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How to place shingls on your roof


Bob Hood

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Everyone probably already knows this trick, but i never did it before and it came out perfect

 

Dollhouse Roofing

1. Lay your ruler* so that the mark for 1" lines up on the bottom edge of the roof. Hold your ruler so it lines up with the edge of the roof. Rotate the ruler as shown, until the top of the roof lines up with the next inch mark (in this case 8"). Now draw marks on the roof at each inch line on your ruler. Now move the ruler to the right edge of the roof again lining up the same numbers on the top and bottom (in the example, 1" and 8"). Draw marks on this side of roof. tt_roof5.jpg
2. Using a thin, straight strip of wood (a yard stick works very well) place the bottom edge of the stick on the first mark on each side. Use push pins or thumb tacks to hold it in place. tt_roof6.jpg
3. Place a bead of glue** (Aleene'sTM or Elmer'sTM) along the bottom edge of the roof, and just below the wood alignment strip. Starting on one end, place a shingle against the alignment strip and overlapping the edge of the roof by about 1/8". Continue placing shingles across the entire width of the roof. If the last shingle is too large, you may make it narrower by either cutting it or just break it between your fingers. tt_roof7.jpg
4. When the first row is done, move the alignment strip up to the next set of marks on your roof. Run a bead of glue along the top edge of row of shingles you just placed on the roof, and another bead just below the alignment strip. Snap a shingle in half lengthwise (with the grain) to obtain a narrow shingle. Start the second row with this half width shingle so the joints don’t line up with the previous row. tt_roof_.gif
5. Continue up the roof in the same manner remembering to alternate full and half shingles for starting the row so that you avoid having the joints line up. The easiest way to finish off the roof is to use a ridge board. This is a board in the shape of a “V” or a right angle which can be glued to the top of the roof to give a finished look. tt_roof0.gif
* If the shingles you are using are shorter than 1” then you must make a special ‘ruler’ that has lines closer together. e.g. If you are using “Classic” pattern shingles with a 3/4” exposure, then make a ‘ruler’ that has lines every 3/4”. Use this in step 1 the same as a regular ruler. This will give even divisions for the smaller exposure.  
**If you prefer to use a solvent glue (QuickGripTM) apply it to the back of each shingle as you place the shingle on the roof. Do not put beads of glue on the roof as it dries too quickly.  
To simulate SLATE roofing, we use a material that is made of MDF and machined/embossed to look like shingles. Then we cover it completely with black wax shoe polish (Kiwi, Esquire,etc) and buff it with a brush until it shines. Then sprinkle baby power over the roof, and brush off the extra. Actually looks quite good.  
Thatching (still working on a good way) Use coconut fiber. The color and size is about right.  
   
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In step 3-I never place a 1/8” overhang on a roof. Just begging for future breakage and chips. I always line it up with the roof line.

Also, an important step should be added:

Depending on the slope/pitch of the roof, the first row should be done twice. The first part of the first row consist of cutting the tiles by 1/4 or 1/2 depending on the pitch of the roof. Glue those pieces to the edge. The second part of the first layer is to place a full tile on top of the first layer. Proceed onto the second row. If you don’t do this procedure the second row will stick up and not lay flat against the first row and will forever bug you.

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Thanks Sable......That's some good advise.  The double first row is exactly what you do when you put on real shingles.

I really like the interaction on this site.  I look forward to each new topic.

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Oh Oh...I sure hope the "shingle police" don't come to my house.  Unfortunately I'm impatient and soooooo the ONLY thing I mark is 1" from the edge of the bottom of the roof and that is where I glue my first row of shingles. Oh yes siree bob they do overhang.  I continue along the whole row. From there on in I "eyeball" the rows. I've done the Harrison and Garfield that way and can't see anything wrong with them.  When I come to an "angle" I cut both sides at the same time...Here is a picture of the Garfield verandah showing the first row.

 

 

001.JPG

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"Shingle police"?  Uh-oh, am I in trouble!  Until I first read Sable's original post about the double layer on the first row I didn't do it, either.   The last time we had our RL house in Havana shingled, those roofers didn't do it, either (of course, the shingles started at the bottom edges of the sides of our house and went around a substantial curve and up two levels before meeting at the peak), since it looked like this:  https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=unicoi+state+park+cabins&id=C005FD9AD9CDD64EF1401E8354045E42A4E28D62&FORM=IARRTH

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Good Morning Holly...........Not to offend the fur babies out there, but seems to be many ways to skin the you know what.

I don't have as much experience as a lot of members, however, i enjoy experimenting and repurposing things.

Thank God for spellcheck or i wouldn't be able to participate at all.   

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Hi John........I am sure you are right.  I kept this in my notebook from a number of years ago. Worked the first time for me.

A number of years ago I captured  how to from all over the net. I use a three inch binder for my notes and how to reference.

 

 

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Tom Berkner also had a thatching tutorial on the EarthNTree Website.  My best take-away of his was to add an equal measure of white glue to the Majic Brik and water slurry to make a more stable product that wouldn't flake off years later,

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