

 

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Stairs & landing finished.

Glued all the moldings - 1/4 rd & crown.

This is the rug design I will be using - this one is just printed on plain paper.

I want to try some other ideas.

Still need to do the shutters & the wall lamp.

And I'm working on the books right now...

591f8c94eca4d_moldingdone.thumb.png.cfd8

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10 hours ago, havanaholly said:

I'm looking forward to seeing how you do that chaise.

I tried making the seat out of wood - used a 1/2" drill bit to counter-sink (kinda like little craters) where the buttons sink in, then

used my X-acto miter saw to make the folds, (cut a line grid on the seat / down the front). I used various files/rasps to shape the wood.

Rethinking...might get out the Dremel flex extension thing. Or wrap some clay around a piece of wood then sculpt & cover with fabric?

Was planning on painting some small nails grey for the buttons. (or if I can glue fabric to the nail head & wrap it under?)

The wood trim & legs - walnut.

The bottom trim could be traced from the seat - kinda like a 1/8" layer - would also finish off tucked under fabric.

The tacks?? :hmm:

5920437526739_chaisecu.png.ecf57c7325171

Layers from the top - curvy back & arm; seat; trim; & legs.

 

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Seems to me that doing the chaise with cloth-covered foam upholstery on a wooden frame would be a whole lot easier, but I'm coming at it from a hand-sewer's perspective, not a woodworker's perspective. The bed I made for Peter (Gillman) is a  more rustic design, but true to the original.

 

 

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Like KathieB, I would make the legs, base & one side from wood and cut foam pieces to fit nd cover them with fabric, then use a thread & needle to do h tufting and then attach it to the finished base & side.

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For tufting a headboard I made a sandwich of the following:

Graph paper with predrawn points 

Balsa thin enough to get the needle through 

Foam

Suede fabric 

I went through each stitch twice with a needle and thread and a thimble.

 

image.jpeg

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I used lightweight cardstock with the tufting dots marked, then a piece of batt cut to match and then the fabric.  After the tufting was done (the thimble is a must for going through all the layers without including fingers) I trimmed the fabric excess and glued the edges to the card and then glued it all to the wood back.  It was the Real Life Victorian parlor chair & settee set, and my first venture into furniture kits and upholstering with old wide polyester neckties.

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I glued a printout of some books on to a wooden block,

then tried to cut the top edge/profile on a scroll saw - a bit rough - need to file. (gotta git my bandsaw fixed!) (or buy a very tiny belt sander?) :hmm:

I used an empty ballpoint pen to define the vertical edges of each book.

I would need to paint the top edge tan or something & the sides a similar color to the bindings (doesn't have to be exact.)

5921a66e9346f_bookblock.thumb.png.b04466

 

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8 minutes ago, havanaholly said:

Oh, well done!

Thanks!

It reminds me of a wooden basset hound I had as a child. (decoupage?)

I remember the edges started to chip & peel.

4735841.jpg

 

 

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Now if you reproduce that F-P Snoopy Sniffer in mini and put it in your roombox scene it would look like one of the houses we lived in when our kids were small!  They had one that went everywhere they went.

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Put up the fascia boards above the stairway crown molding & hung the oar. The frosted plexi above the stairs lets just enough light thru.

The oar is a dark wood with thinned black paint wiped on/off, then sanded here & there.

Can't see the carpet too well, but I printed it smaller/closer to the original photo.

Its inkjet printed on cloth, glued to poster board & the edges are colored with chalk - then everything is sealed.

59235e99781d2_oarrugfrosted.jpg.3ae221b1

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