How to scale custom furniture correctly

[Shareb]

This apothecary shop really is quite a huge project.  I'm really going to have to break it down and concentrate on one thing at a time.  I've made a few sketches of the layout of the shop.  Probably the most major and important part of the shop is the cabinetry at the back.  Going off the photos of the set that I have, it appears that there are matching cabinets with shelving on either side.  Then in the middle there is an opening  which can be walked into with drawers on either side.  In the middle in the top I THINK there is curtaining with some sort of decoration in front.  I THINK I can see curtaining behind some of the bottles on the shelves on either side too.  Then of course there is an aligator hanging in front and moving stairs on each side.  I've made a sketch of this - I think this will probably be quite tricky to get right.

So, I have a few questions.  1) I'm guessing I'll use a mix of wood and card to make this.  Is one better than the other?  What would you use?  2) I'm thinking that for the decorative panels I'll cut them out in card.  My problem when I look closely however is that the pattern is inset rather than proud.  Does that mean I should cut out the ouside and glue that on rather than the inside?  If that makes sense??  I mean, how am I best to make these panels???  3) My thought is that I build the house in a dry run and take loads of measurements then.  Then I can mash out how big this cabinetry should be.  Does that work?  Without having an actual layout of the shop there are parts that I am guessing about.  Am I better to somehow take measurements and then use them to scale the cabinet - would that work better than by eye alone? 

I had thought to do the flooring first and paint all the walls of the shop before assembling.  I thought the floors would be parquay as it seems like most French floors of that time are - but looking at the photo the flooring of the shop is just plain wood.  Should I do that first?  So dry-fit, take measurements and mark where the walls sit.  Then do the flooring, paint everything etc.  Then maybe partially build so that I can fit out the shop downstairs before assembling further?  I know I can do this, but I feel that it needs to be done in some sort of order.

[WyckedWood]

Just my two cents. I would release the restrictions that it has to be exactly like this. That’s just me personally. Some things are not possible in dollhouse scale, within the space we have to work with. I would go more for catching the vibe of the scene and coming close, definitely the color scheme can be accomplished. And many elements but maybe not an exact replica. 

I would start with the floor, and then get the counter in there, because that’s an important element then see where you’re at space wise. 

 

[Sable]

I can tell you for certain that old french floors are wide oak. I got these floors from England and they are a true representation of old French floors:

 

[Shareb]

30 minutes ago, Sable said:

I can tell you for certain that old french floors are wide oak. I got these floors from England and they are a true representation of old French floors:

 

Oh okay....it's just most of the Parisian apartments that I've looked at have parquay!  Are these that you used the iron on strips?

 

[Mid-life madness]

2 hours ago, WyckedWood said:

Just my two cents. I would release the restrictions that it has to be exactly like this. That’s just me personally. Some things are not possible in dollhouse scale, within the space we have to work with. I would go more for catching the vibe of the scene and coming close, definitely the color scheme can be accomplished. And many elements but maybe not an exact replica. 

I would start with the floor, and then get the counter in there, because that’s an important element then see where you’re at space wise. 

 

I think Karin has good advice.

Have you seen miniature versions of the shop from the movie Chocolat or Monica's apartment from friends? These are really close, but not exactly.

[Debsrand56]

Love the links, Carrie! I agree with the others that an exact replica is not necessary.  A dry fit with measurements is a good place to start. I usually spend a lot of time planning with graph paper or just using the shapes in Word. When I am designing furniture, I'll start with measurements, then draw out the piece to  scale in Word. Often I'll adjust things based on how the design looks to me, then I'll print it out, cut it out and look at in the space and make more adjustments. Once it's drawn to my satisfaction, I know the sizes of the pieces I need to cut to build it.  Card would be fine if you are painting. I think that's what MikeUK uses, and his stuff is gorgeous.

[Shareb]

5 hours ago, WyckedWood said:

Just my two cents. I would release the restrictions that it has to be exactly like this. That’s just me personally. Some things are not possible in dollhouse scale, within the space we have to work with. I would go more for catching the vibe of the scene and coming close, definitely the color scheme can be accomplished. And many elements but maybe not an exact replica. 

Yes, you could be right.  We'll see.....    I'd like to get it as near as possible.....

2 hours ago, Mid-life madness said:

I think Karin has good advice.

Have you seen miniature versions of the shop from the movie Chocolat or Monica's apartment from friends? These are really close, but not exactly.

To be fair I think that there is too much in the actual set to get right in miniature.  I'd already decided that, for example, I won't be putting as much on the counter as is in the pictures.  I guess getting it as close as possible is the huge challenge of this project.  As I go on, no doubt I'll be coming back and telling you that you were all right!

Thanks for the links....I will have to look for the Chocolat movie pics so that I can see the similarities.  The Friends apartment is pretty cool!

1 hour ago, Debsrand56 said:

Love the links, Carrie! I agree with the others that an exact replica is not necessary.  A dry fit with measurements is a good place to start. I usually spend a lot of time planning with graph paper or just using the shapes in Word. When I am designing furniture, I'll start with measurements, then draw out the piece to  scale in Word. Often I'll adjust things based on how the design looks to me, then I'll print it out, cut it out and look at in the space and make more adjustments. Once it's drawn to my satisfaction, I know the sizes of the pieces I need to cut to build it.  Card would be fine if you are painting. I think that's what MikeUK uses, and his stuff is gorgeous.

