Shingles

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Paint or stain.

.I have 2 colors of shingle stain, it looks like a messy job, or  I guess they could be  just painted after they are on though which gives more choice of colors I guess.

\Which is best please and why..thank you

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If it's dollhouse shingles, why not ask about it here: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/?app=forums&module=forums&controller=forums&id=41?  If you wait until the shingles are in place on the roof you need to be very careful to wipe off any glue residue with a damp rag, stain will not penetrate glue, and paint over glue will give a very different texture from paint over the bare shingle.

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Yep trust me to be in the wrong place. Could a mod kindly move this for me please..Thank you

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24 minutes ago, Jeannine said:

Paint or stain.

.I have 2 colors of shingle stain, it looks like a messy job, or  I guess they could be  just painted after they are on though which gives more choice of colors I guess.

\Which is best please and why..thank you

This might be an interesting and helpful read for you Jeannine:

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/roof-shingling-part-4

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Thank you Jodi, it sounds a little scary. I have several lots of shingles here as I have been collecting stuff for a few houses for some time. The shingles that came with my Sugarplum are  the thinnest of all, they seem to crumble if I so much as look at them. I bet they will warp.

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1 hour ago, Jeannine said:

Thank you Jodi, it sounds a little scary. I have several lots of shingles here as I have been collecting stuff for a few houses for some time. The shingles that came with my Sugarplum are  the thinnest of all, they seem to crumble if I so much as look at them. I bet they will warp.

I bet they would look very authentic on the woodcutter's cottage.

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Holly I am drop dead scared of doing this, wondering whether I should use some heavier ones. If I dye these I think they will crumble in the fluid..really nervous here

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I love the Greenleaf shingles that come in sheets, because I can stain them with a rag before installing them on the roof.

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Jeannine, I've taken the thin shingles and dumped them in shingle dye before, they were fine and dried beautifully. I've also applied them to the roof, then painted with diluted paint, also did fine. (be sure to paint the roof the same color first.) I actually prefer the thinner shingles, they aren't so bulky, and cut easier.

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I diluted paint to stain the shingles on the Laurel I rehabbed.  I had the same issues with that paint not covering the glue dribbles I discovered that way.

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Ready to start this now. I have opened the shingle and they are in sheets but only about 5 to a strip and many of the strips have separated.

I have two  glues  which  say wood glue in big letters on the bottle  but the first one also says multi purpose, it is a  Lepage but it says cleans up with water so I think that is no good. The second one  is also a Lepage and says wood glue in big letters but doesn't say anything about cleanup or multipurpose , it says NO MORE CLAMP, do not get in eyes etc so is very different from the first, smells different too. The first one look and smells the same as Aleenes Tacky, Is the second one suitable or should I go and buy something else. I still haven't decided whether to stain them first or paint them later..help. I am really scared to do this.

There is nothing in the instructions to tell me how to apply them so I presume I start at the bottom and work my way up and hope I can get the gable to line up too.

I think I will go and mix the stain.. boo hoo.

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Just looked on the Le page site and the second one is clean up with soap and water too.

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I use Probond or Titebond wood glues.  Wipe it up quick with a damp rag, I don't think anything takes it out of fabrics, so flush it fast with water and hope.  But it does a number on wood!  Yes,  start at the bottom edge and  work up.  I started doing Sable's suggestion of laying a strip of half shingles along the bottom edge of the roof and laying the shingles over that a much more realistic pitch.  Also, I start every other row with a shingle I cut in half vertically to give the staggered overlap.

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Thanks Holly, that makes sense, I don't know if I can get those glues here but I can try. I looked RGT site about dying shingles and it takes 5 days!! Maybe I can paint them before I put them on..oh what a muddle. The only houses I have ever done and it was many years ago had sheets of shingles like the siding and it went on as a piece..one had paper .

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I have good luck with Beacon Quick Grip for shingles because it does not curl the thin shingles. Another benefit is that unlike wood glues, you can apply stain marker or paint washes after and still get even coverage. No 5 day messy and smelly dying process. The drawback is that Quick Grip smells really bad, dries quick so you have to work fast with small amounts squeezed out only, and it is pricey. My last roof took 3 tubes. Here's the Amazon link so you can research a bit. Below that is a link to the stain markers I like to use. I'd buy two of those for a roof this size. I have found any kind of roofing is not cheap or easy to install or finish, but I am certainly no expert and can only share my experiences.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VA9ESS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DI7ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck my dear, I am rooting you on!

