How To Build a Jig for Making Woodframing Studs
Be aware that the boards being cut into studs will lie flush with the guides. If you're not comfortable cutting studs this way, you can either overlay each part with a 2nd layer of boards cut identically to the first set, or use a thicker board (3/16" or 1/4" thick instead of 1/8").
What you will need:
A board or block of wood at least 12 inches long and 2 inches wide
A craft or modeler's saw
A miter box or something to make squared, 90 degree cuts
30 inches of 1/8" X 3/8" boards, with at least one 12" and one 10" in length
* 1/8" X 1/4" board.
*The best candidate that I could find for a block was a scrap piece of 1" X 2" board.
Unfortunately, it is more like 1" X 1.5", so I had to make one slight modification, which I'll mention
1. Cut the length of the block down to 12 inches.
2. From one end of the block viewing the broad side, measure and score it at the 9 3/4" mark
on the left side and 10" on the right (see marks in photo 1). Make sure the marks are at least
3. From the top end of the block, measure 1" and mark it. This mark should be about 1 1/4" from
the first mark (that was made at 9 3/4"). This will be a 1" guide for the spacer portion of the jig.
4. Next, cut two planks from a 1/8" X 3/8" board, the 1st is 12" long and the other is 10". These will
be the guides for the boards being cut into studs.
The parts were photographed upside down from the instructions (SORRY!)
5. Glue the 12" board along the left side of the block.
6. Glue the 10" board along the right side. It is best to use masking tape so the boards don't slip
out of alignment with the edge of the block.
7. Cut a board that spans the width of the block from the left side guide to the far right
edge of the block, and glue it onto the block on the inside edge of the 1" guide mark.
8.. Cut a piece of 1/8" X 3/8" board at 7/8" and glue it directly against the left guide in the corner
between the 1" guide and the 9 3/4" mark.*
9. Cut a piece of 1/8" X 3/8" that will fit when installed across from the previously installed part
across the block at the 10" mark and glue it against the top of the 10" guide.
After the glue has dried and tape is removed, your jig will be ready to use.
* Because my block was not the standard 2" that the instructions call for, the images will differ from this point. If you have a block cut by mathematically challenged carpenters, follow the instructions starting after image 2.
Cut a 2nd board that spans the block from the right side of the left guide to the right edge of the block. Glue it directly above the 10" mark. It should rest against the top of the 10" guide.
Cut a 1/8" X 1/4" board short enough that there is just over 3/8" space between the end of the part and the 10" guide. Glue it down in the upper left corner between the 9 3/4" mark and previously installed part. When cutting jack studs, the board will exceed the width of this part, but it won't affect the cuts as long as the board doesn't move while cutting.
I'm definitely not much of an instructor, so if this doesn't make sense, do let me know.