No matter how carefully I try to do things, I seem to mis-measure or not cut squarely.  I think it's a really good idea to use paper first!  That's how I've done a few things on my Pierce.  I wonder what thickness of card I should use.....

[havanaholly]

I'm the one who cuts iron-on wood veneer for floors.  I make a lot of my own furniture and fixtures to fit the spaces I have and for a new construction I do a scale sketch on 1/4" grid paper and use that for a pattern, then do a mock up in card.  I would make the carcases for the shelving and drawers and reproduce them in 1/8" obeche/ basswood.  I like tongue-blade size craft sticks for shelves.  I would use mat board in 1/8" and 1/4" thicknesses for the paneling, since you can cut it to bevel nicely with a razor sharp hobby knife blade or scalpel, after you've traced/ transferred your fancy openings onto it.  You can make your little drawer fronts from either matboard or wood.  I would not make them opening, but that's me.

[Sable]

8 hours ago, Shareb said:

Oh okay....it's just most of the Parisian apartments that I've looked at have parquay!  Are these that you used the iron on strips?

 

I purchase the large sheets of it which have the adhesive attached on the bottom. This site has the wide oak planks:

http://www.superior-dollhouse-miniatures.com/dollhouse-hardwood-flooring/21440-flooring-red-oak.html

Parquet was used in very wealthy homes and probably not used as a shop floor. This is one of my favorite paintings from the Musée d’Orsay In Paris:

https://mobile.greatbigcanvas.com/view/floor-planers-by-gustave-caillebotte-1875-musee-dorsay-paris-france,2100756/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImNjjw6e_3AIVER2BCh2tfw0JEAQYAiABEgI3RPD_BwE

[Debsrand56]

8 hours ago, Shareb said:

I wonder what thickness of card I should use.

I would probably use mat board (or I think they sometimes call it mount card?).  It's the material they use around a picture or photo when it's matted and framed.  It's generally around 1/16 of an inch thick.  It's relatively sturdy but still easy to cut.

[Shareb]

14 hours ago, havanaholly said:

I'm the one who cuts iron-on wood veneer for floors.  I make a lot of my own furniture and fixtures to fit the spaces I have and for a new construction I do a scale sketch on 1/4" grid paper and use that for a pattern, then do a mock up in card.  I would make the carcases for the shelving and drawers and reproduce them in 1/8" obeche/ basswood.  I like tongue-blade size craft sticks for shelves.  I would use mat board in 1/8" and 1/4" thicknesses for the paneling, since you can cut it to bevel nicely with a razor sharp hobby knife blade or scalpel, after you've traced/ transferred your fancy openings onto it.  You can make your little drawer fronts from either matboard or wood.  I would not make them opening, but that's me.

I've not tried the iron on floors before, although I do have some in my stash.  Does mat board stick nicely against the wood without pulling away?  I'm certainly not going to make opening drawers - there are far too many of them and they're in shadow in the back anyway.

 

11 hours ago, Sable said:

I purchase the large sheets of it which have the adhesive attached on the bottom. This site has the wide oak planks:

http://www.superior-dollhouse-miniatures.com/dollhouse-hardwood-flooring/21440-flooring-red-oak.html

Parquet was used in very wealthy homes and probably not used as a shop floor. This is one of my favorite paintings from the Musée d’Orsay In Paris:

https://mobile.greatbigcanvas.com/view/floor-planers-by-gustave-caillebotte-1875-musee-dorsay-paris-france,2100756/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImNjjw6e_3AIVER2BCh2tfw0JEAQYAiABEgI3RPD_BwE

Thanks for that Sable.  I think I'll use the wood I have here even though it's not oak.  In the pictures the floor is quite dark - obviously very well used!!  Love the painting!  I know very, very little about 18C France so happy for all this info!

 

[havanaholly]

You can add a couple of drops of India ink to isopropyl alcohol to get that lovely patina of age on your oak floors.  also a touch of sanding here & there will give them a lovely scuffed, "used" look.

[Shareb]

2 hours ago, havanaholly said:

You can add a couple of drops of India ink to isopropyl alcohol to get that lovely patina of age on your oak floors.  also a touch of sanding here & there will give them a lovely scuffed, "used" look.

Thanks for that!!!!  I'll have a go with it!  Do you put it on before or after polyurethane?

[KathieB]

3 hours ago, Shareb said:

Thanks for that!!!!  I'll have a go with it!  Do you put it on before or after polyurethane?

Before. Consider it a kind of stain. It needs to soak into the wood. Also, consider whether or not you want to put any polyurethane on it. Aged, scuffed, flooring probably wouldn't have a nice surface. Try scrubbing the stained wood with a crumpled paper bag for a soft, satiny finish.

Also, do try it on some scrap wood to see if you like the effect. It may be a bit grayer than what you're aiming for.

[Shareb]

Thanks for that Kathie - I will definitely do that.  I'm a little disappointed.  Just did a dry fit of the shop - it's pretty easy to slot together and seems like a nice kit.  HOWEVER, not only has he sent me the wrong door, they've also sent the wrong windows and window decorations etc.  I hope he hasn't already sent the door....

Not sure what I'll do about the attic....it's not tall enough to stand in but could potentially be used to dry herbs etc.  Not sure if they would have used the attic?

[havanaholly]

Possibly make it into a loft and put the apothecary's sleeping area there along with the drying herbs and extra jars?