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RGT dye is mixed with water so the thin shingles will curl anyway. I wouldn’t recommend it for your shingles.

Miniwax type stains work best on the sheets. Don’t take them apart until after you apply the stain.

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Thank you Jodi, I will look into that.

Sable, thank you too, that is exactly what I was worried about as they are so very thin. The sheets are separated there is just  a few fastened together. I have a  part tin of Mini Wax left from doing a real size table  it says Early American  230 on it, would that be OK,So should I paint them on newspaper on a table then take them apart and put them on one at a time  and should I dilute the stain with anything. Or would I be better off to buy thicker ones, actually I do have them as I bought them for an  RGT house I haven't finished renovating, Sorry to be a pest.

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1 hour ago, Jeannine said:

I have a  part tin of Mini Wax left from doing a real size table  it says Early American  230 on it, would that be OK,So should I paint them on newspaper on a table then take them apart and put them on one at a time  and should I dilute the stain with anything.

I would not paint with the stain, nor would I dilute it.

  1. First of all I would stain the underroof, so there won't be any bits of raw wood peeking out later.
  2. Then, if there is enough stain in the can, I'd take two aluminum foil pans or bowls and punch holes in one of them. Put some of the shingles in the pan with the holes and put that pan into the one without holes. Pour in the stain and mix up the shingles to get them coated. Gently lift the top bowl up, letting the liquid stain run into the bottom bowl. Dump the wet shingles out on several thicknesses of newspaper to dry. They may curl, but will flatten out again as they dry. Or you may put a layer of waxed paper over them and lay on some heavy books or a board, etc., to help flatten them. Repeat as necessary to do all of the shingles.
  3. If there is not enough stain for the above method, I'd glue the shingles on to the stained underroof and then use a piece of old t-shirt or similar fabric folded into a small pad to dip into the stain and, with plastic gloves on to save fingers, rub the stain on. The smaller the pad of cloth the better, enough to take a charge of stain but not so large that it drinks most of the stain. The idea is to get the stain on the shingles, not into the cloth. :D Once the stain dries, it may be necessary to use a very small brush to touch up some edges

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Test your Miniwax color to see if that is the look you want.

Paper towel folded two inches wide, wipe the stain on, wait a few minutes then wipe any excess off with a clean towel. I wouldn’t do the dunking process with Miniwax stain on those thin shingles. Too much excess to wipe off.  

If you glue them on first the stain won’t take on any dried glue.

Another option is the tea, steel wool and vinegar recipe fr a silvery aged look. 

Cover a small piece of steel wool with vinegar in a jar overnight. Spread tea on the shingles, dry. Apply the vinegar solution. The tannins in the tea combine with the rusty vinegar solution to make a lovely aged look.

http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/?app=gallery&module=gallery&controller=view&id=122630

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Ok, so I tried the piece of paper towel on some scrap shingle and it was breaking even with the slightest  pressure and there was more stain in the towel than on the shingle. So I tried again with a  soft artists square shader  brush and that went on well, I left it just a wee while and blotted it. a little came off but not much. I dare not put these in any liquid  I know they will break. The color is OK maybe it could have been a bit redder but I could go and get some tomorrow. I think if I paint the roof then use the square shader I may be OK. I guess it is the nature of wood to be variable as it was quite pale  in some areas and the coat  I put on was quite generous

These tiles seem thinner than even veneer, much much thinner than any other tiles I have either in bags or on things.

 

Thank you again I am getting a bit more confident,

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37 minutes ago, Sable said:

 I wouldn’t do the dunking process with Miniwax stain on those thin shingles. Too much excess to wipe off.  

Good point! Dunking works better with dye.

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Jeannine, when I'm staining shingles in the sheets I lay them on a piece of waxed paper and use the folded bit of teeshirt to apply the stain in a gentle circular motion until the stain is in.  With the shingles flat I haven't had a problem with breakage.

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