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Appreciate your imput on paint


Thimble Hall

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This is solely my opinion. To me, acrylic is like a skin, latex is like a raincoat. Latex is plastic. It just sits on top of a surface unless a primer is applied first to give the surface some teeth to stick to. If you put latex on a piece of plastic, once dry, you can peel it off and it will have the texture of a balloon. Acrylic will bind more easily to the wood. Just my opinion.

 

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I find them to be almost interchangeable. I use leftover latex house paints when the color works. I generally prime with gesso. Any kind of paint will stick to gesso. (And gesso will stick to fingers, too. It even resists scrubbing with Lava soap. :D )

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I like the Liquitex brand too . I've also used the small craft bottles and have found that Delta Ceramcoat is the brand I like best .I use a lot of chalk paint only problem is you might want to seal the chalk paint. When I seal it I antique/white wash it at the same time . I have used  house paint but only on the outside of the house when I need a lot of paint. Looking forward to seeing your wagon.

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I prime with flat interior latex house paint and I paint with interior latex house paint and I have never had any of it peel off (or I wouldn't use it).  For fiddly bits I like to use acrylics.  I use my acrylic paints from the tubes and mix my own colors.

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They are both 'water' based paints, but usually latex mixes will have more vynil polymers in their composition making the surface more 'flexible'. Acrylic paints are usually a bit more 'transparent' so you'll need more than 1 layer of paint for a solid color finish. If you are painting over wood acrylic paint usually won't cover up the grain texture on the surface completly when dry. I like that kind of effect so I don't sand the surface smooth, but if you want a smooth surface you'll probably need to prime/sand more with acrylic paint. The best advantage, aside from the layering possibilities, is that acrylic paint is generally more durable than latex over a long period of time. Both of them are less durable than oil based paints however, and highly susceptible to solvents, even if you apply a protective coat of varnish on top. The disadvantage of this I found is when cleaning I will usually remove more pigment from underneath the varnish coating from an acrylic layer, even with a very mild solvent. To be frank all materials have their pros and cons, so in the end it's a matter of personal preference more than anything else. I have been using acrylic paint for several years now so I feel more confortable working with those, but I also like the acrylic paints with a bit of vynil in their composition for wood surfaces.

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4 hours ago, Mineejv said:

I have gesso and never thought to use it on my window frames (and stair case)to get a smooth look. I’ve already painted them so can I use the gesso and paint them again?

You can use gesso as a primer.

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30 minutes ago, havanaholly said:

You can use gesso as a primer.

I have also used slightly thickened gesso as a rough (but not textured) unpainted plaster finish, a sort of rustic look. (Marie Laveau's cottage)

The water based gesso can be thinned for undercoating. If left in an uncovered container for a period of time so some of the water can evaporate, the gesso will thicken.

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The reason I asked is that I bought good quality latex paints for my caravan and I am finding it troublesome on some parts, Everything was primed but it still raised the grain, It worked  well when doing large pieces like the main parts but when  I was painting lots of small arils it was drying so fast;ike the spokes in wheels  I could bot get it  smooth. It didn't seem to flow like an  art paint either so I seemed to be dabbing at it all the time. I feel I want to strip it off many of the small pieces as they don't look smooth

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I use a water-based acrylic paint (interior house paint, not craft paint) because I can get it in 60 mil (about 2 1/2 ounces) test pots and in any color I want. One pot will do the walls of a smaller room with 2 coats if applied with a small foam roller. I can't get the colors I want in any other paint option. Sanding is no problem as long as it properly dry. Since I use MDF for my houses, raised grain is not a problem. It could be on plywood though. But one undercoat (same paint) and bit of a sand seems to take care of it.

Edited by Annagr
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Well I tried covering the latex house paint with an acrylic but it was no good one one on top on the other and I think the whole lot was a terrible mess so I have spent the last three days stripping my caravan down to the bare wood again and I am going to Michaels to buy new paint shortly

 

PS Thank you all so much for your help

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Oh missed that one but I managed to get 40 off. I bought a packed box of 20 paints so I made it work.

My whole house is now full of dust and tiny flakes of paint. I had to scalpel most of it off, then sand the remaining layer, so back to square one but actually I am glad I did it. The bead and board I planned to put on it hadn't arrived after alost a month so I went ahead and decided to do it without. I regretted that and just as I was half way through getting it back to bare wood the timber arrived..so it was meant to be. I didn't strip the wheels etc but I di lightly sand them and with a new coat of new stuff on top I think they will be fine.

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